Vaughan

if the lobe is at 1deg btdc and you have 3 lobes then you can use 239deg

not test timing, just check coils and the timing light. Couple of other things in your tune, you have the GTR fuel setup in the ECU where it uses TPS on the fuel table axis but if you're not using ITBs you're better off with pressure on the axis. The GTS sample map is probably a better starting point for fuel stuff so maybe do a compare and copy fuel and maybe ignition stuff across. Your Master Fuel setting probably needs to be more like 8ms because 26dett injectors are almost double the flow rate of 20det ones according to the internet.

You can measure the cam height entirely based on the crank angle, you would want to make sure you keep the tension in one direction. or measure the cam with a dial gauge on the cam and then just relate peak of cam to crank dial gauge. You can also play with settings while it is running to further confirm or adjust things like the lobe center angle and it should be reasonably easy to get it all working well with the PID Loop and feed forward table. The most important bit of data is the lobe center angle, the actual shape of the cam lobe while important doesn't need to be incredibly accurate.

Either change the hotside feed to the relay trigger to an ignition switch supply or use a spare Ignition or Injection pin instead of a normal Aux pin to trigger the relay. Aux pins backfeed when fed power while the ECU is off.

How have you wired it? Have you got the DI6 pullup turned on or off? Have you been watching the DI6 frequency runtime or the Turbo Speed runtime as the DI6 frequency runtime might be easier to see movement on.

correct, it converts your Fahrenheit value to Celsius before putting it into the ECU's table which has a limited resolution and then converts back the actual value it takes to Fahrenheit to display.

It will but I would advise checking how they wired their engine by looking at what each input and output is set to in their tune to see if they are in different places. If your pinout doesn't match his can then you can copy settings from the it but I wouldn't recommend loading it into your ECU.

your log shows it trying to spark and inject fuel, for timing light you will need to put an ignition lead between the coil and the spark plug and clamp the pickup over that, you can use the ignition test function to test your wiring, coil and timing light without cranking the engine. What makes you think it is not injecting fuel? What size injectors do you have?

That log shows it is trying to run, next up confirm your timing with a timing light. Was this engine running on the Link previously with the factory sensor?

You're going to need to reduce your trigger 1 arming voltage, I have attached the values from my RB30DET Stagea with a Yelsha D kit. Rest of the trigger settings look good. After making those changes take a PC Log of an attempt to start it and attach that here.

scope looks good enough, attach a copy of your tune so I can check the settings please.

The help manual is in PCLink, pressing F1 takes you to help for the thing you currently have selected. I have attached an example picture of how the setup is done.

Not really as there is no way to know what engine speed you are matching to as you can't account for torque converter slip and you need to reduce torque to whatever the TCU requests. Would make sense for DCT or SCT transmissions but not traditional autos

Have you gone into the ECU Settings and setup each of the appropriate An Volt and AN Temp inputs?

The VVT also appears to be intake cam only and looks like a standard hydraulic control

Pictures of the components and their plugs/connectors will help, any information on what trigger pattern it uses would also be useful but we should be able to do a custom pattern if it's not covered by existing ones Does your engine have port injectors or direct injectors? Wikipedia says direct but also shows some engines with port injectors and some with Direct The best picture from the internet that I've managed to find looks like the manifold thing is just a switched not continuously variable, I have seen a similarish looking setup on Toyota 2GR-FE's where they have the plenum split in half with half to one bank and half to the other so you effectively have long runners when divided as intake strokes are alternating bank to bank and when you move the flap making the plenum a single chamber you effectively have short runners. Also shows port injectors on this particular manifold

Given the ECU isn't cutting or hitting trigger errors and the timing comes back fine and there is no audible miss I would definitely be leaning towards it being something mechanical.

The right hand cam is reporting errors in your log but it also looks like you aren't trying to use them as targets are always at 0.

Do you have any old logs to compare against? VVT or non VVT motor?

Misfires will show up as lean, your log isn't showing any trigger errors or cuts. Is it lethargic and does it run any different than it used to below 5000rpm? Can you hear a misfire? Have you done a compression test? Are any of the injectors leaking? Can you confirm ignition timing with a timing light?

Looking at our schematic the primary O2 sensor is narrowband and so no good for determining anything other than stoich, you will need to add an external wideband for proper Closed Loop Lambda

Working on it atm.

Not uncommon for trigger signals to swap like that, attach a PC Log of when you are running into this 5500rpm limit under load

yeah if it's still doing the same thing with the idle position massively reduced that sounds like an air leak. maybe disconnect any itnake piping from the throttle body so you don't have the super charger contributing to any surging and then start checking things like throttle stop, brake booster vacuum line etc