Vaughan

The plugin for this was tested on a local car, trigger pinout will be based on that car. The link wants the reluctor signal to go high first and then uses the zero crossing on the falling edge to sync, wouldn't surprise me if the Honda ECU wants it to go low first and then uses the zero crossing on the rising edge to sync. Correct polarity can be confirmed by doing a trigger scope.

You can select the Inlet bank 1 cam in the cam angle test to check the actual angles it is seeing (angle of each tooth shows up in the 'Cam Angle #x runtimes'), maybe try adjusting the duty cycle output on Aux 1 using a gp pwm to see if you can make it move at all, odd for it to be consistently sitting somewhere other than 0deg especially after a successful calibration as that implies that when you do the cam calibration it moves to 0 and then moves back to the 9deg after.

Will also crank over faster and get better spark with the spark plugs out making it easier to get it timed before the battery runs out of juice

Sweet, I didn't see anything obvious other than the VVT not working correctly so I would start by running the calibration on that in VVT Control -> VVT Setup -> Cam Angle Test -> Calibrate, it'll turn itself off after it's done, you can watch the status of the cam in the VVT tab of the runtime view (F12 or R to bring the runtime view up), this needs to be done while above the VVT engine speed and ECT lockouts. I assume you've set the timing with a timing light? I've also attached a copy of the last tune I have from my car before I sold it, was a G4X Fury (so different pinout than the plugin) on a 1.8 VVT motor with factory coils, 36-2 crank wheel, G19 turbo manifold, TD04HL turbo and 700cc injectors. Note it was a modelled tune so the fuel table numbers won't be particularly relevant. What injectors are you running out of curiosity? last copy of tune 9-5-2023.pclx I did find when tuning mine that I had difficulty accounting for how heat soaked the intake manifold gets when you've been sitting idling, would be fine while running and driving but would come to a stop and the pre throttle IAT wouldn't noticeably change but the lambda would despite all else being equal, this might have been solvable by fitting the IAT sensor to the manifold instead of the pre throttle pipe so that the heat soak in the manifold is seen by the ECU

Injection is usually turned off during timing calibration for this reason.

Then get it tuned, the supplied sample map is only intended to be used for getting it started and I can see that the tune you are using isn't the Link sample map. Where did your tune come from if it wasn't done on your car?

The issue is to do with graphics drivers, the reason you see it on this particular build and not on previous builds will be because the issue is related to the graphics libraries as they were when that version of PCLink is compiled. If these libraries are updated between PCLink builds regardless of any change in our PCLink code then these issues can occur, we don't write the graphics drivers, just code that uses them. We are planning on doing a new PCLink and firmware release soon so hopefully the graphics issues will be fixed by that. The change was made so that people with the new G5 Voodoo Pro ECUs with Wifi could find and connect to them. It also means that instead of PCLink sitting there trying to connect to everything it can find, which is what it did previously, you can now direct it to connect to a particular device. There is a slight change coming for the next release where if Connection Port is set to USB and only one device is found during a regular connect attempt then it will try to connect directly to that. Shift + F3 will still do the full search.

Can't really help without a copy of your tune and a Pc log of the issue happening

You're trying to trigger the AC Clutch and Condenser Fan relays with a high side signal from inj5&6 which can only do low side control. Same issue with Thermofan on Aux 3. Aux 7 controlling the starte solenoid can do high side but you generally would try and use low side triggering for this. I would also recommend moving the coil power for the fuel pump relay and isc solenoid relay from the ignition switch signal to the ECU power side of the relay switch so that if the main relay fuse blows it doesn't power up those devices while the ECU is not powered causing all manner of weird back feeding issues. If it were me I would run Coils, Injectors, ISC Solenoid and ECU all off of one 30A capable relay and fuse, I only see separate relays for those things as added complications and added room for issues to occur with no real benefit. I would also have the power side of the coil for all other relays (fuel pump, starter, fans etc) coming from the ECU power on the ECU side of that relay. Your pinout also seems to be setup for an Xtreme not a Fury as you are trying to use B plug pin 30 as a digital input when it is one of the dedicated wideband pins on a Fury and you have a CAN based wideband instead of wiring the sensor directly to the ECU.

Is this a car that has previously been tuned and was running well and something has changed? I can see that your VVT isn't working properly

Your PC Log shows that it is trying to fire the coils and injectors. To get the trigger scope runtimes you need to use the ECU Controls -> Trigger SCope function and click capture while the engine is cranking.

Have you set the ignition timing with a timing light?

Have you done the APS calibration? Can you take a PC Log of you moving the pedal between 0% and 100% and attach it here please.

Doesn't look like it's flatlining, don't have your tune but assume you're max is set to 45deg. Which gauge do you have? Best way to connect it to ECU is CAN if that is an option, gauges with separate grounds for the ECU signal than the power ground are not terrible, gauges with no separate analog signal ground will always be terrible.

How accurate is the Lambda reading compared to the gauge? Seems very rich everywhere. Also the ECT Ignition trim is advancing the ignition angle not retarding it (positive values not negative).

Graphical issues are compiler related and so not something we can change in the code, more of a look to see if they have been fixed since by various updates to the build computer. It's also not something I've seen on my own computer so isn't necessarily going to be the easiest to test if it has been fixed. No current plans to remove the ECU selection box, it does work better in Manual mode as auto mode will try and fail when you power cycle ECU or disconnect and so lose the selected ECU. There are some setting around directories in the options menu with tick boxes and editable directory paths. Do you have the boxes ticked or not (ticked means always use that folder, unticked means go to last place you opened that type of file from). I don't think that setup changed at all on the G5 update stuff.

Which engine do you have? Quick google shows the RS3 uses the Bosch HDEV5.2 which we have the current and voltage data for. The RS3 high pressure fuel pump we don't explicitly have data for yet but a quick scope with a current trace will show it's peak and hold current values. You will also need to measure your high pressure pump cam lobe shape and find the angle of the top of one of the lobes relative to tdc of cyl 1 when cam is in it's rest position. Hardware wise we have 4cylinder box on the way with built in fuel pump peak and hold driver but I don't have any specific timing as to when this will be available to purchase. I would also assume that the XBow has a CAN bus system which will need reverse engineering so that we can replicate what the factory ECU transmits and receives.

We don't have any spare units left at this point but production should be starting soon, might be best to get in touch with the sales team to see if they can let you know when they'll have them available.

That's looking a lot happier and I can see you have the sensor wired the correct way around, it should spark correctly while cranking now.

that scope looks like you clicked capture before you started cranking instead of while you were cranking but it caught some teeth right at the end. Change your Trigger 1 arming voltage table 500RPM cell to 0.2V as your tooth voltage is pretty low.

pin #4 triggers the relay by going to ground when pin 36 is connected to ignition switched power. if you don't have the factory ECU this won't be happening though, to see if it fixes anything try grounding pin 4 and see if that turns on the power to various components on the engine

Your trigger settings are wrong, it never syncs properly. To confirm do you only have a 36-2 trigger wheel on the crank connected to Trigger 1 and nothing connected to trigger 2? How many wires does your trigger sensor have? 2 or 3? Do a trigger scope and attach it here, ecu controls -> Trigger scope and then press capture once the engine is cranking and keep cranking until the trace shows up, save it and attach here. Your more recent log does seem to show it syncing but I still want to see an actual trigger scope. You can test your timing light by doing an ignition test as this will just continually trigger the coil without needing to crank the car

sweet, trace it all out, to confirm though how have you determined there is no spark, have you removed a spark plug , fitted it to a coil, grounded the thread and turned on the ignition test? Or are you checking for spark with a timing light on the test loop?

If they're not firing when using the ignition test mode then you will need to check your wiring, are you still using the factory igniter?

That sounds a lot like the injectors not the coils. Is it the spark/coil that is not working or the injectors?