Simon

You can not use the 1gg board as it will give an incorrect RPM reading for a 4 cylinder. If you want to run distributor the switch settings will need to be the reverse 2&3 off and 1&4 on.

You could leave it like that. Just make sure it is only grounded at one point.

Would need about a 10K resistor, the solid state relay would be fine to do a PWM control.

You could use a 5V external pullup on an aux out to switch the MOSFET. Or you can also use a solid state relay.

That will be enough to get it running. The LS coils can take more dwell than most and at 14volts could be 4ms happily. Is the RPM reading nice and stable?

Same trigger pattern but one is for a 6 cylinder, the sub24new is for four cylinder applications. If 3-channel ignition is being used (6-cylinder wasted-spark or 2-rotor engines) then these DIP switches MUST be set as: 1 = OFF 2 = ON 3 = ON 4 = OFF

I would expect it to be nice and stable. Might be an indication of some bad earths.

The map limit in our ECU is an absolute reading so 100kpa is atmosphere 200kpa is one bar of boost (15psi) So if your limit is at 240 it should be well clear. I suspect there might be some other issue causing a miss fire. Fuel supply or ignition.

An interesting idea I will pass it on to engineering.

Does the 3D image not cover this? If you want to check row by row you can turn 3D off.

Any 5V regulator will do the trick no need for any thing grunty one able to do 500mA will be more than enough

We can work with any map sensor, worst case you might need to use a custom cal for it. The best is to pick a sensor close to the pressure you are likely to go to. This will give the best resolution from the sensor. The GM 3 bar sensor is the most common with in the after market ECU industry so will likely be easy to get.

Fitted to all EVO 9's now, So as long as the dealer needs to get one in it will be a V88 based one.

I'm not sure what you mean?

It is a custom protocol that is unfortunately not a match for any of those. All the layout of the protocol can be found in the VTS help file.

It looks very much like the codes have never been cleared. I would start by clearing all the error codes, then wait to see if they start to reappear. If they do then there is a very high likely hood of a wiring issue. Most common one is the 5 or 8V outs being shorted to ground.

Yes there is now a V88 based topboard that is now fitted to a number of the plugins. It offers more inputs and outputs along with knock.

Do you have a Dash connected to the serial port? If so make sure it is unpluged at the ECU end. Also check in device manager to see if the ECU is being recognised and if it is assigning a com port number. I have also emailed you a link to some pre release firmware/software to try.

Some times if there is noise of the supply it will cause the unit to malfunction. Try powering the unit direct from a battery and see if it does the same.

You might be able to set an AUX out to GP PWM and use a pullup to 5V to give a average voltage based on the duty cycle. But really fitting a gauge sender is likely to be the better option.

Is it flashing red with engine running or has it not yet been started?

Looking at those figures your offsets need to be LH cam 60 RH cam 146

On factory ECU or ours? If on ours this could be due to back feeding. In some cases if an output device gets power it can feed back to the ECU and cause it to stay powered up.

On the plugin pin 82 sees 12V and in turn activates a ground to pin 38 Via a transistor. The ECU then powers up off pins 12 and 25

Should be no problem to calibrate with out the spring and then reinstall. The calibration is only setting up the voltage points for fully open and closed on the TPS Main and Sub. The test will be if the motor draws too much current when the spring is reinstalled it will cause the e throttle to shut down.