Simon

Have got the email and have made a couple of slight changes. For you to try.

Ill make the assumption the audi coil has a built in igniter. So all you will need to do is bypass the factory igniter. And check your dwell times are ok for the new coils.

No the 12 volt goes to one side of the solenoid the other side to an AUX out. The DI is a signal in from the cam sensor. On the TPS one wire is an on off switch which is not used.

It is hard to tune the ignition so most don't use the 4D and span the main table off MAP. As the ignition timing is not changing much in the off boost section of the map. You could then to refine it use the 4D table based on TPS.

The 4D is a trim on top of the main table and it allows trims based on other inputs. In this case the main table is based on TPS and then the trim would be in MGP giving two load inputs. This allows for the fact that TPS is not a true load indication but it is need as on multi butterfly applications the MAP signal is not stable.

You will need a single tooth on the cam.

If you don't want sequential fuel you can go without the cam sensor.

The inputs are feedback to the factory system these are not used in our case. The crank connects to trigger 1. It is a reluctor sensor and will need a ground to one side and the other to the trigger polarity is critical (toyota normally have all the ground common across all 3 sensors) Trigger 2 should be wired to the intake cam sensor. The exhaust cam is wired to a DI The VVT control solenoids will need a 12V supply and an a signal from Aux out. .

The ECU will need to see boost so you can add compensation if needed. As the fuel calculation takes in to account MAP it will do some correction automatic. If more is required (usually is) then you use the 4D table to correct the fuel. Ignition is the same but there is no correction unless you add a 4D table based off MAP or MGP.

This is correct, But at key off the Relay should not have power to it and so should then not switch on. For the injector issue check your peak and hold currents. And that you have no ballast resistors fitted. If the current settings are too low or ballastes are fitted you will get no injection.

Sharing the crank / cam sensors is normally no problem at all. If it running a reluctor style there are no changes to a conventional configuration. If it uses Hall or Opto you will need to be sure to leave the pullups off in the ECU. The other catch is that the trigger pattern will need to be one that is supported. Also be aware the factory system will likely do all it can to shut things down if it thinks it is seeing too much airflow or boost.

Depends on if you want to run sequential fuel and individual coils. For either you will need a sync off the cam as well.

It could be the solenoid wiring as it operates in a push pull fashion so getting the wiring incorrect will cause issues. I also assume you have removed the diodes out of the circuit refer to the info in the help file.

Hi Vasilis That's a very general request is there a particular area you require help with?

You have a back feed issue. Avoiding Auxiliary Output Back-feeding A large number of technical inquiries are received regarding problems due to incorrect wiring of auxiliary outputs. Incorrect wiring of solenoids and relays to auxiliary outputs can result in the following symptoms: · ECU not powering down when the key is turned off. · Accessories such as engine fans coming on when the key is turned off. · Repeated clicking of relays when the key is turned off (machine gun sound!). · ECU draining the battery over a few days. The root cause of these problems is the wiring of hot fed (direct from the battery positive terminal) or ACC fed (key in accessory position) solenoids or relays to ECU auxiliary outputs. Each auxiliary output basically consists of a low side driver and flywheeling diode. A low side driver is a power transistor that can switch a load to ground. Flywheeling diodes are required for the driving of fast switching devices such as ISC solenoids and VVT solenoids. Flywheeling diodes are also essential for reducing radio interference noise. Unfortunately, the placement of flywheeling diodes means that if power is applied to auxiliary outputs through a solenoid or relay when the ECU is powered down current will flow through the flywheeling diode causing the ECU to power back up. As solenoids have some resistance, the current that flows back into the ECU (back feeds) is not usually enough to power the ECU up properly resulting in the ECU powering up and down continuously. This causes unusual behavior by the offending solenoid and possibly other solenoids as its current is switched on and off. This does not apply to Auxiliary Ignition or Auxiliary Injection outputs as they do not have flywheeling diodes fitted. For that reason solenoids that require flywheeling can not be wired to these drives without an external flywheeling diode fitted. This will only usually apply to ISC solenoids. This problem will not occur on loads wired to be High Side driven. Engine fan relays are often fed from the ACC circuit. These should be wired to non flywheeled outputs such as Ignition or Injection channels. Alternatively their power supply should be changed to one that is disconnected when the ignition switch is turned off.

Pattern is the same on all but each is geared for a different cam offset to the crank. We have been working on confirming which is correct. As we have had 3 different sets of figures from three different people. Currently it seems that V2 is the most often used.

You will need a crank trigger if the cam one is just the factor one. Crank triggers will give more accurate timing.

I would get some resistive plugs in there. Once tuned you can swap back.

Good to go

The displayed are the arming voltage for the given RPM. So if you are between a zone with 2v and the next with 3v then it will display 2.5V if you were exactly half way between.

Once you select GP PWM on an AUX out it will appare at the bottom of the AUX outputs menu.

From the link plus it should be a purple wire.Â

Its not the throttle sticking and not returning to its idle position? If you give the throttle a big short stab and then release is it the same as a gentle press?

This should help with the igniter wiring. http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/technical-drawings/I08 For the TPS you will have a power, a ground, a variable signal, and a on off switch (0 or 5V) http://s3.amazonaws.com/2cp-images/question_images/126331/large.jpg E2 being - Ground VTA is the TPS signal Vcc is 5V

I suspect you have ECU hold power active, Anti-theft or Duel ECU. All of these will lock out the RPM. Check you digital inputs, and if using hold power make sure the DI responds correctly to the key position.