Adamw

No you wont need a MSD ignition adapter. You have the ignition trigger set to 'rising' right? Do you get RPM displayed in PC link during cranking?

Ah yes, I should have paid closer attention to the original post. I had jumped to the conclusion that he was talking about the fuel pump prime so sorry to confuse matters. I have never needed much crank enrichment with most of the engines I have tuned.

There are other ways around this too - a check valve on your fuel pump will probably hold enough pressure in the fuel rail to allow the engine to fire before the fuel pump has kicked in. Alternatively you could add a jumper that energises the FP relay when the starter button is pushed...

I think you could also do what you want by setting up a GP limit table. Set the axis as TPS and RPM, then set the table so that it does a 100% fuel cut when engine is above 80%TPS and below say 250RPM.

Any normal NTC temp sensor will do such as those you would use for coolant or oil temp. If wired to an AN input use a 1kohm pullup as per page 39/40 of the manual.Â

Setup like this: Then just do the trigger offset calibration as per the manual.

Yes the RB26 CAS is often troublesome. There are two issues - 1. the decoding power needed at high RPM & 2. the mechanical backlash in the drive system when coupled with valve train harmonics/belt whip. To change to a proper crank trigger setup does involve quite a bit of engineering work or money to do it right. Not only do you need to mount a trigger disk and sensor on the crank but you also need to modify the cam sensor to give only one pulse per cycle. There are kits available from companies like ross balancers but you are looking at ~$1500. For a high output big dollar race engine then crank trigger is the best option. However for a less serious engine you can usually get reasonably solid triggering without going to such an extreme: Ensure all mechanical elements are good - the cam belt, pulleys, tensioner and the CAS spline drive must all be in good condition with no play. Change the disc inside the CAS to an aftermarket one with less slots (google AEM 30-8761) and you should be good to go. Â

I dont think either of these options would work particularly well without a lot of other conditions included in the stratagies... An oxygen sensor will indicate full lean any time that an engine is on a limit (regardless whether it's fuel or ignition cut) or any other misfire condition. So any time you hit any RPM limit, two step, launch control, anti-lag, gear cut, etc, your AFR/RPM limiter would be activated and would never deactivate because it will be in an infinite loop situation.  The fuel pressure based limiter stratagy may work better but still would need a lot of work to get it to work without too many false alarms. The G4 has a 'differential fuel pressure' parameter that you could use (fuel pressure-MGP) for one axis of the limit table, however you would need quite a large tolerance between 'normal fuel pressure' and 'low fuel pressure' to prevent false alarm/limits due to things like FPR lag during transients and altitude/atmospheric press variation. In my opinion you are better to fix your fuel supply issues, use quality components that you can trust and get the ECU mapped properly rather than mess around with safety stratagies which are really just an 'ambulance at the bottom of the cliff'.

I have done quite a few NA/ITB race engines and always use TPS only for the load.  I cant see even a well 'dampened' vacuum manifold giving you a useful signal for a MAP or blended load. The blended MAP/TPS strategies are useful for boosted engines with ITB's but not needed in your case. I connect the MAP sensor to the airbox only to compensate for any aerodynamic pressurisation. I have never had any issues with transient response with this type of setup. One thing I will mention is that with TPS based load you must setup your load axis with fine increments/resolution at low TP. So I normally my load axis would be something like: 0%, 2% 5% 7% 10% 15% 25% 40% 60% 80% 100% Then after initial tuning if there were any big changes in two adjacent rows then I might insert another load row. Â

Ok, I have the gear cut function working fine on a car using very similar settings to yours so you should probably now get in touch with link support directly for help. Send them a copy of your map and if possible a log of the fault happening so they can try to trace the issue using a simulator.

Your digital input function should be set to 'gear cut', not 'GP input'.

If you are only after one or two channels, the VEMS amps are quite cost effective also: https://shop.vems.hu/catalog/amplifier-dsub9-p-129.html?osCsid=57b0ae22a0118f887164b1607c5090a7 I don't like using the Dsub type connector so I just pull the PCB out of its case, trim it down a bit, solder wires on directly and heat shrink it into the actual harness/cable. That gives you a nice neat install with no extra boxes everywhere.

You can do something similar using 'multiple boost tables' and switch them using virtual aux's. There's a few different ways that you could do it but you could have say 'Boost table 1' set up with your full E85% boost levels. Then you would set up a virtual aux to that turns on when say ethanol content is between 72%-80% - use this to switch over to 'boost table 2' which would be a medium boost table. Set up another virtual aux for say <= 72% ethanol and use that to switch on 'boost table 3' - which is your low boost settings.

Looks very much like a Molex micro-fit 3.0 to me. You will be able to get them from someone like RS components, Digikey or Mouser. I would look closely at the drawings for P/N 43025-0600 (6pin receptacle) 43025-0200 (2pin receptacle) 43030-0001 (terminals) You will probably need to by a minimum of 100 terminals but they should be cheap.

Yes, provided you still have one of the digital inputs spare you can splice your ABS reluctor sensor signal into any of the DI's on a storm. Ensure the DI pullup is turned off and calculate your cal number per the help file. If your 94 tooth ring rotates at wheel speed then your cal number will probably be in the 4000-5000 range.Â

Have you got any trigger errors showing?

Yes, there are a few ways you can do this with a G4 but the easiest way is to use the 'dual fuel table'. Under 'fuel corrections>dual fuel table', set the table mode to 'dual table'. In this screen you also select what input is used to activate the second map. There are many options here - you can use a digital input if for instance you just want a basic on/off switch on your dash for the map changeover, or if you want to do something more complex you can even use a virtual aux - for instance if you want to add some other conditions such as 'second map can only be selected when air temp is below 30°C' or whatever else you might want. After you have turned on the dual fuel table you will see a new fuel map 'fuel table 2' in the ECU settings tree. You will then also need to go through the same process to set up the 'dual ign table'

Arming threshold settings are only for inductive sensors, once you change the trigger type to optical/hall you will not have arming threshold tables.

Ok, so it looks like you cant tag/hyperlink images into this forum and it also seems you cant edit your own post after it is posted either?? So I hope you will still be able to click my links above to see the settings. If not please post back and I will try again.

The AEM EPM is uses optical sensors to give two 12v+ square wave outputs, one 24 pulse 'crank ouput', and the other a single pulse 'cam output'. So, your ignition settings should be setup like this: You will then just need to go through the 'set base timing' proceedure. For your tacho, you will have to connect to a spare aux output and set its fuction to 'tacho'.

The storm & extreme have about 4MB logging memory, the Atom has only 512KB. In all cases you can choose what channels to log and the frequency. 50Hz is the maximum in the current firmware. If you log all channels and parameters at max sample rate it will give you about 14mins logging on the storm/extreme or 2 mins for the Atom. I cant remember if you can export the LLG file natively but there is a third part app for doing that if you need too. See here: http://www.linkecu.com/forums/G4Forum/382067331?b_start=0#253582266 Although I think you will find the PCLink logging software is pretty good and will cover most log interpretation needs well. Â

You are just converting a 0-20ma signal to 0-5V, so the resistor goes across pin 3 &10. Then, pin 10 goes to ecu sensor ground, Pin 3 goes to the ecu analog input.

I dont see much in your log to suggest you have any trigger issues now. I would suggest you check ignition timing with a timing light to make sure it matches what is commanded by the ECU at a few different RPMs. Also check that rotor phasing is ok at various levels of advance (cut a hole in an old dist cap). Also, both your ignition and fuel maps could do with some smoothing, I know you have only just started tuning it but you have some fairly abrupt changes from cell to cell in some areas. You also possibly have a bit too much advance in the 4000-5500RPM, 80KPa area and that 5500 RPM column doesnt look good at all.

Here's one that I put together if anyone is interested: http://www.sendspace.com/file/zj1qkt All 1200 pages of it!

Using a 36-1 trigger wheel with a GT101 is often borderline unless your wheel is very large diameter. The gaps between teeth need to be quite large (~10mm) and the teeth need to be about 5mm long to get a good reliable trigger from that sensor. Although the Gt101 is still a popular sensor for crank triggers and seems quite dependable, it does have some negitives such as the tooth/gap size required and the response time is a bit slow for high RPM use. I generally like to lean towards a VR sensor on high tooth count wheels for better accuracy.