Adamw

You should not have any problem from a noise perspective with the igniter next to the ecu. You do not need shielded cable between ecu, igniter or coils. Most igniters need to be mounted on an aluminium heat sink and have some airflow around it for full service life.

Multitooth will be the correct mode. In trigger 2 settings did you set that to "none"?

I dont have any experience with these specific coils but I'm fairly sure they will be the normal falling edge. As far as I know it was only the old honda "coil in distributor" types from the early '90s that were rising edge. Here's a quick test that should confirm; Remove #2 coil from its hole, but leave it connected to the wiring and insert a spare spark plug into the coil and ground the body of the spark plug. In PC link, temporarily set ignition mode to distributor and do a store. With ignition turned on, now go to "aux outputs - ign" and while watching the spark plug, set ignition drive #2 to "test (on)" (polarity setting should be low). You might have to try clicking between "test (on)" and "off" a couple of times to get a good feel for what is happening. If you see a spark the instant you turn "test on" then the coil is falling edge. If you see a spark the instant you turn test off then it is a rising edge coil.

Yes, my logic says your proposed set up is correct and should work as expected. LED off and DI is high when switch is open, LED on and DI goes low when switch closes.

You are correct. Engine capacity x VE = Volume air flow. Volume air flow x air density = Mass Air Flow. The problem is you dont know VE so Mass air flow cant be calculated. As a starting point, If I have ever needed to build a starting map I would typically build my basic fuel map based on VE, using say 50% at idle ramping up to 100% at peak torque and drop back to 90% at redline, that will get you something that will run the engine. Then you have to tune it from there. I have seen various excel based fuel map calculators around but I doubt any will give you anything much closer than my guess approach above. With link there are also many base maps supplied you with the software so I would suggest you just copy a fuel map out of one of these that is a similar config to your engine and change the master fuel until it runs.

Still set up an analog input as a AC pressure sensor but you don't need to connect a pressure sensor. On the analog input setup screen set the hi and low error volts so that it is in error condition full time (say both at 2V), then set your error pressure value to a pressure that will allow your system to run (ie somewhere between your low and hi pressure lock outs).

If using the "traditional" fuel equation with the equation load source set to "MAP", then the MAP multiplication happens in the background. The number in the fuel table is percent of the master fuel number @‌ a MAP of 100KPa. So to make that clearer, here's an example based on my simplified table shown below: At 100KPa MAP & 1000RPM, my injector pulse width would be 100% x 8ms = 8ms. At 50KPa MAP & 1000RPM, my injector pulse width would be 50KPa/100KPa x 100% x 8ms = 4ms Note there are many other factors that come into the final pulsewidth such as all the comps/trims and open loop table, but this should give you enough info to understand how the main fuel table number works.

Can you do a PC log of it cranking for a few seconds and post that and your map here.

As far as I can see, the G4+ is capable of doing this with a user defined stream. I think the existing "load (abs)" parameter would be almost directly proportional to torque output so you could probably use this to create the torque message. I think you could then just use the CAN multiplier/divider/offset to convert the load parameter into the correct range of "torque numbers" that the gearbox expects to receive. I have a hunch however it might not actually want just predicted "torque output" - I vaguely remember seeing parameters more like "driver requested torque" associated with the few gear shift controls I have seen. - But I reckon even that should be possible to simulate with the existing tools. So the biggest challenge for the OP will be finding all the OEM CAN ID's and message structure etc and then finding someone who understands enough of it to translate it into the G4+ template and that will likely incur significant time and cost.

With crank sensor swapped as you have now you will see massive timing drift vs RPM. There is another post here somewhere, where another user said setting the cam to hall got around the problem. (i will see if I can find it soon). I would only do so however if you get advice from Link support that it is ok to do this and it wont void your warranty. I dont know the internal trigger circuit inside the G4+ but with many ecu's you can fry them if you send VR voltage into a hall circuit. Another option might be to grind one side of the cam tooth a little which may offset that zero crossing enough. Also did you try changing trigger priority? that can sometimes help. Edit - added later: Here is the post i mentioned - it looks like you where part of that discussion anyway... http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/6280-random-high-engine-rpm-data-logging/&do=findComment&comment=45071 Perhaps Simon can comment if it is acceptable to set the trigger 2 to hall.

It seems this is already possible: You can already do this too:

It is mentioned in the Help file for the GTR plugin but I agree it is not particularly obvious, I havent seen the paper manual for a long time so I'm not sure how clear or unclear that makes things. 4mm ID hose is what you want. Once you connect this MAP sensor you may have to put your master fuel number back to where it was originally but it will hopefully now run pretty reasonable.

Jon, Assuming your GTR/GTS plugin is reasonably new, it should have a map sensor built in the ECU (I think from memory some old revisions might not have had the built in MAP). Can you check if yours is as pictured below, the red circle is the MAP sensor, this is where your vacuum hose should attach, it sounds like you might be assuming some other sensor in the engine bay is the MAP sensor? BTW, The fault code for the O2 sensor is not part of your problem so you can ignore that.

Jon, what ECU do you have - is it a PNP or wire in? Can you check if the MAP sensor has any numbers on it or maybe post a photo? A quick n dirty check you can do on the map sensor calibration is to view the "MAP" runtime value on the main tuning screen, like below: With ignition on and engine not running it should read about 100KPa (+/-~10). Then if you suck on map sensor hose with your mouth you should be able to pull it down to roughly 70KPa, and if you blow, about 115KPa at a guess.

I will add a little more info just for user knowledge: You generally want your gap to be in an area of least crank acceleration. For a 1, 2 or 4 cylinder, 90deg before or after TDC is a good position. For most engines 5 cylinders and up the crank acceleration is smooth enough that position is less critical (ignoring odd-balls like flat plane V8's).You generally dont want the gap to be within your normal running ignition timing range. For most engines this means you dont want the gap in the range 0-40 deg BTDC.Number of teeth on the crank trigger should be divisible by the number of cylinders. So for instance 36 teeth is good on a 4 cylinder but not ideal for a 5cyl.I have never observed the "sync tooth position" being quite as critical as the help file makes out (within the 50% window would be very difficult to achieve on a 60-2 set up!), but it is certainly always advisable to have the sync tooth nowhere near the crank "Gap".

What model is the car & tacho? Have you tried changing tacho duty cycle already? - if not try it at 25% & 75% to see if that helps.

The Leading spark is the important one that does 95% of the work, all the commanded timing tables in the ECU refer to Leading so it easiest to use leading for setting the offset. You can check trailing as well though if you like: With your split table is set at 15°, lock timing to -5°. Adjust offset so that timing light on #1 leading reads 5ADTC, then put timing light on #1 trailing, you should now see 20ATDC.

You can use any of the pins you have mentioned above. If there is no wire in those positions then you can either go to your local "u-pull-it", "pick-a-part", etc and take a couple from some other '90s toyota, or you can buy the bare terminals and make your own. The terminal is a sumitomo 040: https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/109_110/products_id/1784?osCsid=bnpq8ed9ptu2nj24lf1d8fblr1 Fuel pump speed control, purge solenoid and AC clutch are other aux's that you may not need and might be able to re-purpose. Note depending on how old your PNP is, it might also have an aux out available on the second expansion connector, see this post: http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/1964-supra-plug-and-play-ecu/&do=findComment&comment=39067

If you are talking about the video gauge adapter then yes, it works with the G4. It looks like it uses the "generic dash" CAN stream which is common between the G4 & G4+. You will need the link CANPCB cable to access the CAN connector on your PnP. It's also been posted on facebook so it must be true...

Hi Ken, Have you double checked that your timing mark is actually correct? Even though the timing light should have been on leading #1 as Scott has suggested, I think that would only have made 15° difference and you have much more error than that. The only logical explanation that I can come up with for what you are observing is that the timing mark must be wrong? I don't know all variations of these engines well but I do know on some you can get the pulley fitted 90° out. A quick test is to remove the centre bolt so you can see the eccentric shaft keyway underneath, that should pointing "West" or "9 o'clock" when #1 is at TDC.

Possibly bigger battery cables, bigger battery or a LiFE battery might help? If spare trigger wheels/flywheels were available and not too expensive, another thing I would try would be grinding off an extra 1 or 2 teeth to make it 36-3 or 36-4. My logic here is with a bigger differentiation between the normal teeth and the gap it should help the ECU detect the gap.

Although it would be possible to do this, it would be much easier to invest in an ecu that can do it natively. The trouble with piggy backing the OEM ecu is keeping the original ECU happy and error free once you have taken ignition and injection control away from it. I have never done it myself but I can foresee many hours of trail and error will be involved and unless you have all the right test gear and experience it will probably end up in tears. There used to be a external Ethrottle module availible to allow the G4 Strom to do ethrottle directly but those are obsolete now. If you found one of those it would make things easier - Dealer Brad Burnett mentioned he had some in this thread a couple of days ago: http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/6493-sti-v4-plugin-and-e-throttle/&do=findComment&comment=46454 The other options would be convert to a cable throttle or an standalone DBW controller such as: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DBW-throttle-controller-universal-adjustability-for-pedal-and-throttle-/172447282666?hash=item2826a8b5ea:g:tzIAAOSwnDZT55LI&item=172447282666&vxp=mtr https://ozmoengineering.com/product/standalone-dbw-2tb-controller/

You dont need to delete anything, the ecu should just overwrite the oldest data should the memory get full. Try this: With engine running and logging conditions met, hit F12 to open up the runtimes window, go to the ecu status tab and take a look at the "ecu logging" status, that should give you some clues.