Rossobianconero

I have some customer with subaru EJ257 (4 avcs) with more than 500whp and run as smoth as a stock car (big cams, 8000rpm redline, etc like your car). There is some work to get there, but is just time. I would say that you dont need more resolution that what link provide, you should be available to get where you want without problems with Linkecu.

the car is still moving when the engine stall, you are going faster that the speed lockout on the setup, change to speed lockout to off. Then the car will actually try to idle when you are breaking.

post a log file where the problem present, and your rom file to have a look.

We wire a e46 m3 engine, and the stock ignition coil is a dump coil, so you will need a igniter module on the wiring. It was a US market m3, I dont know if have any difference with other markets.

there you have it, like Adamw said, it just need more tuning. Usually you need to take quite a lot of fuel at higher rpm because like Adamw said, the efficiency of the engine drop (maybe no so much in a high na revving engine)

did the car never do this before? could be that just need some tuning. post a log and the ecu file to have a look.

Hi, those coils have the igniter build in, so you dont need the igniter module on the loom that the stock wiring have.

if you keep having this problem I will say that switching the trigger wheel to something that allowe you to run the engine without cam sensor, could be a good option. Just run semisecuential injection, as you already run wastespark like the stock engine.

Post the rom file and a log to have a look.

that is the old EUGO gauge, right?

lambda .75-1.05 should make a big difference in engine temp at low load, like cruising at 120km. and like Adam said, either the fans... maybe realy retarded ignition timing? but I have never see that cause you ussually run a lot of advance when you are cruising... if you post a log file and the rom of the ecu maybe we can help.

when you say below 110, are you taking about actual engine temperature (C?) or are you talking about vehicle speed? either way if you post a log and the rom file from the ecu we can have a look.

I have a couple of customers with the 1.8 VVT engine, they run great on the LinkG4+ wiring ecu. And they upgrade from the MS ECU actually, one of them because of a faulty regulator on the alternator. Without warning the alternator start to make spikes of voltage, and burn the MS ecu... We wire in the Link (without knowing about the problem), after just a few seconds of the first start, the engine shutdown. Looking at the log, we saw voltage of over 18V, the ecu cut the fuel and save everything, the ecu never burn like the MS. I have work with MS ecu, and have customers with them on, I really don´t like it...

Yes, you can run the car without the IAC, when is cold it ussually have lower rpm that when at temperature, but I have run my SR20DET with a Storm with and without the IAC working. Is a good thing that the Link software let you do a lot of things to get the correct idle, I have other customers with SR20DET and others Ecu brands without IAC and they work OK aswell. Is better to have it but, you can get around it.

you want to read lambda? if so doesnt have to be from a Can device, you can just buy a Aem X series wideband and you use the 0-5V signal, you just wire that correctly to the extreme and you are ready to go.

or the other option is to detune the engine before hitting you fuel cut, let say you have your fuel cut at 7000rpm, you can lower the power of the engine before that rpm, so the driver knows that he is close or is just slower to hit, you can even rise the fuel cut to 7100rpm but lower the power output of the engine that no driver is gonna push the engine that high because is clearly not making any more power. Lower the boost, putting more fuel, or just taking a few degrees of the ign table, or all of them. Is just another way.

I work with a lot of race cars, and usually my aproach is to leave it to the driver, I dont wont to shutdown the engine in the final corner if he is fighting for the championship, I leave that to him or her to decide, in that case the best way is a Dash, and make different alarms, he or her can decide what to do and when. In those car I just make corrections to try keep everything undercontrol if something goes wrong. If is not that series the competition then aggresive protections is a good way to save the engine. If you just need to turn on a light to warn the driver, you can use aux that under over X afr and X amount of load turn the light.

great info, the math is not a problem I was talking about two difference things, but is good to know that one connected I will have a chance to work that out, still would be great it they fix it. Save me a lot of time with some new projects to make all that configuration at home before going to the dyno.

exacly... I'm guessing a easy fix for the next update.

Well you didn't fix the problem with the the decimal in the tables, I say the other day about a table that I want to create (4D ign correction) using math, but didnt allowed decimals, I put a *10 at the end of the equation, and fix the problem but should be at the first place (easy fix anyway)... and now I was trying to make the GP limit table that I always use, with axis being lambda/boost, but doesn't allowe decimal in the lambda axis... making this GP limit useless. I know I can create another equation, put a 10* at the end and use that result for this GP table, but should be corrected in the software, the G4+ didn't have this problem. Regards

Hi, A friend want to install a link ecu to a Nissan HR16DE engine (rallycar) converter to traditional throttle, I know the software has the trigger pattern, what about the VVT that engine has... is a on of switch? or is a VVT that we are gonna need a pattern aswell on the software cause I didn't found one. I don't have the car in the same region to look at it. Regards,

and that brown wire of your harness is what? If you don't have ground on that brown wire the voltages that send through the 0-5v signal its going to be off. Probably thats why your ecu is reading odd.

Hi, Post your rom and a datalog, so we can check. Regards

When you wire the an+ to the ecu, did you wire the an- (brown cable on the AEM X Series) to ground?

Actually is almost the same, where is that you are havin problems exactly?