Vaughan

These are settings so they are found in the ECU Settings tab on the left had side of the PCLink window. Your screenshot shows the runtime view which contains a bunch of the runtime values and statuses which are feedback as to what various functions are doing.

Sorry yes An Volt 8. Open Loop Lambda correction is adjusting Pulsewidth based on target Lambda and should be on, Closed Loop Lambda adjusts pulsewidth based on feedback from the actual Lambda value trying to correct it to the target Lambda and should be off at the moment. Fuel -> Closed Loop Lambda -> Closed Loop Lambda -> lambda Mode. Idle Loop Control in open loop is fine, just means the output is based entirely on the tables and settings and doesn't look at actual engine speed and then apply a trim on top of the values to correct engine speed to target. Note you never actually enter idle speed proper as you are always in RPM Lockout because you have too much air getting into the engine so closed loop vs open loop idle speed control wouldn't matter in that log. You need to go to Idle Speed Control -> Idle Base Position Table and reduce the values in it and see if that brings the engine speed down to an appropriate level.

I would say start by reducing your idle position, that log shows it at 78% the entire time. If lowering the idle position right down doesn't bring the engine speed down enough then you have an air leak that you will need to find and sort I also suspect that there is something wrong with your Lambda input on An Volt 9 as 0.5 Lambda would normally stall the engine and you have closed loop Lambda using this value which looks incorrect. Probably turn off CLL while trying to solve this issue too.

Attach a PC Log of it happening and a copy of your tune please. It does sound like it is getting too much air to idle though but seeing what the idle position and statuses are doing is important for diagnosing the exact issue.

That's the trigger scope again, I want a log of all the runtimes to see what is happening, hit F8 or the Red box in the top right that says "PC Log = Off" to start it and same again to stop then Logging -> Save Log.

A Monsoon could most likely run it but you would have to us a group or semi sequential injection mode and you would be limited on inputs and outputs. A Storm would be on the cheaper end and would allow sequential injection and direct spark but would require an external H-Bridge if adding E-Throttle later if you decided to. An Xtreme would have a bit more IO than the Storm and allow for internal E-Throttle control if you decided to fit that. The whole G4X range shares the same software and there is a slight difference in feature availability with the larger ECUs having more of the higher end motorsport features. Downloading PCLink and reading the help manual is a good idea if you want to familiarise yourself with how things work and you can load to various sample maps to see what's possible with each ECU type before purchasing one. Biggest thing to decide on before buying an ECU is how many sensors and outputs you want as this is often the restriction with smaller ECUs not having as many pins and so not being able to do as many things. In terms of sensors I would suggest: ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) - vital for protections and correcting fuel for engine temperature, uses 1 An Temp pin or an An Volt with a pullup resistor to 5v. IAT (Intake Air Temp) - not strictly necessary but really good for correcting required fuel based on intake air charge density, uses 1 An Temp pin or an An Volt with a pullup resistor to 5v. TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) - If using a single throttle body you can use MAP for your load and so this isn't required but it can be nice for Accel Fuel and it is useful for Idle speed control (you'll want to fit some kind of air bypass if using a mechanical throttle), uses 1 An Volt. MAP - absolutely required with forced induction and is typically the input used as engine load, uses 1 An Volt or is built into the Monsoon. Fuel Pressure - Not absolutely required but very useful for diagnosing problems and can save engines when used to correct injection pulse for varying fuel pressure, uses 1 An Volt. Oil Pressure - not used for tuning but very useful for logging, protections and for indicating to the driver when there is an issue, much better to use a sensor than a switch as you can match pressure to engine speed, uses 1 An Volt. Oil Temp - not used for tuning but very useful for logging, often you can see the affect of Oil Temp on Oil pressure, uses 1 An Temp pin or an An Volt with a pullup resistor to 5v. Some form of wheel speed - useful for idle and logging, uses a Digital input (DI). Wideband O2 - need a controller between the sensors and the ECU, aim for a controller that can talk to the ECU over CAN rather than an analog voltage level, can do one per bank or just one after a collector. One per bank can be nice for seeing variations between banks and can narrow down issues like misses. VVT Cam inputs - use Trig 2 and DI1-4, variable cam control is very good for getting more mid range out of an engine. Common outputs would be: Fuel Pump - typically just switched to ground to trigger a relay. Tachometer - a PWM signal. Engine Fans - typically just switched to ground to trigger a relay but can also do PWM control via solid state relays or fan controllers. CE Light or other warning lights - typically just ground switched. Speedometer - if you have an electric speedo you can read the signal from the box, correct for different wheel diameters and send an adjusted signal to the cluster. VVT Cam solenoids - use PWM capable outputs (Aux, Ign or Inj pins), very good for adding midrange power, intake cams are typically more important than exhaust cams.

Because that says stroke start angles you will most likely need to add the total stroke length to the stroke start angle to get the peak of the lobe for entering into the Link's Lobe centerline setting.

Yes you need to use lowercase at the moment, I have brought this up previously and there is a ticket in the system to make it not care about upper vs lower case and this should be fixed in the next release.

Making the factory TCM work with the Link would require decoding of the factory CAN bus and a new CAN mode in the Link, this is because the Link will need to send appropriate Engine Speed and torque info to the TCU for it to do it's job properly. Note this wouldn't be tuning the TCM, just providing it with the information to do it's job properly. If you wanted to actually tune the TCM you'll need to look into flashing it (would still require the ECU to emulate the factory CAN bus) or using an aftermarket trans controller (might cause issues with other modules like the dash cluster, DSC etc if it is no longer transmitting the factory messages). If you have time and motivation decoding the factory CAN bus is usually possible and @Adam can most likely provide help with tools and knowledge for this otherwise piggyback would be the only option in a complete vehicle. If you can get enough of the factory CAN bus info decoded we can make a new CAN mode for it.

Can you attach a PCLog from an attempted start please

Does it have smart coil/s or dumb coil/s with igniter/s? where is the ECU located in the vehicle?

Can you attach a PC Log of a start attempt please A trigger scope would not be a bad idea either.

Either MAP or MGP will work, there is some specific reason for using one over the other to do with altitude changes but I can't remember the reasoning off the top of my head.

Are you using dwell times appropriate for the coils and igniters? Are you the igniters bolted to heatsinks? How does the failure present itself, melted plastic and deformation or just simply stops working but no visible change?

Based on your screenshot I can see that Aux 5 should be active but the logic in gp output 9 looks fine. I can't replicate your issue with gp output 6 or 9. Could you take a video of how to replicate or cause the issue so that we can see the status and settings changes in real time? Can you confirm the actual firmware version in the ECU please.

Do you know how this is electrically controlled? Is it controlled using an H-Bridge in the same style as an E-Throttle or does it use a single PWM feed with some form of feedback or does it use a stepper motor? Pictures of the mechanism and plugs may help with determining this. My assumption would be H-Bridge/E-Throttle style. Is there any electronic control of the supplemental pressure system other than the cam solenoids themselves?

As replied on the other new thread you made: Your trigger 2 is wired backwards so fix that. If that doesn't fix it then take a trigger scope at higher rpm and if possible higher load to see if noise is showing up in the scope.

In this particular case you are actually partially powering up the ECU with the 12V through the relay into the Aux 4. If you need to have a constant feed on the other side of the relay trigger then use a spare ignition or injection pin rather than a standard Aux pins as standard Aux pins backfeed.

Your trigger 2 is wired up the wrong way around, this may not solve the issue but would be a good first step. A trigger scope at a higher rpm closer to where the issue is occuring would show if there is any noise coming in on the triggers which could be causing it.

Your attached image isn't working for me, what item or service are you after and what ECU do you have?

To create a new mixture map: To change which log you are looking at use the log file manager (stop the old log and start a new one each time):

Use an An Volt for the pressure signal (pin 2), Use an An Temp for the Temperature signal (Pin 5), Signal ground to pin 4, +5V to pin 3. Neither of your expansion looms has a temp pin and only the 2nd one has An Volts. You could use one of the An Volts on the 2nd expansion plug plus a pullup resistor wired to 5V as a temp input. You will need to find a 5V in the engine loom from somewhere like the TPS. Your pictures show the earlier S2000 bottom board, the later design (bottom board V1.6 onwards) has all the required pins on expansion 2.

if you do the timing light test with the set base timing window open while connected to the ECU then it forces it to that angle which can be more reliable than trying to set tables and trims. If the ignition angle with a timing light matches the angle specified in the Ignition Angle runtime then it is the correct offset, do note that there can be some variance in timing marks on covers so you can check actual measured tdc against the cover marks if you are unsure. You need to use a throttle stop yes to set an appropriate amount of air flow, then calibrate the TPS and then you can use ignition idle to move it around within a small range around that.

Completely depends on which coil packs you are using. If they are smart coils they have an igniter built in, if they are not then they need an igniter.

Is the other side of the fan relay trigger wired to constant power instead of an ignition switched power?