Simon

It will be happy with either on the plugin as it is fitted with drives for peak and hold.

With luck on of the dealers might help out on these settings. We haven't done one inhouse so can't offer much advice on what settings will be required. If you search S54 in the help file it will give you as much info as we have.

At the point this happens are you seeing any other effects like a miss fire?

The 12 tooth combined with a cam sync will be the way to go. Saves on the ECU having to decode the missing tooth on a 12-1

Check the grounds to the ECU are in good shape as the earthing of the injectors has to be done through these. Also check the injector settings to make sure they are set correctly, saturated if high impedance and peak and hold if low impedance, Check the peak and hold currents too. The fact they flash indicates the hardware of the ECU is ok.

This indicates that either the inputs are at a voltage level below the fault settings for example a short to ground. Or it could be they are not connected and have not been turned off or it could be the error / fault settings are incorrect. I assume you have a plugin unit. What model Subaru?

Coils should not get hot with key on engine not running. However the normal spark edge for almost all applications is falling (dwell edge would be rising) This could be an indication of another issue such as no igniter in the circuit. The coils you have are they 2 or 3 wire?

Sounds like the ECU is seeing a false RPM reading causing the RPM limit to activate and the ignition trim is coming in due to the limit being hit. In a good set up the RPM reading should not be doing this at cranking or engine stop. What trigger set up are you using?

Hi Levon you can pick up a 5V from the TPS feed. Or the XS loom does make it easy. The OMP is a hard one you can change an axis to %ethanol but really you need RPM and load also. So I cant see a way around that unless when running E85 adding it as a pre mix.

1. The Nissan Plugin G4 RB20DET 440cc.pcl will be a good map to start from. 2. In theory the main input is the amount of air entering the engine. Block off the air supply and the engine RPM will drop. The fuel and ignition settings will have an effect along with idle speed control.

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If you have a way of keeping an eye on the mixtures as long as you don't go to lean or excessive rich you will be ok. And of course don't go thrashing the pants off it. Just use light throttle light load.

If you know the size of the original injectors you can do a calculation to work out the percentage change in size and then adjust the Master fuel by that percentage. So if you go 25% bigger the master will need to be reduced by 25% and this will get you very close assuming no other changes have been made. I would suggest leaving a bit of a buffer and only reduce master to a level that leaves thing a little rich.

The risk with a 60-2 wheel is that it can limit the RPM as you have seen. This is due to some sensors nor responding correctly when the gap goes past. Causing a tooth to be missed. If you have the option of a machined wheel I would go for a wheel with 24 teeth all even spaced and no gap. If going for the 60-2 having the gap part filled like in the link below will help. http://www.linkecu.com/products/Install ... mage_large

8Volts on this application will be spot on.

It will depend on what the ECU came off. Do you know what it was on before? If it was not a Nissan engine then it will need to come back to us to swap the sub-board. For pricing this you will need to contact [email protected]

The plugin has all grounds as per factory wiring.

I assume you are talking about the PWC adapter by Riva racing. If this is the application you will need to talk with Riva as they created the adapter inhouse. If you need the pinout for the V88 that is available in the VTS help file.

Woops I got the wrong header, I was refering to the Short header. On yours being the Long header you should check pin 45 for 12V at key on and pin 16 for ground at key on. When pin 16 is at ground pins 49 and 59 should get 12V

On the board there is a (very small) LED that will indicate if the ECU is powering up. If this is not coming on with the key it shows the ECU is not getting power. There are a couple of pins to check., Pin 36 should have 12V at key on this then lets the ECU switch a ground to pin 4 If pin 4 is not pulling to ground it will not power the ECU. If Pin 36 is not getting 12V it will not switch the ground for pin 4

Have you been able to connect in the past? The ECU should be visible in device manager even with the ECU power off. Are you getting a green LED lighting up when key is on on the ECU?

If starting a tune go to the very latest. Download PC link and perform a firmware update. This will be the very latest and is by far the best firmware to start from.

E Throttle set up and then in the EThrottle mode window. You will have the options of Off, On and On - Setup.

Check the dead times have been set as these will have a massive effect at low opening times.

Assuming this is a G1 unit has it been configured to suit the application? The G1 units require the correct sub-board to be fitted to match the application. What engine is this being run on?