Simon

We fire drives 1 and 2 up to the point the secondaries come on and then its 1+3, 2+4

I think the basics of that is that you ahve to be sure to cut the Primary and secondary injectors for a rotor at the same time. If you only cut one it will of course give a very lean condition.

The arming voltages should be about half the peak voltage. In thins case the signal is nice and strong so you can run high arming voltages I would suggest start at 1V and work up to about 5V In theory if the trigger signals had no noise on them you could run a 0.2 arming voltage all the way.

The ECU primes the fuel pump at power up for 3 seconds by switching to ground on the control wire. You can manually power the pump by providing a ground to the fuel pump control wire, this should turn on the relay and activate the pump.

See if it is the idle speed or some other issue. I would suggest disabling the ISC. See if the idle is stable, drive the car and see if you get the same thing. It could be a lean surge and the idle speed control is just chasing the surge.

No problem at all to deal with ITBs Typically you will configure the ECU to have its main fuel table tuned on TPS and use a 4D overlay table spanned on MGP to compensate for changes in VE with boost. I would suggest if you can make it to the Xtreme it will give a better result as it can then run sequential fuel. And allow for slight trimming of cylinders if the ITB's are not set spot on.

Hi Steve Do you have any device connected on the CAN port? If so unplug this at the ECU plug.

Hi You are going to need to change to another igniter type. This sort that you have is geared to control the dwell and is not compatible with being driven from an ECU. I'm assuming you are using wasted spark coils? If you wanted to retain single channel igniter the J121 igniter of early 90's mazdas could be used. Or we can do a 3 channel for you.

You might have to manually delete the vipec folder off the drive and then reinstall the new version. Often the uninstall function in windows will leave bits behind.

At crank you might see a bit of movement in the timing but once engine fires it should be stable. The critical bit is getting rid of the trigger errors. What do you have for a cam sync? One thing to avoid is having the cam sync happening on top of a tooth on the crank. It is best to have the sync tooth between crank teeth.

Hi Mark I'm not up to speed with all the AIM offerings but im sure AIM will be able to confirm if it is able to be used with the Vi-pec range.

Trigger errors will normally be accompanied by a miss fire. The material of the wheel can effect the signal strength as does the sensor gap. You will need to recheck the arming voltages and the timing offset.

That I'm not sure about only way to tell would be if you have the dead times for the deka.

Yes as the pump needs to find its correct position. It should make the noise for a bit and then stop once it is in position

At this stage its a bit of a dream.

Can you send the map through we can give it a try on the bench.

You could copy a fuel and ignition map from one map from one of the turbo applications over. Where are you looking to get it tuned as they might be able to help with a map.

Yes the lag times will change depending on injector type selected.

Are you running multi coil or is the engine using a distributor? Also are you on the latest firmware?

Looking at the MAP the fuel numbers look too big at low load the numbers are so flat going down the table. It looks to need some time spent tuning. You can tune in real time so if you drive the car and work through the fuel map starting at light load and working up to higher load. Try to adjust only when you are in a zone centre.

The MX5 map will do to start from. It will need tuning but will allow the engine to get up and running.

Do you have the option in your firmware of Knock external AN? Later firmware removed this option as it was not very effective. If not then all you can do is set the AN volt to a GP 0-5 input and log the level

Are you able to send you PCL file in for us to check. It does however look to be an issue with the internal Baro sensor.

Hi Lawrence and Ben A flat 1.7 will be fine to use at 14V It will need to be increased at lower voltages. In some cases you need to run lower dwells at high RPM as the coils then start to be on for much more of the time and can start to over heat. Have not struck this on the splitfire coils.

Any 2 or 3 wire solenoids can be used. Stepper motors can also be used but are not as easy to work with and use up more aux outputs. To answer your question there is no preferred option.