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Scott

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Everything posted by Scott

  1. Hi Kerem, There are a couple of ways of doing this. The multi-point group injection mode fires the injectors in two groups, even numbered injector outputs and then odd numbered injector outputs. So normally you would wire injectors for cylinders 1, 3, 5, and 7 to injector outputs 1 and 3. injectors for cylinders 2, 4, 6, and 8 to injector outputs 2 and 4. If you have 60-2 on the crank then there is no benefit in running the cam sensor. It depends on how the thermostat works and how much current it draws from the ECU. Do you have any information on how it works? Scott.
  2. Hi Tony, Thanks for the update, glad progress is being made on this. Good to talk with you earlier today also. Scott.
  3. No problem from the ECU side to use the 0.33 KOhm resistor. Does the relay already have a resistor or diode? Scott.
  4. Scott

    How to log

    Hi Scott, We have made a video that shows how to setup PC Logging, how to record the log file, and how to save it. This is for a G4+ ECU, but the procedure is similar for a G4 ECU. If you want to know about G4 ECU logging then take a look at PCLink Help > PCLink G4 Users Manual > Logging Operating Procedures > ECU Logging. Scott
  5. Hi Anthony, Is the ECU registering any trigger errors? Also, are the teeth on Trig 1 different widths, or is it just the slowing down of the engine on compression that is making some seem wider? Scott
  6. Hi Lauri, I had a quick look through your base-map and did not spot any major problems. We have a video showing how to record a PCLog. Scott
  7. Hi Lauri, Can you provide a PCLog of the idle problem, we will then be able to see what is causing the unstable idle and provide some recommendations to make it better. Scott.
  8. Generally the supplies are able to provide a fair bit more current than is required by the system, so adding some additional load is ok. If the current draw is too much after adding the solenoid then the most likely thing to happen is that the fuse protecting the circuit will blow. I would expect the current draw of the solenoid to be quite low, you could measure the resistance of the winding and work it out if you want to. If you want to be certain that no problems will occur you could fit a relay that takes power from the battery positive (via an appropriately sized fuse) and then supplies the idle solenoid. You would have one pin of the relay's activation coil to ground, and the other pin connected to an ignition switched +12V. Scott.
  9. Hi Tony, Things to check would include having the correct sensor wired to the correct ECU input and making sure the reluctor polarity is correct. How do you have things currently wired? Can you attach your base-map? Scott.
  10. Hi, We actually have done some work on implementing this trigger mode. However we need some testing to be done for us in order to finish it off. If you are interested in helping with this please send an email to [email protected]. Scott.
  11. Hi Cooper, Thanks for the files. I'll reply to you here as it may help another user in the future. From what I can see in your log file the A/C compressor output (Aux Output 6) is working as expected. The main thing that is causing the ECU to switch off the compressor clutch is that the evaporator temp is getting down below the lockout level of 4.0 degrees C. You could try adjusting the Low Evap Temp Lockout, but you have to be careful with this though, as you can see in the log file the AC system has a lag effect where the evaporator temp continues to drop after the compressor clutch disengages. Scott
  12. Hi, well done on what you have don so far. For the ISC solenoid, pin 3M will go to an ignition switched +12V, pin 3Q will go to an Aux Output channel (from 1 to 8). The Ignition switched +12V could be the one used to power the ECU, or you can use one from somewhere else, possibly the supply for the ignition coils or injectors. Just make sure that the supply you use can handle the additional load. You don't want to use a supply out of the ECU for this. Pin 1A is not needed by the Vi-PEC. Some ECUs use this for shutting down safely or saving data after the key is switched off. All the other pins will not be needed by you (thanks to your alternator swap). Pin 3K is not required, but if the signal goes from 0v to 5v you could consider connecting it to a spare AN Volt channel for interests sake. Scott
  13. I think Adam is correct. The minimum value you can set the reluctor threshold table value to is 200mV, so any signal amplitude below this is going to be regarded as electrical noise. Scott.
  14. Scott

    Checking timing RB25

    Hi Curtis, It looks like your base timing has been changed previously as it is different to our default base-map. It doesn't really matter what the number is so long as it is correct for your engine. To make sure the offset is correct you need a timing light. Do the following: 1. Connect the timing light to cylinder 1. You may need an HT lead to get between the coil and the spark plug. 2. Disable the fuel system. You can do this by turning the injection mode off in PCLink, or by disconnecting the injectors. 3. Connect to PCLink and open the base timing window. 4. Set the first field to the timing mark on the housing that you want to use as a reference. On most engines this will be 10 degrees BTDC or 0 degrees. 5. Shine the timing light on the crank pulley, adjust the second field in the base timing window until the line on the crank pulley lines up with the reference mark on the housing. When adjusting the second field use the Q and A keys to go up and down, or enter the value you want and then press enter. Once you have the base timing set up correctly remember to do a store to the ECU. Also remember to re-enable the fuel system. Scott.
  15. Hi Craig, I don't have experience with this engine, so can not say about the 'Variable Valve Induction Control Servo'. However if the 2 VTC solenoids are on/off based on RPM then you could operate them off 1 Aux Output provided that the combined current draw is not more than the Aux output can supply. Normal Aux Outputs on the G4/G4+ can supply 5 amps when driving low. You could always use a relay also. Hopefully someone who knows the engines will be along soon. Scott
  16. Hi Christian, I have modified your files. Try these and let me know if anything sensible shows up. Scott SupraLS - Mod.pclr SupraLS - Mod.CMG
  17. Hi Staffan, Yes you can use your existing wiring loom for a G4+ Xtreme. The only difference is that on the G4+ Xtreme pins B27 and B28 are multi-purpose: Pin B27 is able to be Digital Input 10 or CAN 2 H Pin B28 is able to be Digital Input 9 or CAN 2 L Scott
  18. Scott

    aux 9/10

    Hi Ramantanis, Which ECU model do you have? Which version of firmware are you running? On the B wiring connector do you have +14V (ign switched) to pin 5? Scott
  19. Hi cooper, Please upload your current base-map and a log file of you trying to use the AC control. Scott.
  20. Hi Antoine, Another idea is to try offsetting your trigger offset by 360 degrees, so for you this would be a value of 280. Scott
  21. Hi, I think I've been talking with you about this by email. If your fan is coming on and the analog supply is dropping down, then I think you most likely have a short in your ECT sensor or wiring. Scott
  22. Adam is right, I forgot you were using a G4 ECU, so no triggerscope for you. Can record a PCLog of you trying to start the engine with trigger 2 connected to the Inlet left hand cam sensor and upload please? I looked into our information on the Audi V8 trigger mode, and it says to use a trigger offset of 292, maybe you could try this also. Scott
  23. Hi, Would you mind uploading your ECU base-map and also your file from the Dash 2 Pro. I'll then take a look and try to determine the correct multiplier and offset. I'll then alter your ECU base-map and re-upload for you. Scott
  24. Hi Jo, You would set the digital input channel up as a GP Input with settings to match how you have the switch wired. You would then go to e-throttle 1 setup and set Active Tables to 2, and specify the Table2 Activation as the digital input channel you have your switch wired to. You would then enter the higher values you want in the 'E-throttle 1 Target 2' table. Once all setup return the e-throttle Mode to ON. Scott
  25. Scott

    Paddle shift

    Hi Gislain, Thanks for taking the time to think this out and then to write an explanation for us. I'm not sure I understand, are you asking for feedback on your proposed system from people? The table will interpolate so 750 RPM will give 75% duty cycle. I think this would make the system a lot easier to implement. I will ask the engineers to consider adding this. I will also ask the engineers to consider adding this. I will also ask the engineers to consider adding this. Yes you are correct. Scott.
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