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Thunder PCLink settings


Mike928

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I've made some progress, mostly in learning the Link Thunder.

I've wired up the new Bosch 0 280 755 051 [2 pots] accelerator pedal and run the calibration successfully.

I then did the throttle body calibration successfully and the setup worked on PCLink, showing the throttles opening and closing, plus I could hear them. but the ECU still activates the 2 relays for the 2 throttle bodies and the relay for the fuel pump but shuts them off immediately? For a while Throttle #1 relay remained active [closed]. These are solid state relays that have an active/inactive LED on them, so it's easy to monitor.

I've checked the voltage at the supply for these relays and it's always been in the upper 12 volt range.

The other thing I note is that the 8 coils and the 8 injectors are always 'OFF'. As advised, I have powered the coils relay from an ignition source and confirmed the voltage in and out and powered the injectors from the same source as the ECU power, plug A pin 5.

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3 hours ago, Mike928 said:

I then did the throttle body calibration successfully and the setup worked on PCLink, showing the throttles opening and closing, plus I could hear them. but the ECU still activates the 2 relays for the 2 throttle bodies and the relay for the fuel pump but shuts them off immediately? For a while Throttle #1 relay remained active [closed]. These are solid state relays that have an active/inactive LED on them, so it's easy to monitor.

If if goes through calibration then it sounds like it is working properly.  The throttle relays will be switched off when the engine isn't running if you have it set to quiet mode.  The fuel pump relay should only activate for the set prime time then switch off until the engine is cranked.  

 

3 hours ago, Mike928 said:

The other thing I note is that the 8 coils and the 8 injectors are always 'OFF'. As advised, I have powered the coils relay from an ignition source and confirmed the voltage in and out and powered the injectors from the same source as the ECU power, plug A pin 5.

Im not too sure what you mean here?  Obviously the coils and injectors should be off when the engine isn't running.  Or are you meaning when you are trying to start it?  Attach a log if so.  

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22 hours ago, Adamw said:

If if goes through calibration then it sounds like it is working properly.  The throttle relays will be switched off when the engine isn't running if you have it set to quiet mode.  The fuel pump relay should only activate for the set prime time then switch off until the engine is cranked.  

 

I'm not too sure what you mean here?  Obviously the coils and injectors should be off when the engine isn't running.  Or are you meaning when you are trying to start it?  Attach a log if so.  

I haven't tried to start it yet Adam, that's why they switch off I guess. I'm cautious about the first start as I want things to be right. I've built quite a few motors over the years but this is my first jump into all electronic controls and programmable ECU, so I'm learning as I go.

I have my error count down to 3 from 20ish!

My big question would be 'when is it ready for me to try it?

 

The coils and injectors are just listed as all off and I was expecting them to be on as the are powered. Just my ignorance.

I am learning a lot though.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some progress to report. I got to no errors reported in PCLink however, in this state Ethrottle 1 opened as the AP went down while Ethrottle 2 went from open to closed, then the reverse for AP being released.

Immediately I thought it has to be reversed polarity, though I have checked and double checked this by unplugging both ends of the loom and proving continuity and verifying wire to plug pin on both ends, plus Ethrottle one is wired exactly as Ethrottle 2 and it works properly.

So I swapped Aux17 and Aux18 to try it anyway and Link was not happy with that. I got errors 98,99 and Ethrottle 2 relay dropped out, so I put the Aux 17 &18 back.

When I do throttle calibration, it all seems to work and is reported as complete but watching the throttle plates #2 doesn't move through the whole process.

I did have no recognition of trig 1 or trig 2 but some adjustment to the settings and the now go from NO to YES on crank but I'm getting no signal readings on voltages or scope screen?

A14 & A15 are both OFF, nothing there but they show red as 'Open Circuit" why?

Link-G4-Thunder-screen_02.jpg

Log 2023-11-21 5;32;36 pm.llg 928_Link_Thunder_E-throttles.pdf

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Can you attach a copy of the tune.  A PC log of a TPS calibration procedure would be useful also.  

For the aux 14/15 open circuit, try temporarily setting the aux function to "test on" so the settings are available, then set the open circuit detection option to off, then you can turn the aux function back to off. 

For the triggerscope, are you clicking the capture button when the engine is cranking?

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1 hour ago, Adamw said:

Can you attach a copy of the tune.  A PC log of a TPS calibration procedure would be useful also.  

attached

For the aux 14/15 open circuit, try temporarily setting the aux function to "test on" so the settings are available, then set the open circuit detection option to off, then you can turn the aux function back to off. 

will do

For the triggerscope, are you clicking the capture button when the engine is cranking?

don't think I did, no?

 

G4+_928_6L.pclr

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18 hours ago, Adamw said:

Can you set Aux 17 polarity to low and TPS2 sub span to 100%, then store, do a power cycle and try the TPS cal again.  

i9AfwW2.png

ok, I'll give that a try. I just got back from my workshop with this other stuff, so I'll upload that now.

I did the 'capture' on scope mode and there is a result.

I hope I've got the things you need.

Trigger Scope Log 2023-11-23 11;58;02 am.llg Log 2023-11-23 11;21;21 am.llg

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2 hours ago, Mike928 said:

ok, I'll give that a try. I just got back from my workshop with this other stuff, so I'll upload that now.

I did the 'capture' on scope mode and there is a result.

I hope I've got the things you need.

Trigger Scope Log 2023-11-23 11;58;02 am.llg 55.92 kB · 0 downloads Log 2023-11-23 11;21;21 am.llg 454.96 kB · 0 downloads

I changed Aux17 and TP2 Sub span, saved the file, closed PCLink, reopened it logged onto ECU, loaded the updated file, said yes to loading it ECU and storing it, powered ECU off and back on and re-calibrated it. As soon as I reset ethrottles 1&2 back 'on' mode it drops ethrottle2 relay and I have error code 32, 99. Working the AP moves only ethrottle1.

Link-G4-Thunder-screen_03.jpg

Link-G4-Thunder-screen_04.jpg

G4+_928_6L_1.pclr

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I just did some basic testing with a small test unit I have for testing injectors, idle stabilisers and Ethrottles.

I unplugged plug 'B' and plug 'D' from the ECU, bridged plugB#18 Aux9 & plugD#20 Aux17, the 2 (+) Ethrottle motor feeds, then I bridged plugB#26 Aux10 & plugD#21 Aux18, the 2 (-) Ethrottle motor feeds and connected my tester power wires to the 2 bridges and rotated the POT control knob and watched both Ethrottle plates opening and closing perfectly together. I did check the tester output polarity with my Fluke multimeter to be sure.

This shows me conclusively that the 2 Ethrottle bodies and the wiring right to the Thunder ecu is correct. So it has to be what I'm asking the ECU to do that is wrong somewhere?

The other thing I would greatly appreciate help with is the pedal sensor.

I mounted one to the complex Porsche mechanism [it does throttle, kickdown and trans cable] only to find it has the wrong internal system [only 1 pot]. So I bought a new one with the require dual pots and it works but it is too bulky to be fitted into this car and adapting to the other stuff.

I need a smallish unit like the Bosch rotary one but with dual pots and compatible with the Link Thunder with dual Ethrottles?

DBW Pedal conversion_004S.jpg

DBW Pedal conversion_002S.jpg

DBW Pedal conversion_003S.jpg

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The trigger scope shows the crank sensor is wired incorrect polarity, so you need to swap the +/- wires at the crank sensor plug.  

For the throttle, you will have to do a manual calibration on E-throttle 2.  Temporarily set Aux 2 to off so power to the throttle is disabled.  Open the run-times screen, go to the analog tab, push the throttle blade fully closed and note done the voltages shown on AN Volt 7 & 8.  Then push the blade fully open and note down the voltages again.  

Put the E-throttle in set-up mode then go to throttle position sensor 2 and manually type in the open/closed voltages for TP sub and main that you had noted down.    

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On 11/25/2023 at 9:05 PM, Adamw said:

The trigger scope shows the crank sensor is wired incorrect polarity, so you need to swap the +/- wires at the crank sensor plug.  

For the throttle, you will have to do a manual calibration on E-throttle 2.  Temporarily set Aux 2 to off so power to the throttle is disabled.  Open the run-times screen, go to the analog tab, push the throttle blade fully closed and note done the voltages shown on AN Volt 7 & 8.  Then push the blade fully open and note down the voltages again.  

Put the E-throttle in set-up mode then go to throttle position sensor 2 and manually type in the open/closed voltages for TP sub and main that you had noted down.    

I have wired the crank sensor according to the attached document. an earth (-) and a signal, no shield?

Crank Sensor picture and pin out.docx

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13 hours ago, Adamw said:

It is wrong as I said above, you need to swap the + & -.  And it should have the shield connected, why do you think they went to the extra cost of using a 3 pin connector and shielded cable.  

Absolutely, reading you loud and clear! Can and will do.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Why is it so?

First pic, E-throttle2 + [Aux17] is 'off' just like E-throttle1 + [Aux9].

Second pic, E-throttle 2 + [Aux17] is now PWM, even though its relay is 'off' but #1, Aux9 is 'off'?

E-throttle2_01.jpg

Just now, Mike928 said:

Why is it so?

First pic, E-throttle2 + [Aux17] is 'off' just like E-throttle1 + [Aux9].

Second pic, E-throttle 2 + [Aux17] is now PWM, even though its relay is 'off' but #1, Aux9 is 'off'?

E-throttle2_01.jpg

file 2 too big

 

pic #2

E-throttle2_02.jpg

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12 minutes ago, Adamw said:

That is normal.  Is there some issue you are trying to solve?

Hi Adam, I still can't sort out my 2 E-throttles. As you know, I had to change the APS to a 2 pot one, which I've done and it responds nicely in PCLink. I have confirmed absolutely that the wiring is correct, as I can drive both throttles simultaneously from the ECU plugs with a remote pot. On completion of calibration, in 'on setup' mode still, #2 is fully open and #1 is fully closed. They both close when 'on setup' mode is exited. As you have suggested, I have setting #2 to 'Low' but no change in result. As you suggested, I tried manually calibrating #2 and the 'open' 'closed' voltages for TP Main and TP Sub stay as entered manually but the ecu immediately shuts off throttle relay 2, usually with error 94 or 99.

The other thing strange is I'm not getting an RPM signal, even though the Crank and Cam sensors are sorted.

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On 12/14/2023 at 3:12 PM, Adamw said:

Please attach the tune, a log of some pedal movements with the aux 17 polarity low, and another log with it set high.  And a triggerscope capture of it cranking. 

I can't upload anything Adam, limit too small?

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