Vaughan

Yes and you can get a decent a non latched launch control using a GP RPM Limit

So Antilag is for maintaining boost while off throttle and is aimed at rally style racing where they need the power back quickly, it requires some way of bypassing extra air when off throttle such as a large idle valve, an E-Throttle or a permanently cracked throttle. Antilag also has a cyclic idle function that exists so that you can still idle the car when it has the throttle body held open but this is more aimed at vehicles with permanently cracked throttles. The phrase "Rolling Antilag" is often used to mean rolling launch control where you open the throttle fully and it holds the car's speed while it builds boost. Anti-lag is for off throttle stuff through corners, rolling launch control is for building boost while maintaining a set speed.

When you say rolling antilag do you mean the Latched Launch control mode? If so you could set up your launch control as the latched mode and one of your GP RPM Limits as your fixed RPM launch.

Downloading and installing G4+ PCLink and looking at the test calculator in the CAN Setup window should give you a good starting point. You can also figure it out if you have some known values in the ECU and matched values from the CAN message.

Note injector pins on the Voodoo can only support 5A

You'll still need to set the Driving and/or Driven Wheel speed appropriately same as any other wheel speed and if you are using an aftermarket CAN dash with one of the built in streams they only send individual wheel speed runtimes so you would want to set it up in a wheel speed instead of in a GP Speed (or set it up in both with the same selected input).

The Link calibration is number of teeth per 100m, this would be a value of 500 based on your 5000/km value above. No idea what you mean by '83Hz' as the speed input is coming in as a varying frequency. Also note the value of 500 will be correct for the displayed unit in the ECU, i.e. it will be correct regardless of whether you have set your speed unit to km/h or m/h

Ah, didn't realise that pull in thing was a table, maybe just try for 4A worth of ballast if you can't find suitable peak and hold hardware.

Holding current of 2.68A and a Pull-in current with no value is the smoking gun there that it uses a peak and hold drive. To get 2.68A at 14V you would want a ballast resistor of 4.5ohm, not using a ballast resistor over using a peak and hold driver will slow the response of the solenoid.

I suspect the Life Racing ECU had a peak and hold driver on that injector output, a look at your settings should confirm this and show what Peak and Hold Current values it was using. The proper solution is to have a configurable peak and hold driver between the ECU output and the fuel pump and this hardware is often included in the injector drive box (or at least it is for things like the GT86, IS350 etc and is how the Link DI Driver has been designed). I am unsure on where to acquire a single peak and hold driver. One possible solution would be to add a ballast resistor to reduce the current draw but I am unsure what this would do to the solenoid opening time. About 2.8ohm of ballast would bring the current down to a more appropriate 4A and it would need to be rated for at least 12W.

You will need to scope the current and voltage curve of the injectors and Fuel Pump Solenoid as the factory ECU drives them so that you know the correct settings to use for that. I would assume the trigger pattern will match something we have already done or that it is possible to do with our generic settings. From memory the wastegate on those motors is a H-Bridge controlled electronic one, the ECU can supply enough current to drive it and you could control it as E-Throttle 2 in the ECU with some success but I have heard they can be a pain with having to recalibrate the zero position on the go due to expansion and contraction of the linkage from the heat. Do you know if they have any other particular odd or different hardware on those motors?

Is the PDM Output on the high side constantly on or is it doing some current control where it will limit the current to a sensible number like less than 5A? (without just turning the output off) If you just have the PDM output on the whole time with it only limited to 20A and you have the ECU output connected to the lowside then you will kill the ECU output and possibly your solenoid too. Wired like the below diagram will kill the ECU drive If you have the ECU output going into the PDM and then the PDM output and good solid ground connected to the solenoid you will not kill the ECU drive and you could PWM the Solenoid at a high frequency to reduce the power it is sinking. You would want to make sure that you turn off the output when ECU wasn't powered on.

0.7ohm at 14V is 20A, this will blow an ignition drive immediately if you are not using peak and hold hardware in between the ECU output and the solenoid. You will also kill your fuel pump solenoid if you run 20A through it. Do you have any of the data for the pump peak and hold currents?

Do you know the resistance of your DI Pump Solenoid? Is it an NO or an NC pump? It should work fine as long as the resistance is high enough that you aren't putting too much current through the injector drive, not using peak and hold will just mean you are putting a little more heat into the solenoid. There should be more documentation coming, is there any specific documentation that you would particularly like to see or any particular locations in the help manual or website that you think documentation is lacking?

A 3 pin coolant temp sensor from that age of Japanese vehicle typically has one ground pin and two different temperature sensors within it, one for the dash cluster and one for the ECU. So yes if removing it you will need to wire a spare PWM capable aux from the ECU to the dash temperature wire to control the dash temp. Or alternatively fit that sensor elsewhere in addition to your new sensor.

All G4X EVO 4-8 plugins should have Aux 9&10 and several Analog inputs on one of the expansion connectors specifically so that you can add E-Throttle, no external H-Bridge necessary.

Setup mode deliberately doesn't throw errors so you can tune it, attach a copy of your tune and a PC Log with the issue happening in it.

The issue you are having will be that bug then, current work around for it is to change your staging mode from Sec/Pri Flow Ratio to Specified Flow Rate which allows you to put in actual injector flow data. ~1375cc/min at 300kPa would be about right based on your current ratio. The bug has been fixed already and the fix will be in the next release.

Googling images of the sensor shows me a lot of 3 pin ones but if yours is a 2 pin does it have another sensor like the green circled one below?

To clarify the difference between your new log and old log is that those two lines used to be overlaid and now they are different to each other? Can you clarify which variables you are watching (e.g. effective pw or duty cycle etc) Do you have a copy of the old log you can attach and do you know what firmware was in the ECU when you took the old log?

To clarify what engine do you have and does it have a separate coolant temp sensor for the dash cluster and the ECU and if so are you removing the sensor associated with the dash cluster or the sensor wired to the ECU. I think I might have misunderstood you here somewhere and assumed you were removing the coolant gauge sensor but on re-reading I might have been misinterpreting what you were saying.

You'll need to look at your pinout and find one of Aux1-8 that is not being used for something you want, AC Relay on your main ECU header is the only one I can see.

Did you also happen to update firmware? There is a bug in the latest firmware with Staged injection in modelled with sec/pri ratio that I managed to introduce while adding all the DI code, we have fixed it here but don't have a released version of the fix. Can you attach a copy of your log please so I can see if your issue is indeed that bug.

Vast majority of pump solenoids require peak and hold drivers. I assume you are currently using an external driver box for the injectors as well?