Rob W

Yep, use cal 4,5 or 6 and that’s all you need.

It would be nice if these base tables could self populate whilst performing a known "safe" run to fill in the base tables with a background noise level. Then simply add the 10-20% to those values
the table could average over a few pulls if need be.

1342 Firing order so 1&4 and 3&2

Hi efi265,
I had a similar problem with idle hanging high, also using a GM style idle stepper motor that was part of a holley 1000cfm throttle body MPEFI chev 383 set-up using closed loop idle control.  It was a few years ago but from memory, here is how I licked it:
1.  Firstly you have to identify the stepper values that equate to the IAC valve being fully closed.  Do this by switching to open loop and physically looking at the IAC valve head while it is installed in the throttle body (car not running) and keep raising the stepper value in the table until the IAC no longer visibly moves any further closed.  Then back off 1 point, then set that as your max clamp value.  That means the IAC will never be instructed by the ECU to go beyond fully closed and will therefore never get out of kilter with the ECU.  To get a decent min clamp value, still in open loop, with a warm engine set the IAC far enough open to give you around 2500 rpm and note that value - set min clamp at that value.  Set TP Lockout to around 1% and RPM lockout to around 300-400.
2. Still in open loop, with the engine warm, set the stepper motor value to the max clamp level so the IAC is closed, and adjust the throttle stop so that the engine is idling about 100-150 rpm below your target idle speed.  Then do a TPS calibration and ensure that the TP position goes to 0% when the throttle is fully closed.
3. Still in open loop, with the engine completely cold, fire it up from cold and adjust the stepper motor values in the table for each temperature cell so that under 60C engine temp, you are idling around 150-200 RPM slower than your target closed loop idle speed for that temp, and above 60C you are idling around 100 rpm slower than your target RPM closed loop idle speed for that temp. Basically create a set of open loop stepper motor values that have the car idling quite a bit slower than desired at all temperatures.  The IAC should be very near the max clamp value with the engine at operating temp.  This set-up process is important and it's the key to success. 
4.  Switch back to closed loop and fine tune tune from there.  If it still hangs high, try increasing stepper motor value slightly, or increasing RPM lock-out slightly, or both.  If it drops under target and then recovers or starts to hunt, drop stepper motor value slightly.   
The reason the set-up approach in 3 is important is that when you set control to closed loop, when the throttle goes under 1% and RPM falls under the RPM lockout value (like when you coast to the lights), the ECU implements a ramping strategy that you have no control over.  To smoothly drop RPM down to target the ECU subtracts a fixed non-user-adjustable number of steps off the stepper motor table value for about a second, and then adopts the table value for about a second, and then adopts closed loop control.  If you have a stepper motor table value too low to start with, at the first stage of this ramping strategy the rpm will hold or rise outside the rpm lockout point again and the car will hang above this point or hunt around it.  The reason my car was prone to this is that the GM stepper motor flows shitloads of air and the non-user-adjustable number of steps that the ECU took off the table value at the first stage of this ramp back to closed loop actually increased my idle speed rather than gently guiding it down.  The bandaid approach was basically to have stepper motor values in the table that caused the IAC to be more closed during the non-controllable part of the ramping strategy than it otherwise would be. Idling when warm in closed loop my stepper values would generally be 5-8 steps higher than the base value in the table.  Let me know how you go.  My Chev was boosted too - I don't think your issue will be boost related.
Hope this helps.  Inserted a screen shot of my idle set-up, done using this approach.  Your stepper values won't be the same, but you get the idea.
Cheers, Andrew
Wellington NZ
idle.doc

Hi Rob,
Have a look at the parameters for 'Inj Actual PW' and 'Inj Effective PW'. These are found in the left hand column of the fuel tab of the Runtime Values Window (F12 key to open).
The actual pulsewidth is the effective pulse-width plus the injector deadtime.
Have a look and see what value the pulse-widths are when the AFR is rich. Then monitor them as you reduce the master fuel number. You will not be able to go lower than the setting you have for Min Effective PW.
Scott

Hi Rob, are you talking about setting up a boost gauge in PCLink, or physically connecting a boost gauge to run from the ECU?
If you are talking about in POLink then here ia quick little video:
https://vdoubleyou-scott.tinytake.com/sf/NjQ3MDQzXzMxNDEwMjA
Right click in an empty space to place the gauge. You can adjust the range and orange and red sections if you want. Press the 'u' key to swap between kPa and PSI.

Had this recently on an EVO 6 plug in G4+.
Stepper position for a stable 1000rpm idle was 92+/-2.
As throttle was applied to pull away, in real time, the stepper was jumping to 60ish steps (opening the throttle more), which meant that idle was at 1600-1700rpm. It then took about 30-40 seconds for the stepper to close to 90 and to come back down to 1000RPM 
So in stop-start traffic the car was a nightmare.
We had to change loads of parameters, but I'm still not happy with it if I'm honest. Still jumps to 60 steps on light throttle appplication, but managed to get it to drop faster.
I can't see why it's doing the drop to 60 steps! I've not told it to, so it's got to be hidden somewhere.

Hi Rob W,
You should not have any fear or regrets in the Link or no longer available ViPEC brand.
These ECU's are brilliant and same for the software.
I have installed and tuned that many I wouldn't remember.
I have never had even one failure.
Enjoy.
Regards
Dave.

Got a mate to drive the car today so I could adjust the fuel trims and pretty happy with the way things went after all the trouble. Thank you all for your help. I was starting to think I must be a bloody idiot. No more AC adapter for me thanks.
 

Thanks for sharing, we will be looking forward to having this diagnosed and resolved for you so that you may go on to enjoy your investment.
Cheers!

You can turn it off or set the error / fault settings to be Error Low 0V Error high 5V it will no longer bring up the fault.
You might have to do the same for the wideband as these also often read 0V at key on engine not running.

Hi dave32gtr,
you will only have the ability to input the injector cc's if you choose MODELLED FUEL EQUATION or MODELLED MULTI FUEL.
If you have your FUEL MAIN FUEL EQUATION setup as TRADITTIONAL, you don't have the option to insert the precise injector data.
You should try to use the MODELLED fuel equation when being tuned, however the Traditional setting has been left to make for easier starting and tuning.
Regards
Dave
 

Hi Rob W,
to be able to insert the injector cc's and a lot more fuel related and engine capacity data you need to select, Modelled or Modelled - Multi Fuel, instead of Traditional.
This is found under the Fuel Main Tab.
If you select these other 2 options you will find injector cc's under Injector setup and engine capacity under the Fuel Main Tab.
Regards
Dave.