Vaughan

GP Speed 1 should be showing units, GP Speed 2-4 do, I'll look into that

E-Throttle 2 should be off as you only controlling one physical throttle (as far as I'm aware) and I've corrected the math block, note the reason for changing the value to 207 is because math blocks always deal with the raw values in the ECU which are in kPa not psi regardless of what the displayed units are in PCLink. Your requirements are a bit overkill for a mathblock though, I would tend to use a GP Output and a virtual aux for this purpose as shown in the picture below. Note this setup allows you to use psi units as the gp output conditions have their values change with displayed units and you could also use the On Delay and Off Delay values to control how long the pressure has to be low for before it trips and how long it will hold the fault e-throttle before it goes back to normal. You can also add other conditions to the same GP Output to trigger the same E-Throttle table based on your other fault conditions. If you want it to stay in fault state until power cycle this can also be done, let me know if you want an example of this (add another condition with an OR between them and the extra condition being that virtual Aux 1 is active). Is your fuel system returnless or do you have a manifold pressure reference to your fuel pressure regulator? if you fuel pressure is referenced against manifold pressure you will want to use "Differential Fuel Pressure" instead of "Fuel Pressure". With regards to your E-Throttle Target tables they should have 0% target for 0% throttle with the Idle Speed Control setup set to E-Throttle instead of solenoid and then the Idle Speed Control can do all the 0% APS throttle control as pictured below. You will need to retune all your idle base positions, offsets and integral.

So it isn't the frequency that simulates the signal it is the varying Duty Cycle. The ECU output is being turned on (grounded) and off (floating) at a fixed frequency which is high enough the gauge doesn't see the frequency but you are varying the percentage of time that it is on vs off within that fixed frequency, if it is on a higher percentage of time the gauge is grounded a higher percentage of time and so it acts like a lower resistance between the gauge signal wire and ground. Picture example of duty cycle stolen from the internet shown below. You don't need to keep the oil pressure switch, you can use another output from the ECU wired to the oil light switch wire that you set to ground below a certain pressure. I actually prefer to have the oil light be ECU controlled because you can then have the light come on at different pressures depending on the engine speed. In my cars I often use a mathblock to calculate oil pressure/1000rpm and then turn on the light if oil pressure/1000rpm is both less than 70(kPa/1000rpm) and oil pressure is less than say 350kPa, the reason for the two conditions is oil pressure usually tops out when it hits the pump pressure release.

Hard to tell without a log but if you aren't seeing any frequency show up on the DI 3 Frequency runtime then you might need to turn on the DI 3 pullup. To swap between metric and imperial units in PCLink press the 'U' key, which units are used in each mode can be configured in the Options dropdown -> Units -> Options. Note when using a speed or some other unit that visually changes in PCLink in math blocks the ECU will be using the metric value not necessarily the displayed value. The speed calibration number is number of pulses per 100m as specified in the help manual, selecting any setting and pressing F1 will take you to the help for that setting.

Attach a copy of the tune you are using, a short PCLog of an attempted start and a trigger scope taken while it is cranking. Have you confirmed all inputs and outputs work? Have you used a timing light to calibrate the trigger offset?

I have done this before for factory water temp gauges, you can use a GP PWM function and a spare PWM capable output to control that style of gauge. Set it to a very high frequency and then adjust the duty cycle until the gauge matches the ECU. Note you can calibrate the gauge with the engine off as you can just adjust the value in the 0kPa cell to see what oil pressures on the gauge different duty cycles give and fill out the table from there. 100% will be full grounded in the below example picture. Just realised you have a G4+, above image is to suit G4X, here is a G4+ example

I'm not sure how much cam swing you have but the below settings should sort you for always syncing in the right spot, should probably take some more trigger scopes, one at full advance and one at full retard on intake, when it is running to confirm but looks good for now. For the VVT setup you should make the below changes in red. For the VVT Solenoid frequency if you have access to a factory vehicle you could scope it to see what it uses or you could maybe try 250Hz which is what I used on my 2GR, unless of course you have documentation stating a different required frequency. You will of course still need to do the trigger offset with a timing light once you've made those trigger setting changes and don't forget that the angle you find with the timing light could be correct or it could be 360degrees out.

You can see the actual voltage on the TPS input pin on the Link ECU so I would start by looking at that value and then seeing if it moves with throttle movement. If the value stays down near 0v the whole time even when the throttle blade is being moved then you will need to look into your TPS sensor and it's wiring. TPS sensor can be tested with a multimeter and wiring can be checked by seeing if it has 5v and ground where it should and by jumping each of these one at a time to the signal wire to see if the reading changes in the ECU. To see the TPS voltage in the Link ECU you need to connect to it with PCLink, press F12 to bring up the Runtime Values window and then navigate to the Analog tab where you should see An Volt 3 set up as TPS (for the EVO 9 plugin) with the raw voltage of it showing.

you can use any spare ECU output to control a relay that will flick the fan on and you can use the Engine Fan function in the ECU to control the coolant temperature at which the fan will switch on and off. If you are using one of the Aux outputs make sure that the power supply to the other side of the fan relay coil comes from an ignition switched source, if using a spare injector or ignition output to control the fan relay that relay coil supply can be always hot if desired. If you've deleted the AC you might be able to use the AC Compressor output from the ECU and maybe even use the AC relay if it is capable of supplying the required current.

Your trigger scope shows the triggers aren't syncing properly, the Trigger 1 state keeps dropping back to idle every engine cycle. Can you attach a copy of the basemap that you were using when you took that trigger scope please.

There is a big spike in your trigger 1 signal that shouldn't be there and it is causing a trigger error which will be the source of your misfire, I usually assume that noise from the ignition coils causes this kind of thing but @Adamw will probably be able to provide more in depth insight.

Can you please attach a copy of your basemap and a PCLog of an attempted TPS calibration.

I think you'll find you're not able to control the throttle blade to any smaller resolution than 0.1% (1000 divisions across the full range) anyway so larger resolution in idle settings wouldn't help. If you are having issues with an oscillating idle the ignition idle control is excellent at smoothing the idle out and operates faster than the E-Throttle can.

you need to change those links to allow access

setup looks correct and I can't see any issues on the CAN bus, can you find the Link CAN Lambda in the CAN Devices tab of the CAN Setup window? have you checked if you have power and ground to the CAN Lambda with a multimeter?

Swap Trigger 2 to the exhaust cam and take another scope, the K20 and K24 use the exhaust cam for sync and your current trigger 2 signal isn't usable for sync as Adam has said

An Volt 2 does not output anything. An Temp 2 has a built in configurable pullup to 5V You may expect that but that is not how that works. How have you wired your ECT sensor?

That looks like a 60-2 crank trigger which is nothing like what a normal K20 or K24 has, does this engine have an aftermarket crank trigger wheel on it?

So Temperature sensors have a resistance that varies with temperature, most temperature sensors are NTC (Negative thermal Coefficient) where the hotter they are the lower the resistance across them. When wiring the temperature sensor you wire one side to sensor ground and the other to an An Temp or an An Volt input into the ECU. The An Temp inputs have a built in pullup to 5V and when using An Volt inputs you need to wire in an external pullup to 5v. This setup operates like a resistor divider where you have a fixed resistance from 5V to the ECU signal pin and a varying resistance (the temperature sensor) between the ECU signal pin and sensor ground. The colder the sensor gets the higher it's resistance and so the closer to 5V the ECU signal gets, the hotter the sensor gets the lower it's resistance and so the closer to signal ground the ECU signal gets. If you are seeing 5V on both sides of the temperature sensor plug while the sensor is plugged in this means your signal ground is not connected. Picture attached shows how an external pullup resistor is added, the An Temp inputs all have internal pullups connected in the same way. Also re-reading your post it reads like you might have deliberately wired it to have an An Temp on side of the temperature sensor and a 5V supply on the other side, if you have done this then you need to change the 5V supply to a signal ground.

Can you attach a trigger scope and let me know what trigger mode you had it set to when you took that trigger scope please.

Something isn't right in the trigger setup and I would lean towards it being that you are using the Honda K20 VTC trigger mode instead of the Honda K24 VCT mode, if you hit the little A->Z button in the top left of the Trigger Mode selection window it will show you them in alphabetical order so you can find the K24 mode quickly.

Do you have the timing light trigger of the ignition loom wire loop? You typically need to have it over an ignition lead between the coil and spark plug instead of over that timing loop.

preferably the actual saved log file, ECU Controls -> Trigger Scope, click capture while cranking, save and attach file here

K24 and K20 have different crank sensor pinouts, can you take a trigger scope while cranking and attach it here please.

if you setup a timer to go from say 0-10 and then have it never reset you could set each light to be on based on your normal conditions OR (timer > 2/4/6/8s AND timer < 10) using GP Outputs Or to get them to flash maybe make them GP PWMs with that timer but set to say 15s on one axis of the DC table with 0% at 0s, 100% from 2/4/6/8s till like 10s and then 50% for another few seconds until the timer is done and set the frequency value to suit your flashing. Or alternatively if you have all the increase and flash already setup to suit your engine speed and you just want to do that then feed it tacho frequency instead of engine speed in your setup so that it moves with the tacho sweep.