Adamw Posted January 21 Report Share Posted January 21 9 hours ago, Mike928 said: I've ordered a Link VR sensor, 2 pin, so am I right in thinking I just have to extend the ECU trigger 1 sensor and sensor ground wires to the new Link sensor and forget the shield wire? How long will the extension be? It should really be shielded if more than a couple of hundred mm. 9 hours ago, Mike928 said: Next will be sensor position. There are so many suggestions out there that they can't all be right. I think I need front edge of tooth [rising edge], centre of trigger on that point but what range BTDC? It seems 0-60 degrees before TC ok? Some older ECU's were pretty fussy, with G4+ it can be anywhere. Ideal would be to have the gap passing the sensor at around 45° after TDC. You have slightly less accuracy around the missing teeth as there are less position updates, so it is best to have this potentially less accurate area outside of the normal window where you trying to time a spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted January 22 Author Report Share Posted January 22 13 hours ago, Adamw said: How long will the extension be? It should really be shielded if more than a couple of hundred mm. Some older ECU's were pretty fussy, with G4+ it can be anywhere. Ideal would be to have the gap passing the sensor at around 45° after TDC. You have slightly less accuracy around the missing teeth as there are less position updates, so it is best to have this potentially less accurate area outside of the normal window where you trying to time a spark. Current sensor is top of the flywheel at the rear of the motor. New one at the front, down close to the crank. The wires could run straight down the valley and drop down, or go around the inner guard. Either way, they are going to be longer than 'a couple of hundred mm'. How should I connect shield, signal and ground to a 2 pin sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 22 Report Share Posted January 22 The shield doesnt connect to the sensor, it will be connected to nothing at the sensor end, but the whole shield should have continuity to ground for the full length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted January 22 Author Report Share Posted January 22 37 minutes ago, Adamw said: The shield doesn't connect to the sensor, it will be connected to nothing at the sensor end, but the whole shield should have continuity to ground for the full length. Are you saying that the ground pin of the Link sensor should be connected to the 'core' of the shield ground from the ECU and the signal pin to Trigger 1? I understand that shielded cable connect the shield to ground at one end only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 22 Report Share Posted January 22 The trigger 1 cable has a white wire, a black wire and a bare drain wire inside the jacket. The blackwire is trigger 1 signal, connect this to the "Out" pin on the sensor. The white wire is sensor ground, connect this to the "Gnd" pin on the sensor. The drain wire is connected to ground at the ecu end, since you are extending this cable, then you would connect the drain at the old "cut end" to the drain in the new extension cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted January 24 Author Report Share Posted January 24 On 1/22/2024 at 9:04 PM, Adamw said: The trigger 1 cable has a white wire, a black wire and a bare drain wire inside the jacket. The blackwire is trigger 1 signal, connect this to the "Out" pin on the sensor. The white wire is sensor ground, connect this to the "Gnd" pin on the sensor. The drain wire is connected to ground at the ecu end, since you are extending this cable, then you would connect the drain at the old "cut end" to the drain in the new extension cable. Thanks Adam, I had a complete 'brain drain'. It's so obvious actually! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted January 27 Author Report Share Posted January 27 On 1/24/2024 at 12:23 PM, Mike928 said: Thanks Adam, I had a complete 'brain drain'. It's so obvious actually! Adam, I have the trigger wheel already and I've been studying up on its relationship to the CAS and in your words of wisdom on the matter, you suggest the air gap should be around 0.3mm?? I think I saw and the tooth width should be as close as possible to the sensor core. The teeth on my 180mm 36-1 wheel are 7.2mm wide,, across the top of the wheel as it passes the sensor but I can't find any data on the Link CAS. Can you shed some light on this? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FZbML0885NP885h22wOgMyns_ugVps-X/view?usp=sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 27 Report Share Posted January 27 I would say the pole piece in our sensor is about 4mm dia. The pole is magnetic so you can feel its approximate location/size by dragging something like a paperclip across the end. I reckon a 7.2mm tooth will be ok though. The scope will show if there is a problem as the zero-crossing will get flat patch in it when the tooth is too long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted February 3 Author Report Share Posted February 3 On 1/27/2024 at 8:04 PM, Adamw said: I would say the pole piece in our sensor is about 4mm dia. The pole is magnetic so you can feel its approximate location/size by dragging something like a paperclip across the end. I reckon a 7.2mm tooth will be ok though. The scope will show if there is a problem as the zero-crossing will get flat patch in it when the tooth is too long. Adam We’ve made some progress. Machined both the toothed trigger wheel and the harmonic balancer centre hub face [not the balancer bit] so it’s a firm ‘hub centric’ fit together. It just tucks in behind the belts. Made a sensor bracket from a piece of 6mm thick aluminium angle, about 140mm long and bolted both ends. It’s very solid and has a bit of gap adjustment. It’s currently at about 0.5mm air gap. As the Link ECU doesn’t care where the missing tooth is apparently, it assumes 10 BTDC but has the offset entry option to adjust to match that. I want to screw the trigger wheel to the harmonic balancer face [4 x 5mm countersunk screws] but I’d like to know the best position to place it? I’m thinking that if the crankshaft is set at 10 BTDC, I position the trigger wheel so that leading face [rising edge] of the tooth AFTER the gap [missing tooth] is at the centre of the CAS sensor, it is telling the ECU that it’s at 10 BTDC? I’d love your opinion on my thoughts. Mike https://drive.google.com/file/d/1phATjO6gQTphdG3pvFVLBYwZ2i0IEUlZ/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mDAy3F8_ujHCF0kxMc5n4jUBflAf8L93/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PcneZV3OfN5-iXeHxApZMCieDW1APWbn/view?usp=sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted February 4 Report Share Posted February 4 On 1/22/2024 at 1:09 AM, Adamw said: Ideal would be to have the gap passing the sensor at around 45° after TDC. You have slightly less accuracy around the missing teeth as there are less position updates, so it is best to have this potentially less accurate area outside of the normal window where you trying to time a spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted February 19 Author Report Share Posted February 19 I've lost my default opening screen on PC Link! I saved my 'page' a while ok but loading it doesn't help. I caused it by loading a 'log file', now the log screen won't go away, so all my default gauges and data list can't be seen. I've hunted everywhere for a method of returning to my opening screen but no luck. help please?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted February 22 Author Report Share Posted February 22 On 2/19/2024 at 4:23 PM, Mike928 said: I've lost my default opening screen on PC Link! I saved my 'page' a while ok but loading it doesn't help. I caused it by loading a 'log file', now the log screen won't go away, so all my default gauges and data list can't be seen. I've hunted everywhere for a method of returning to my opening screen but no luck. help please?? What no one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted February 22 Report Share Posted February 22 So have you already gone to >layout>load layout and looked for your usual one in the layout folder? If its not in there then I suspect you have probably overwritten it with your logging layout. There are two display modes and each can use a different layout. If you have a log open but no map open then PC Link will be in Log analysis display mode and will use the layout you have assigned to that mode. If you have a map open then PC Link will be in ECU display mode so will use the layout you have saved for that mode. You can swap between them using the "display mode" menu in the menu bar. If you swap between the ECU and log layouts and they both look the same then I would say you have overwritten one so it is gone for good. There are some improved default layouts here: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted February 22 Author Report Share Posted February 22 12 minutes ago, Adamw said: So have you already gone to >layout>load layout and looked for your usual one in the layout folder? If its not in there then I suspect you have probably overwritten it with your logging layout. There are two display modes and each can use a different layout. If you have a log open but no map open then PC Link will be in Log analysis display mode and will use the layout you have assigned to that mode. If you have a map open then PC Link will be in ECU display mode so will use the layout you have saved for that mode. You can swap between them using the "display mode" menu in the menu bar. If you swap between the ECU and log layouts and they both look the same then I would say you have overwritten one so it is gone for good. There are some improved default layouts here: Thanks Adam, I have a saved layout and I've tried re-loading it but nothing changes. This happened once before but it righted itself before I had to get worried, hence I saved it as soon as it returned. Trouble shooting says 'click on configuration' but the menu bar is covered or gone, so no 'configuration'. Interestingly if I load my map on my laptop or my office desktop it all loads fine. I'm at the first start time [it has actually fired and run for a few seconds while testing stuff] but the 2 e-throttles still don't work! I have no dash, so I rely on PCLink to show me what's going to blow. A guy with experience with the Link Thunder in a Porsche 928 is coming over Saturday, so we'll see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted February 22 Report Share Posted February 22 Its hard to understand what you are talking about. Can you attach a copy of your layout. Can you attach a screenshot of PC Link with your map open or ecu connected. 15 hours ago, Mike928 said: Trouble shooting says 'click on configuration' but the menu bar is covered or gone, so no 'configuration'. Where is this troubleshooting comment coming from? Are you talking about the ECU settings pop-out menu on the left side? Or the menu bar which is along the top of the screen? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted February 23 Author Report Share Posted February 23 6 hours ago, Adamw said: Its hard to understand what you are talking about. Can you attach a copy of your layout. Can you attach a screenshot of PC Link with your map open or ecu connected. Where is this troubleshooting comment coming from? Are you talking about the ECU settings pop-out menu on the left side? Or the menu bar which is along the top of the screen? Its hard to understand what you are talking about. That's what my wife says! Where is this troubleshooting comment coming from? web search. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UNiUZubcbd41z80VQpGdD37HXBkxBrrL/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Iz5A3Q9o-pbxecZElit1WYSKBAN5qenn/view?usp=sharing The 'stuck layout.jpg is what I couldn't get rid of, the good layout.jpg is my save layout back again, yeh ha! I just hit the escape key multiple times and the log screen disappeared leaving my layout with dogy resolution which was easily fixed. Thanks for your input Adam, much appreciated as usual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted February 29 Author Report Share Posted February 29 Thanks in a large part to Adam, my 6.5 litre beast is running and with both E-throttles going as well. Fuel map is not right, I had to set it to 'Traditional' to get it to start. I filled in the ap:tp table and the injector dead time for my EV14 550cc/min Bosch injectors and fiddle with the master fuel but I see wild differences in the 2 O2 sensors readings [lh bank vs rh bank]. Now I've received my new timing light I've got the timing much closer than it was just by ear. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gPcQfcrPSX_hWnVRL77apEWNglClSVpx/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BACsycAwTJHbZY7wp-Efx1P0bDlx27rL/view?usp=sharing 1 minute ago, Mike928 said: Thanks in a large part to Adam, my 6.5 litre beast is running and with both E-throttles going as well. Fuel map is not right, I had to set it to 'Traditional' to get it to start. I filled in the ap:tp table and the injector dead time for my EV14 550cc/min Bosch injectors and fiddle with the master fuel but I see wild differences in the 2 O2 sensors readings [lh bank vs rh bank]. Now I've received my new timing light I've got the timing much closer than it was just by ear. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gPcQfcrPSX_hWnVRL77apEWNglClSVpx/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BACsycAwTJHbZY7wp-Efx1P0bDlx27rL/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xyhxU7_pHc_irpiwKNQWN_7hAh-5CbLw/view?usp=sharing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 3 Report Share Posted March 3 On 2/29/2024 at 5:43 PM, Mike928 said: but I see wild differences in the 2 O2 sensors readings [lh bank vs rh bank]. Your closed TPS main voltages on TPS1 Vs TPS2 are quite different, I would generally expect them to be closer than that, usually within about 0.05V of each other. I would set E-throttle to quiet mode and push each throttle closed by hand to confirm those voltages are correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted March 4 Author Report Share Posted March 4 3 hours ago, Adamw said: Your closed TPS main voltages on TPS1 Vs TPS2 are quite different, I would generally expect them to be closer than that, usually within about 0.05V of each other. I would set E-throttle to quiet mode and push each throttle closed by hand to confirm those voltages are correct. Ok Adam will do, 0.019v difference? Currently got the pedal out trying to make a suitable mounting setup. Just now, Mike928 said: Ok Adam will do, 0.019v difference? Currently got the pedal out trying to make a suitable mounting setup. I'm more baffled as to why the Lambda is so different between bank 1-4 and 5-8. Same injectors, same coils and both have new genuine Bosch O2 sensors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 4 Report Share Posted March 4 3 hours ago, Mike928 said: I'm more baffled as to why the Lambda is so different between bank 1-4 and 5-8. Same injectors, same coils and both have new genuine Bosch O2 sensors? This is why im suggesting you check the TPS calibration again, if one throttle is open more than the other then there will be more air on one side. If that looks ok then probably an air leak, either intake or exhaust leak will cause a big lambda variation. Having said that, it is not uncommon to see significant bank-to-bank imbalance at small throttle openings with dual plenum intake manifolds, so dont waste too much time on it unless it remains at higher flows or causes drivability issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted March 27 Author Report Share Posted March 27 On 3/4/2024 at 4:25 PM, Adamw said: This is why im suggesting you check the TPS calibration again, if one throttle is open more than the other then there will be more air on one side. If that looks ok then probably an air leak, either intake or exhaust leak will cause a big lambda variation. Having said that, it is not uncommon to see significant bank-to-bank imbalance at small throttle openings with dual plenum intake manifolds, so dont waste too much time on it unless it remains at higher flows or causes drivability issues. Ok Adam, fixed it. #4 injector was open circuit, so a V7. Set the E-throttles closed voltages. Reduced the 'Master fuel' to 9ms and both Lambda gauges are pretty even just below 1 @ my set idle of 680RPM. Also reduced the timing to 12 degrees BTDC at idle, for some reason the timing values were very high? I'm not expecting to achieve a final tune but I would like to get it to a point where it starts without needing some AP, runs and drops back to idle without cutting out. I may have been a bit over the top with 2 x 74mm TB, for 6.5 litre because it is VERY touchy on the throttle and they are both barely open, so I'm looking at going to 2 x 64mm BMW ETBs and reducing my plenums by placing the TBs on the sides [rather than down the front] of the centre inlet manifold. this will also take about 350mm at least from the distance between TP and inlet valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laminar Posted March 27 Report Share Posted March 27 It's an e-throttle - just change your E-Throttle Target for very little throttle movement in the initial pedal travel and then ramp in the opening later in the pedal travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted March 28 Author Report Share Posted March 28 17 hours ago, Laminar said: It's an e-throttle - just change your E-Throttle Target for very little throttle movement in the initial pedal travel and then ramp in the opening later in the pedal travel. Thanks Laminar, I hadn't actually filled in all of the throttle table over 3000rpm because I wanted the revs to stay low until I proved a few things on a new motor. It's now much 'tamer' to work with. I ramped it up to 1:1 at 50% pedal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 28 Report Share Posted March 28 Attach a log and the latest tune and I can look at the other stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted March 28 Author Report Share Posted March 28 1 minute ago, Adamw said: Attach a log and the latest tune and I can look at the other stuff. Will do Adam but I have no coolant in it at the moment, so it will not be at NOT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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