Adamw Posted November 4, 2020 Report Share Posted November 4, 2020 On 10/14/2020 at 10:13 PM, Adamw said: For the cruise switch; Black can be gnd or 12V. Yellow is Set DI. Brown/Blk is Cancel or On DI (Link needs On sw as a minimum, but doesnt need cancel). Blue is Repeat/Resume DI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted November 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 Working my way through the PCLink setup, What 'Trigger' parameters should I have? It is default to Ford BA XR6? My engine uses Hall sensor on the rh exhaust cam and a reluctance type crank sensor, 60 minus 2 I think?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 Most likely set like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted November 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2020 17 hours ago, Adamw said: Most likely set like this: Thanks Adam but my 'Trigger 2' is fir VVT? and I can't see how to change it. Under VVT I have selected 'Off' but it is still there as trigger 2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 6, 2020 Report Share Posted November 6, 2020 Set up like my picture, the trigger 2 VVT settings are for measuring cam position relative to crank and are irrelevant if you dont have VVT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted November 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2020 Well Adam, I'd love to "Set up like my picture" but I'm obviously doing something wrong. I've got 'Trigger Setup' and 'Trigger 1' exactly the same but 'Trigger 2' I only have the option for 'Cam Type" Off or 4 different camshaft selections? I'm looking in 'Configuration', 'ECU Settings'? I don't have the G4+ Thunder connected. [My motor is a V8 4 cams with the hall sensor on the rh exhaust cam and a reluctor on the crankshaft 60-2] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 7, 2020 Report Share Posted November 7, 2020 Triggers > Trigger 2 > Trigger 2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted November 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2020 16 hours ago, Adamw said: Triggers > Trigger 2 > Trigger 2. Got it! What I was missing was the second level in the tree under Trigger 2? 20 years as a computer tech and get tripped over by a folder tree! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted November 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2021 Hi, it seems ages since I was here but stuff gets in the way! Everything is in the car now and I'm hooking stuff up. In my setup records I have my Speedo pulse wire connected to twice??? Plug A pin # 18, Aux4 Orange and Plug D pin # 8 An Volt 13 It sends 8 pulses per axle revolution, from a series of 8 magnets in the differential, so where should I have it connected? I am also connecting the ABS sensors +&- in Plug C, so do I really have to have the diff pulse as well? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 6, 2021 Report Share Posted November 6, 2021 You wont need a gearbox speed sensor if you have wheel speed sensors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted November 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2021 What is the pin assignment for the Link IAT plug? I have Plug B, pin 22, gnd out and Plug A6 pin 16, temp2 wired for it ready to be soldered to the plug pins. Just now, Mike928 said: What is the pin assignment for the Link IAT plug? I have Plug B, pin 22, gnd out and Plug A6 pin 16, temp2 wired for it ready to be soldered to the plug pins. that's Plug A not A6? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted November 10, 2021 Report Share Posted November 10, 2021 Temp sensors are not polarity sensitive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted February 20, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2023 I'm eventually getting close to my first start attempt with 6.5 litre Porsche engine with its Link G4+ Thunder EMS. It's taken quite a while doing the rest of the car wiring, with many component mods. I would like to know if I can set a 'soft rev limit'? at, say 3500-4000rpm. This limit could not be exceeded in park or neutral. Also, I hate it when an engine starts cold and goes straight to warmup revs @ say 1100+ rpm and rattles like hell until oil pressure comes up. [Subaru]. I would like it to start cold at around 500 rpm for about 3 seconds, or until oil pressure is detected, then go to warmup revs of 1100 rpm until NOT then drop to standard idle of 650 rpm. Is any of this possible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted February 20, 2023 Report Share Posted February 20, 2023 8 hours ago, Mike928 said: I would like to know if I can set a 'soft rev limit'? at, say 3500-4000rpm. This limit could not be exceeded in park or neutral. You can set your RPM limit to 3D mode, then add park/neutral status to one axis to change the RPM limit. 8 hours ago, Mike928 said: Also, I hate it when an engine starts cold and goes straight to warmup revs @ say 1100+ rpm and rattles like hell until oil pressure comes up. [Subaru]. I would like it to start cold at around 500 rpm for about 3 seconds, or until oil pressure is detected, then go to warmup revs of 1100 rpm until NOT then drop to standard idle of 650 rpm. The subaru cold rattle is usually from the VVT/AVCS when the solenoids open from the RPM flare before full pressure has reached the actuators. I suspect getting a cold engine to fire with only enough air moving through the manifold to acheive 500RPM will likely be difficult. Dont forget every car engine since about 1930 has fired straight to the fast idle RPM and most do that day in day out for 100's of thousands of miles without much drama or care so you probably dont need to reinvent the wheel. If you really wanted to, then the way you would do this is enable the 3D idle target, put engine run time on one axis of the base position and idle target tables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted February 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2023 Thanks Adam, sound advice as usual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted August 10, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2023 Well, I've plugged in my laptop and I get "ECU is locked" and pclink drops out? I have the unlock code but I can't find how to enter it? What do I do next? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 10, 2023 Report Share Posted August 10, 2023 A locked ecu wouldnt cause PC Link to disconnect. To unlock the ECU you go to >ECU controls>ECU Unlock, but you will need a stable connection first. Is the blue LED beside the A plug remaining lit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted August 10, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2023 yes. The blue light at the top [above the row of plugs]. In my installation the 4 plugs, ABCD are positioned vertically with the USB port under them and I don't remember seeing a light near the USB port? It didn't connect properly, at least I don't think so? I powered the ECU, then plugged it into my laptop with the data file on it and it remained as 'offline'. I went to 'connections' and changed it from 'manual' to 'auto' and when I clicked 'ok' it flashed up the 'unlock' message and pclink disappeared. I didn't mess with it any more for fear of not knowing what to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 10, 2023 Report Share Posted August 10, 2023 14 hours ago, Mike928 said: it flashed up the 'unlock' message and pclink disappeared. That sounds more like a software crash rather than a disconnection issue. Can you try again to see if it is repeatable, you wont hurt anything. Is PC Link installed in the default C:\Link G4+\PCLink G4+ directory? Before attempting to connect again, can you open up PC Link and go to >help>about and confirm you are using V5.6.8.3669 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted August 11, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2023 Yes, that's where the blue light is coming from and yes, the installation directory is correct. I have my configuration file in the Link G4+ directory. I have just pre selected 'auto' for connection and it has changed from 'offline' to searching' so I'm ready to go to the workshop and plug it in. Then I use 'ecu controls' 'save to ecu' ? After I have unlocked of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 11, 2023 Report Share Posted August 11, 2023 1 hour ago, Mike928 said: Then I use 'ecu controls' 'save to ecu' ? After I have unlocked of course. You only need to do a store if you change some setting in the ecu and want it to be permanent. You dont need to do a store after unlocking, that will automatically be permanent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted August 11, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2023 I have all the settings I think they should be, after you checked them for me some time ago, on my laptop. Do I copy these one by one? or download my file into the ECU? 499157960_G4Thunder928V0.1.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 11, 2023 Report Share Posted August 11, 2023 You will need to get a stable connection first. Once you have a connection that stays alive, first do a firmware update since your ECU is a few years old. Then get connected again and go to >file>open and select the map you want to load in. It will ask if you want to download the file to the ecu so choose yes. It will do an automatic store after loading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike928 Posted August 12, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2023 OK, unlock was easy and connection is stable. Firmware upgrade said it was successful, turn of the power, which I did, now it says 'ECU is in boot mode, retry firmware upgrade' but nothing I tried will get rid of that message for more than 2 seconds accept unplugging the USB cable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 12, 2023 Report Share Posted August 12, 2023 When you perform a firmware update the green bar should progress to about 75% then a message will pop up and tell you to power cycle the ignition, so you then switch ign off and back on again, then you click ok after that, it will then complete the update and load the backup map back in. If you are getting returning to boot mode after that, that would suggest you either didnt do the power cycle, or you have some wiring issue that is preventing the ecu from actually shutting down when you do cycle the ignition. So assuming you didnt actually miss the power cycle step, then what I would do to get back to working is perform another firmware update, this time when you reach the power cycle step, completely disconnect the battery, give it a few seconds, then reconnect battery and click ok in the firmware update tool to complete the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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