Adamw

If it doesn't power up when you swap jumpers around then it suggests your jumpers were correct in the first place. The tacho "key on sweep" is a ecu function that can be turned on or off in the software (and is normally enabled in the Link base maps) so this is nothing to do with your problem.

I notice you have the pullup's turned off. Most hall sensors are open collector type and will need the pull up turned on. So assuming this is wired standalone and you are not running this piggy backed with the stock ecu then this is the first thing I would try.

Hi Mr F... You. I understand it can get frustrating when you have spent a lot of money and things don't go as smooth as expected. I'm surprised you have had trouble with Link's support however, I have always found them to be quick to reply and thorough in there help. Anyway if you are willing to persevere for a little longer I'm sure we will be able to get it right and you will be happy when it is all working good. If you are frustrated with whoever you have been dealing with and want some independent help I would be happy to offer whatever I can remotely - I'm not a dealer or in any way tied to Link but do have quite a bit of experience with them and most other brands. I don't have a lot of experience with Subaru's in particular but am sure I could still help. I have never seen any problems with the triggering system in the G4+ platform, it seems robust and reliable. Especially with yours being an OEM setup and PNP ecu it should be fairly straight forward with no mods required to anything. I suggest the first step is to post a screen shot of your trigger scope. This is normal for forums to not allow images to be uploaded, this because images chew up server space quickly. You need to upload your image to a host and put a link in your post. Tutorial here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDO-qnEgeLw As well as the trigger scope could post a PC log of the car idling and also a copy of your map. Tutorial on how to do the PC log is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

T4700, the arming threshold at 1/2 peak is just a common rule of thumb but in your case since you have big voltage it is probably not necessary to go that high. It doesn't appear to be a noise issue that you have so can probably leave your arming voltage alone for now. If you did want to try something different for arming voltage, I would just set it to a flat 3-5V for all RPM's (provided the voltage at cranking speed is above that). From your explanation above that timing drifts with RPM, I think there is a good chance that your crank sensor polarity is wrong. Can you try reversing the wires on they crank sensor. You will need to redo the trigger cal after you change that.

http://aemelectronics.com/?q=products/wideband-uego-air-fuel-controllers/4-channel-wideband-uego-afr-controller CAN info is published so I assume these would work with link too. Still probably not the best option for a 6 cylinder but thought I would mention it.

Yes, software and firmware has been updated since the original post, you can now have 8 lambda channels via CAN. You will probably want to use CAN for your EGT's also since you will use up your analog inputs pretty quick with 6 egts.

Hi T4700, I don't see any big problems except that 135 teeth is always going to be difficult to work with for most aftermarket ecus - it will only take a very small amount of cam belt stretch or hamonics etc for the trigger 2 edge to jump across to the next tooth. I suspect that the odd spike that is visible in some of your scope traces (example below) is probably a software artefact rather than a real problem. Maybe Link techs will have more experience to share: Have you tried using rising edge for trigger 2? Have you tried swapping polarity on crank trigger?

I vote against also. Gimmick value only, no practical use for anything to do with an ECU or tuning so I would prefer ecu software to remain focused on it's job. As well as the needed inputs that Davidv listed, there are also 2 very influential effects that not usually considered in virtual dyno type softwares - those being road inclination and wind speed.

There are many options but here's some of the common ones: Low cost (2 needed): https://shop.vems.hu/catalog/amplifier-dsub9-p-129.html?osCsid=54a4449aea72777b5c5299e6d2e889fe Low cost (1 needed): http://www.exhaustgas.com/ProductDetail.asp?ProductID=1814&DepartmentID=&CategoryID=&RepID=&BasketID= More pricey but cleaner (2 needed): http://milspecwiring.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=68&product_id=774 Another option would be a CAN based amp such as: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/can-egt-8-channel-thermocouple-interface/

We cant see much in your trigger scope since it is zoomed out so much. Can you do it again but before you take the screenshot change the time/div setting to something smaller - I forget what settings the software will allow but I think you will need a number more like 5 or 1 ms/Div to get it the image clear enough that we can see the wave form.

The analog output on the older analog AEM gauges was well known to be terrible, some of them didn't have a separate analog ground either which didn't help the situation. So if that's the version you have then you will have to do some fudging and accept it will never be good. I haven't tested one of the new x-series gauges, but I have used both the new x-series inline controllers (my dyno has 4 connected via RS232) and the older LSU4.2 inline controller and both of those have very good analog outputs that match the data stream.

Have you put a timing light on it and done the trigger cal?

The white/violet wire on your wideband controller goes to the sensor ground (Ground out) on the G4+. The Violet wire goes to any spare analog input on the G4+. 12V and ground are obvious. You dont need any of the other wires. Set your analog calibration like this: As for the temp senors, toyota normally follow the std bosch curve. What resistance do yours have at room temp?

You might need to explain better what you want to do, but I think what you want is "auxiliary injection". You have two injector drives left so you could set up inj 7 & 8 as auxiliaries that control 3 injectors each. That will give you another full fuel table. In modelled fuel mode you could also possibly get creative using the staged injection function together with a lambda target overlay table so that injectors are phased in based on some condition but still have effectively their own fuel table.

Although it will probably work fine just the way it is (for a cam/sync), since you did ask the question... Your tooth is too wide. For a VR sensor the ideal tooth width is about the same as the diameter of the "pole piece". The pole piece is the magnet inside the sensor. If it is not visible on your sensor you can find it by wiping something like a paper clip over the end and noticing where it sticks. My understanding is with VR sensors the "trigger" point is where the wave crosses zero so you want that to be as steep as possible. Yours with the big flat spot at zero is not ideal.

Hi Itegrale8v, I thought I would explain my thoughts behind that comment better in case it came across that I was being rude to you... I'm not dismissing your idea or experience, I can certainly see that this could be a problem trigger in some cases and your suggestion might be the easiest work around. In this case however there was an obvious problem (wave form upside down) and I think it is more important to get the basics right first and not change too many things at once. The issue I have with setting a Hall type input with a VR sensor is based only on my generic ECU knowledge and may not be specific to Link but it usually isnt a good idea. A VR input circuit is usually designed to cope with about 100V AC, whereas a Hall circuit is typically only designed to handle about battery voltage. We can see from the trigger scope pics that the OP's cam sensor is already putting out a healthy 4V at just cranking speeds, this voltage will increase by about 10X by redline. So, how long will Link's hall circuit accept short 40V pulses for... I dont know, maybe forever, maybe not. But if he did end up frying his input circuit because he was using it in a non recommended way then the warranty could certainly be void etc. The link dealers you talked of might have scoped it at high RPM and had enough confidence that it would be ok, but its not something I would recommend for every user without careful testing and consideration. I have never touched one of these engines but there are quite possibly other methods you could use to move the two trigger events apart also. For instance you could grind one more tooth off the crank trigger to make it 60-3. And/or you could grind one side of the cam tooth a little so that the wave form gets shifted sideways, or something like an offset key for the crank pulley...

yeah, -84 or 636 would work. Now that I'm on a PC again I notice also now your trigger 2 is a bit messed up with a funny double hump - that may be causing an issue too. Did you reverse the wires at the sensor end or the ecu end of the loom?

Did u re-sync timing using a timing light? If that is ok then possibly the sync tooth is now offset to the other side of the the gap which means you are 360deg out. so if you have done trigger cal already and it's not firing then add 360 to your trigger offset number

RPM glitches and Timing scatter are common symptoms of trigger errors. In your case because of the wrong polarity the ecu is seeing 59 teeth every revolution instead of the 58 that it is expecting. Every so often it will lose track of position and "skip".

It seems Scott hasnt posted today so I just got on a PC. Your crank sensor is definitely wired the wrong way. Swap the wires and re-do your base timing (trigger cal) and you should be good to go. You shouldnt need to change the trigger 2 settings as per Integral8v's comment, I'm pretty sure it should be fine the way you have it set. If not we can always try the "trigger priority" setting.

Hopefully @Scott will chime in, I'm viewing on my cell phone so cant see clearly but it looks to me like your crank sensor is wired back to front.

Could you do a trigger scope also. I suggest run the engine at about 2000RPM then hit capture. Save it and post a screenshot here.

Cam tooth position doesn't matter (except for what I said earlier, try not to have it occur close to the missing teeth).

Yes it is a reference to TDC, but it doesn't need to occur at TDC. You set your trigger offset in the software (calibrate trigger menu). This is the angular distance the crank must rotate from the first tooth after the gap to TDC. However you don't need to measure anything, just take a guess then crank it with a timing light on and adjust until the marks line up. More info in the help file and it will make more sense when you actually do it. I think you will find the vast majority of OEM triggers that use missing tooth wheels, the gap is never at TDC. Ford's favourite for instance is usually 90ATDC. There are many reasons, one I already mentioned is the crank acceleration near TDC, another is if your missing tooth is in an area where your ignition event must occur (say 0-45°BTDC) there is the possibility that it would be less accurately positioned since there is no tooth to reference.

On a 4 cylinder the ideal location for the missing teeth to pass the sensor is somewhere near 90° BTDC (or 90 ATDC is good too). In reality it will work pretty much anywhere with an engine like yours but the suggestion of 90 deg will give the most reliable detection under conditions when crankshaft speed variation is worst such as cranking when you have a flat battery. As the piston approaches TDC the crank "slows down" and that can make it more difficult to detect a missing tooth if it is near TDC. If you are going to have a single sync tooth on the cam as well then the only rule for this one is you don't want it occurring at the same time as your missing tooth.