Adamw

Christian, Sorry I didn't have access to the old G4 software yesterday. I just took a look at your data and map now. So ignore the odd wideband behaviour for the first 25 seconds or so, this is just the probe warming up and stabilising. The afr does follow duty cycle well so it appears your wiring is correct and the probe is working. It is reading quite lean at idle and probably not believable so that could be something like a slight misfire or air leak or perhaps it is just not idling well and has poor combustion. It appears to improve above idle speed and give believable numbers.

Alex, instead of setting the Analog input up as "Voltage 0-5V" as I did in the example above, you could set it up as "GP Input", label it "Launch RPM" and assign a Cal table. Your cal table will be Voltage vs RPM. You can then set up your LC table with "Launch RPM" on one axis (instead of voltage). Your analog input should now be logged as RPM instead of voltage. I can post some screenshots later if you cant work it out from these instructions.

Actually I know for sure (at least on the JDM 2JZ's that we see down here in NZ) the stepper can bypass enough air to get over 4000RPM, so I wouldnt yet rule out that it could be IAC settings. If you are using closed loop, switch to open loop and play around (or zero out) with base position table to see if it has any effect. On some 2JZ you have to set motor direction to reversed. Set all the step tables to zero - AC step, startup step, power steer, park/neutral, etc. I have reported to link a few months ago that some of these "adjustment steps" invoke by themselves without even a DI assigned to them so there may be some odd bugs in this feature.

I know you posted a map yesterday but can you post your most recent map and a pc log. The screenshot is worthless without more data. Also, is your probe in a standard "downpipe" type location and do you have a full exhaust fitted and leak free?

With engine running, and laptop connected, go to ecu settings>triggers>calibrate, then click on "set base timing". This will bring up a new screen where you can set whatever figure you want to lock the timing to. For you probably 10° is a convenient number. The with timing light pointing at pulley, then adjust the "offset" number up or down until the 10° mark on your pulley/engine lines up. After you click done on that screen you need to hit F4 to save changes to ECU.

The x series has CAN and link already have the template in the software. Why don't you avoid all the analog errors and connect via CAN?

From my experience I would say avoid the IQ3 like the plague. I have had two customers with them, both moved to something else after (multiple) hardware and software issues. Support at Racepak is non existent. Race Technology is pretty hard to beat value wise. They tend to have a quite a few annoying bugs on the logging side but as a dash they work ok. If you are just looking for a display (rather than logging), then maybe something like this might fit your budget: http://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-sdm-300-dash-display-new <I haven't tried one yet but have other plex devices that are good and well supported. AiM MXS Strada is another with similar pricing to RT.

Vincent, Trying to get some effect by adjusting the main fuel & Ign maps as you have proposed will not achieve much. With proper setup "two step" or launch control you should be well into positive pressure and not down in the vacuum region that you have highlighted. Since you are 4WD you will probably want to use Mode 2 - this is commonly known as "two step". It is a fixed RPM limiter usually combined with extra fuel and very retarded ign. For this mode you would normally activate it with a switch on the clutch pedal as it must be turned off as soon as you start moving. Settings for this aren't easy to guess and are usually done by trial and error. Unless someone here has already done an evo with very similar turbo/engine setup to yours then you will probably have to play around yourself. You also need to be careful of aggressive limiting if your engine has hydraulic cam followers.

Thanks, now I get it. As Scott says, the easiest way would be an aux out or change to a toggle/latching button . It would be possible to build an external latching circuit for the lamp but it seems a difficult way to achieve the need.

I'm not quite sure I understand what you are trying to do with a momentary switch, are you using the "latched launch" mode? Sorry, I'm also not clear what you are asking here. Perhaps you can draw a quick diagram (even a photo of a paper drawing) and explain what you want to happen/how you want things to work. A picture of your switch might help too since "5 pin" doesn't mean much.

I think it would work if you do the opposite - that is turn off the pullup and have the switch supply 12V. Excuse my MS paint skills:

aVL1D, do you know what engine the crank sensor is from? Maybe a part #? Is it originally off a 60-2 trigger - the sensor pole piece looks bigger than your tooth size?

Hi Curtis, From the info you have given I think it is quite unlikely there is an ECU issue. It is more likely to be a failed sensor, a wiring issue, or possibly something like the CAS has moved (I think remember reading the CAS drive sometimes shears or comes loose on RB's?). There is no volatile memory that would be lost, reset or changed by disconnecting the ECU. The fault codes may or may not be part of the issue, they are all related to AN/AT inputs and are often generated when a sensor has been disconnected. So they could be just from when the mechanic was working and he unplugged a few wires or they could indicate a faulty sensor or bad connection to a sensor (they could also just be a lazy tuner that never set the fault conditions right in the first place). So it would be a good idea to do a quick reality check on all the sensors. A quick test of the basics would go like this: With the engine cold (after car has been sitting overnight), attach laptop and turn on ignition - eng not running. Air temp and water temp should both read similar values and they should be close to room temperature (say about 20°C depending where you live). MAP should read about 100KPa. TPS should read 0% with throttle closed and 100% with foot on floor. Those are the main ones that will influence how the car runs. Start car and warm it up, make sure air and water temp still give realistic numbers, TPS should be the same as before and MAP should be <50KPa at idle. If you have access to a timing light it would also be worth putting a timing light on it and make sure the timing marks show the same timing as the ECU is commanding. Read the help file about how to do an ECU datalog and if you can do that it might give us some further clues too.

If you dont have any type of immobiliser connected to the ECU then set the anti-theft default state to "engine run". The other setting "allow CAN request" doesnt matter. Do you know if the ECU has been wired with the intent of using the ECU hold power function? For the Hold power function to work properly it needs to be wired in a specific way and you will have a digital input assigned to "ignition switch" and an aux out assigned to "hold power". If you dont think it has been wired with hold power intent then make sure you dont have any digital inputs assigned to "Ign switch" otherwise it wont go.

Yes you have a trigger issue. Unfortunately the G4 range doesn't have the trigger scope function so Ducie54's suggestion is in jest but I agree a scope of the trigger would be really helpful if you know anyone with an oscilloscope... One possibility is the polarity of crank sensor is reversed (assuming its a VR sensor). So how did you initially determine the correct polarity? Provided you have ascertained that polarity is correct then you could try increasing the trigger filter level a little. If that doesn't help then you really need to get a scope on it to see what's wrong with the wave form (I would expect your dealer should have a scope).

Your symptoms indicate either ECU hold power or anti-theft is not configured properly - both of these functions will override the triggers. I think the 350Z normally has immobiliser input via CAN so check that has been disabled. You should be able to see the status of both of these items using the runtimes screen.

Trying to tune any fuel or ign table before you have the basic requirements of a running engine in place is pointless. A log is worthless when we cant trust any of the data that it is showing. The first thing you must do is verify the ignition timing. If you don't have easily accessible TDC marks on the pulley or flywheel, then paint on something temporary using your best guess at TDC based on something like a screwdriver down a spark plug hole - not accurate but at least that will verify if you are in the ball park. Similarly, cam timing is also easy enough to do a reality check on. At TDC exhaust stroke, both intake and exhaust valves will be open a similar amount and it should be relatively small - say 2mm lift. MAP sensor is also easy to verify; Suck on the hose with your mouth - you should be able to get down to say about 50KPa (guessing?), blow on the hose you should see ~110KPa.

Have you done the trigger calibration with a timing light per Scott's suggestion earlier? Your MAP is >100KPa at idle - if an engine like this cant pull decent vacuum at idle then most likely either ignition timing or cam timing is out. It also seems odd that MAP is higher than BAP at idle? Maybe your MAP sensor is connected wrong or not calibrated correctly?

There are quite a few ways to do this but this would be my suggestion. Your pot will be connected to an analog input. Set the Analog input function to "Voltage 0.5V", name it something like "Launch Pot". Set the launch mode to "3D Launch RPM table". Put your Launch pot analog channel on one axis of the table (values should span 0-5) and usually non driven wheel speed on the other axis. My rough example below would allow your pot to adjust initial launch RPM from 3000 to 5500RPM.

How much cooling they need will depend on how much current your coils pull and how often or long the engine spends at high load. Most electronics will give a significantly shorter life expectancy above say 85C so you want to take some steps to minimise this. The general rule is they need to be mounted to an aluminium plate of reasonable thickness and surface area and you really want them in reasonably open air so that convection can do its job. You should also use heat transfer paste on the mating faces (the modules normally come with a small packet). Certainly under the dash is ok but I wouldn't be sealing them in a box.

David V's write up here is a good start: http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/5441-knock-setup-on-g4-plug-in-evo-6/#comment-39958

Bosch part number is 0227100203. The mating connector is a 7 pin JPT. Wiring is in PC link help or many suppliers have a datasheet with a bit more info like this one:http://www.nzefi.com/wp-content/uploads/3ch-Ignitor-wiring-Rev1.2.pdf

I guess the first step is to program the PDM to ensure both outputs are always switched together. Provided the wiring is reasonably sound and you have similar loads on each PDM output hopefully they will see a similar voltage. I would confirm that by comparing the bat voltage displayed in PCLink with a voltmeter attached to an injector 12V (preferably whilst engine is at full load). The trouble will arise if for instance the ignition circuit pulls 5 amps whilst the fuel pump circuit pulls 15amps, with voltage drop along wiring and through every connector could mean the injectors see significantly less voltage than the ecu.

It is not a hardware or software issue, it is your wiring. You must wire as per one of the schematics in the help file. Not only to prevent back feed issues like you are experiencing but for the ecu to correctly apply voltage based compensations like injector dead time etc, then the ecu and injectors (& preferably coils too) must share the same common power source.

Andy, yes I think you are right with a factor of 10 being at play in the mix somewhere... Fant, another work-around you could use to get you running with realistic numbers and settings would be to switch your equation load source to MAP. Then just set up one of the analog inputs as a MAP (but you don't need to have a MAP sensor connected), just set up the error value to 100Kpa so the ecu sees a MAP of 100 all the time.