Vaughan

The issue you are having will be that bug then, current work around for it is to change your staging mode from Sec/Pri Flow Ratio to Specified Flow Rate which allows you to put in actual injector flow data. ~1375cc/min at 300kPa would be about right based on your current ratio. The bug has been fixed already and the fix will be in the next release.

Googling images of the sensor shows me a lot of 3 pin ones but if yours is a 2 pin does it have another sensor like the green circled one below?

To clarify the difference between your new log and old log is that those two lines used to be overlaid and now they are different to each other? Can you clarify which variables you are watching (e.g. effective pw or duty cycle etc) Do you have a copy of the old log you can attach and do you know what firmware was in the ECU when you took the old log?

To clarify what engine do you have and does it have a separate coolant temp sensor for the dash cluster and the ECU and if so are you removing the sensor associated with the dash cluster or the sensor wired to the ECU. I think I might have misunderstood you here somewhere and assumed you were removing the coolant gauge sensor but on re-reading I might have been misinterpreting what you were saying.

You'll need to look at your pinout and find one of Aux1-8 that is not being used for something you want, AC Relay on your main ECU header is the only one I can see.

Did you also happen to update firmware? There is a bug in the latest firmware with Staged injection in modelled with sec/pri ratio that I managed to introduce while adding all the DI code, we have fixed it here but don't have a released version of the fix. Can you attach a copy of your log please so I can see if your issue is indeed that bug.

Vast majority of pump solenoids require peak and hold drivers. I assume you are currently using an external driver box for the injectors as well?

not without changing all your ignition outputs to fire at tdc instead of a variable angle beforehand. Don't forget you will have multiple lobes per engine cycle (often 3 lobes for 4cyl) and those lobes are spread across two crank revolutions as it is a 4 stroke motor.

Definitely focus on just turning the output on with a peak and hold driver sometime before the start of the lobe and then use the start of the ECU's output as your off point then. Note the pressure sensor is read synchronously by the ECU.

You'll want to power the output on maybe 5deg before the start of the lobe and then off partway through the lobe at the point that the remaining amount of lobe to the top of it is the amount of fuel that you want. So the start point is constant relative to the lobe with the end point getting closer to the peak of the lobe for less fuel and closer to the start of the lobe for more fuel. In an NO you would be off until the same point as the end of the NC pulse and then on for a set number of degrees before the pump holds the solenoid shut with the pressure it has built up. This means your pulse is always the same length in degrees with the start of the pulse moving towards the peak of the lobe for less fuel and towards the start of the lobe for more fuel, turn it on too early though and you'll get no fuel as it won't build enough pressure within the hold angle to hold the valve shut. Can you fit an NO style pump to the car? If you do your own software solution note that you need to keep track of the VVT angle of the cam that is controlling the pump as well as the crank position.

Best solution I can recommend is to move to the G5 setup that supports NC pumps natively. The pump control stuff is quite complicated with a few important differences between the NC and NO control methods, very specific timing requirements as it is all synchronous to engine speed and fuel pump solenoids also often require peak and hold drivers.

The files are deliberately stored as binary to protect the IP within them including things like password locking. Access to the raw settings would also enable all kinds of issues with altering values by hand instead of through PCLink. There are thousands of settings in there and a lot of them interlink with other settings in complicated ways.

You have ISC override off and so unless you are playing games with your E-throttle target tables you most likely won't be opening the throttle enough to flow enough air to build that extra boost, the retard and cut is used to keep torque down but keep air flow high to spool the turbo. You will also most likely want APS not TPS on the axis of your tables as you will be increasing TPS to create flow and APS represents the driver request better.

Through Tech support would be the other way, I have had this tab (along with a bunch of others) sitting open for a while now but haven't gotten around to looking through it properly as there is always a lot to do.

If it is a G4X then ignore the other information I gave you about external E-Throttle wiring as that was specific to G4+, you need to use either Aux 1&2 or Aux 3&4 as the E-Throttle output and an extra Aux to be the relay.

PWM stands for Pulse Width Modulation which is when the output is switched on and off at a constant frequency and you can vary how long it is on as a proportion of each pulse. Aux 1-8 are all PWM capable and have GP PWM as an option in their function lists. I've attached an example below, you will need to alter the numbers in the table to suit your dash gauge, just do it bit by bit when increasing the values as the gauge doesn't have a linear response.

Is it an E-Throttle or cable throttle engine/loom?

One thing to watch out for is Aux 5 & Aux 6 in the pnp both have hardware to make them high-side drives instead of low side so maybe double check how much current the VTEC solenoid and intake runner output draw to make sure the built in high side outputs in your ECU can drive them properly. (Storm and bigger ECUs have built in high side drivers on Aux 5-8).

You appear to have posted this in several places, I have answered one of your posts in the G4+ forum, can you confirm which ECU you have? G4, G4+ or G4X as the generation does change how it is done.

pinout of the main header can be found here: https://linkecu.com/documentation/E36X.pdf (this is the G4X manual but it has a more complete main header pinout). The internal H-Bridge pins aren't exposed on this pnp so you will have to use an external E-Throttle driver (https://dealers.linkecu.com/G4RET) with one of Aux 1-4 and one of Aux 5-8 wired to it plus an extra Aux for the E-Throttle relay and you will need to find an extra 3 An Volt inputs to be used for APS and TPS inputs. Alternatively you can get in touch with Tech Support and get it sent back for modification to expose the internal H-Bridge pins.

So you most likely won't be able to connect the bosch temperature sensor directly to the coolant gauge in the dash but you can connect a spare PWM capable Aux to the dash sensor wire and use a gp PWM table where you vary the DC with coolant temp to move the dash gauged around. I did this on my V6 swapped MR2 as I didn't have any appropriate locations for the factory dash gauge temperature sensor.

Have you got access to a CAN device that you could attach to the bus and sniff the messages with? This would allow us to see what messages are present on the bus when both devices are connected.

To reduce how far it moves you would need to open it up and do something to limit travel, to increase range you would need to open it up and reduce whatever limits it's range. If you want to be able to control it's position to anywhere within the current range you will need to fit some kind of cam sensor setup to both intake cams and a different style of cam gear and most likely a different actuator. You might find it is easier to move to the VQ platform than it is to retro fit a proper VVT setup though. A better solution might be to make the tooth angle adjustable so you can dial your cams in to make the best use of both sides of that ~20deg swing (https://boostdoc.com.au/products/rb25-s1-s2-neo-diy-adjustable-vct-intake-gear-kit). Regardless make sure you don't make the pistons and valves kiss.

https://conceptzperformance.com/wiki/index.php/Variable_Timing_Control this page says about 20deg

As far as I'm aware the VG30dett is just switched cams not continuously variable and so would use a gp output rather than the VVT functionality.