Adamw

Also, even if you find your injector current is within the allowable 5A, the other thing you need to be careful about with when driving peak/hold injectors with a "saturated" driver is the injector can overheat. I have never seen it myself but I have heard of cases where the injector coil insulation will basically melt and then it is a dead short on the injector driver. Then you have a good chance of frying the ECU... So maybe you will continue to be lucky - maybe not. If it were mine I would be playing it safe and wiring the recommended way.

That doesnt sound like a hall sensor. Most hall sensors have 3 wires and they are usually not shielded. Your description sounds more like it is a VR sensor. Perhaps give us a photo or part number.

Are you sure, the diagram is showing on my phone ok. Maybe try refreshing you browser?

Ok, for the power wiring I would suggest the scheme below. I'll take a look at the config later when I'm at a PC but I suspect the std thunder base map will work with this wiring.

Are you intending to use DBW or stepper motor IAC in your application?

Yes, notice they dont have any direct input connections on them? The input terminals come up from the base plate underneath that they bolt to. I dont know how they would use them on an RB - maybe there is some aftermarket base plate you can get for them without the electronics in it? A brief search suggests you can actually modify the OEM DIS base plate to bypass the internal electronics but it looks like a pretty crude modification to me: https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/customer/gm-dis/

I dont think VN coils will work - I'm pretty sure they are the old GM "DIS" system? They bolt on to a special base that has all the DIS electronics inside.

Yes you definitely need an ignitor, can you confirm you have one? There is a trigger scope built-in in PClink. If you have spark at the coil though that would suggest the ecu is seeing at least some of the trigger. Another quick check is to watch RPM in PClink when cranking, if it reads around 150-200RPM during cranking the trigger is probably ok. The fact that you have spark going into the distributor and nothing coming out would suggest you have a rotor phasing problem. (i.e spark going into the distributor when the rotor is not pointing at a post) Provided the engine has run before and the distributor hasnt been moved then it is probably the trigger offset that is wrong rather than the distributor position. You could try adding increments of something like 20degs to the trigger offset until you get a spark coming out of a plug lead, once you have a spark coming out of a plug lead you can then put a timing light on it and set the trigger offset properly.

I dont see much wrong in your log either. ECU seems to be doing everything it should, most sensors are giving realistic numbers and the trigger seems happy. If you have a spark at the plugs then I would be starting to look at mechanical stuff now. Maybe cam belt has skipped some teeth etc. Start with a compression test. A couple of things I noticed in your log that I will mention; battery voltage is low during cranking and cranking RPM is low. ~9.8V & ~145RPM. Normally that wouldnt be a problem but sometimes with fouled plugs etc you need better than that, maybe battery is getting low? The TPS stays at zero throughout your log - that might be just because you never touched the throttle or perhaps it isnt working. It wont hurt to double check this is working since your main fuel table is TP based.

1st step, do a pc log of a cranking attempt. Follow this guide:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A Post the log file and a copy of your .pcl here

Hi Beams, When you say "same price as a Storm", which storm are you talking about - the new Black G4+ Storm, the old blue G4+ storm or the even older G4 storm?

Hi Rory, Glad to hear you are getting closer. I see something odd in your pictures above and I am curious if you have an explanation... In your first post you have pics from a standalone scope, For trig 2, the first photo showed 15V then the 2nd photo shows 45V p2p, now the link trigger scope is only reporting about 2v p2p. What is causing the massive variation between these 3 measurements? From the few visual clues we have (s/n ratio etc) I get the feeling the Link scope is reporting a more realistic value and there is something wrong with that original scope?

The Atom does not have knock control. You can connect the fuel pump relay to any spare aux out.Most aftermarket ecu's dont use the IGF feedback, don't connect this.Yes, remove the narrow band, the wideband can perform all of the same functions.

I will add a little more info here since I have quite a bit of experience in this strategy. I agree with ECU settings as per Scott's suggestions, but I would say nearly always it would be worth while to have a "MAP sensor" connected also. In this case however you don't connect the MAP sensor to manifold, you connect it to the airbox (your FPR reference should also be tee'd to this same measurement point). The ecu and FPR will then keep fuelling more consistent when the airbox is subjected to aerodynamic effects. If airbox and general intake design is good I often see 4-10Kpa positive pressure (ie you will need 4-10% more fuel) on high speed sections so it can be a significant effect.

I know with speedo signals it's common to refer to PPM (pulses per Mile), so I suspect PPK = Pulses Per Kilometer... Many GPS receivers have trouble detecting "stationary" especially when signal is poor so this might be the case here. You will need the antenna in best possible location (typically middle of roof) to reduce this effect. Many daq systems that use gps for speed will also have some other logic to reduce this issue such as comparing gps speed to lat G or some threshold setting such as "anything below 5kmh is considered zero", I can't think of a way to duplicate logic like this in Pclink.

I don't have much to add on top of what Scott has already said, but I did want to point out just in case you did not know - your main ignition table (also lambda target table to less extent) is pretty extreme above 180Kpa, you will likely break the engine if you leave it like that and run into those cells...

Hi JM_S2, The standard link/vipec tacho out is a 12V square wave so I would have expected it should work. The only thought I have is that maybe your tacho requires more current than the ECU internal pull up can supply. I would try splicing a 100ohm pull-up between 12V and your tacho signal wire and see if that works.

You need to contact your dealer and ask them for the unlock code. It wont run until you enter that. This is a security measure in case the ecu gets lost/stolen on its way to you.

Can you attach your .pclr also?

I just looked at the most recent 2JZ that I done and it was -5 too so at least there does seem to be a common theme with these. If you have no RPM showing in PC link then it suggests a trigger issue. It could also be antitheft or ecuhold power settings but I don't think the supra base maps have those functions enabled. Can you do a trigger scope and post a screen shot here? Also do a log during cranking and post that together with your .pclr (map) here.

Hi Powerboy, There is no separate "cranking ignition" table in the G4+, your timing during cranking will just come from the main ignition table. On a engine that uses MAP based load then the 6 cells I have highlighted below would probably be where you want to look

Definitely trigger two wired back to front.

Hi Tony, I'm not sure there is a way to do this in the software at present as its probably not something many people need to do. I'm sure it could be done electrically though - without giving it much thought probably something as simple as wiring them in parallel (or would it be series?) and write your own cal table for the combined sensors. I am curious how much difference are you seeing? Since engine temp is normally only used for comps like warm up enrichment and charge temp its probably not too critical to be a really accurate measurement, I would have expected just one sensor that follows the general temperature trend of the engine would suffice in most cases?

What are your injectors? Your pulsewidth at idle is only 1.5ms, most injectors wont behave linear with such a low pulse width. This is why you are getting the hunting effect. So unless you can get "short pulsewidth adder" info from the injector supplier, then I would suggest in the meantime the easiest fix is to lower your fuel pressure (try around 30psi). You will need to tweak the master fuel again to get it to run but then your idle pulsewidths will be in a region where the injector will work predictably. The tuner can then increase it again later before he starts mapping.

Woah, breaking out the retro kit there lol. That's lots of knobs & buttons to figure out... Just a note - for low speed automotive signals you don't need anything special for probes, just the cheapest you can find will be fine.