Chipsminor Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 Hello, We have a Nissan Skyline R33 with an RB26 engine and we have a really Strange Problem! It has a G4+ Plugin Link installed .The Car Hits the Rev Limiter Early! Sometimes at 5000Rpm and Sometimes at 6800. The Rev Limiter is set to 7200 without the advanced tables. We Swapped the whole Wiring with a Mil-spec one, we have Replaced the Trigger Setup with a 24 Missing 1 tooth and a Reluctor Sensor, We messed with the Filtering and the Arm threshold Setup, and now we are going to Replace The coils for Test! Anyone who have any Similar Issue or may know anything? I attached 3 Log Files i Recorded (I can send with more details if you need) and also i attached a photo where the limiter "hit" at 13500RPM but the car never passed the 6800 actually. Thank you for your time! Log Skyline.llg Log 2021-01-7 6;20;30 pm.llg Log 2021-01-7 6;21;13 pm.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Baker Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 CAS is breaking down or Belt is a bit loose. Best way to fix it, depending on budget, is either an AEM Trigger disc on the lower end, or NZ Wiring Trigger Kit for a bit more money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 8, 2021 Report Share Posted January 8, 2021 Can you do a PC log rather than ECU log and also a triggerscope at about 5000RPM. 5 hours ago, Grant Baker said: Best way to fix it, depending on budget, is either an AEM Trigger disc on the lower end, or NZ Wiring Trigger Kit for a bit more money. Read the post again. He already has a missing tooth trigger with reluctor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chipsminor Posted January 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2021 8 hours ago, Grant Baker said: CAS is breaking down or Belt is a bit loose. Best way to fix it, depending on budget, is either an AEM Trigger disc on the lower end, or NZ Wiring Trigger Kit for a bit more money. The CAS is new. Also Timing belt is tight. We replaced 3 stock trigger sensors and the we put this in the photo. 3 hours ago, Adamw said: Can you do a PC log rather than ECU log and also a triggerscope at about 5000RPM. Read the post again. He already has a missing tooth trigger with reluctor. I will post tonight my friend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chipsminor Posted January 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2021 Hello Again! We did some tests with another set of Coils and still does the same thing! I did 3 trigger Scopes at 3 different Speeds over 5000RPM and i think i captured the problem at the trigger scope no.3 Also Just to give some hint. The Car Does the problem also more on lower gears and on clutch kicks too! Thank You! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 11, 2021 Report Share Posted January 11, 2021 I dont think the "missing bit" in triggerscope 3 is real, as the line completely disappears - if there was a lose connection or something there would still be a flat line. I think the missing bit is probably comms interference. There is something else suspicious in scope number 3 though, it looks like there is about a 10V positive spike in one area that shouldnt be there, since the spike happened when the trigger voltage was a long way below zero it would be ignored in this case, but if it ever happened when trigger voltage was closer to zero then it would certainly cause issues. Its also odd that you have some cross talk showing on trigger 2. Im suspecting there maybe a bad ground or similar. What coils do you have and how are they grounded? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chipsminor Posted January 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2021 We Have Splitfire Blue Coils and they are mounted with the metal original mount which is a good ground on the engine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chipsminor Posted January 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2021 I will check the whole car wiring to figure out whats happening. But is there any way to tweak the trigger setup and avoid the interference? We have it set as a Reluctor type! Filtering doing nothing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted January 12, 2021 Report Share Posted January 12, 2021 What are you trigger filters set to? I had a customer with rpm spikes that was due to the filter being set too high instead of properly adjusting reluctor arming thresholds. Too high of filtering can miss teeth at higher rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chipsminor Posted January 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2021 Today i did some more tests that cost me plenty of hours. i raised the car on the jack so i checked all the wirings Under the car. I Checked all the Wirings in the Engine Bay and i found 1 loose Ground.I also Checked the Entire interior, Under the dash and everywhere. I Started the car and shake the whole Wiring inside out of the Car so i said enough! Wiring is not the Problem. I put another Fresh Ground from the body to the engine and from there to the coils! I went for a Test Drive and still the Same Issue but a bit better. And then i think i did something else for a test, i put a 0.1mm spacer on the trigger sensor to go far from the wheel and boom! The Problem got Bigger! it was doing the exact same thing but on lower revs! So from idle revving to 3000rpm t was causing Spikes Reading over the limiter! So finally i tookanother Longer Sensor and put it on a little bit Closer than the first place i had my sensor and the car Starts Faster Than before. I will Test Tomorrow and Let you know! Thank you! 3 hours ago, koracing said: What are you trigger filters set to? I had a customer with rpm spikes that was due to the filter being set too high instead of properly adjusting reluctor arming thresholds. Too high of filtering can miss teeth at higher rpm. My filters are all at 1 (low) i tested all the filters but its getting worse! Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 12, 2021 Report Share Posted January 12, 2021 If changing the air gap helps start up then that would suggest the arming thresholds are too high, but it is hard to imagine that being the problem at 6000RPM since your scopes show you have more than 10V and arming thresholds can only be set to a max of 7V. With a 24T wheel you would only want the filters on Level 1 or 2 so they probably arent going to help with that spike that was caught in the scope. Let us know if the air gap reduction helps but Im suspicious that is not your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chipsminor Posted January 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2021 I am just deleting posibilities. Could it be a link problem? If i connect trigger on trigger 2 and try it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chipsminor Posted January 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2021 Can someone answer me a simple question? Can a bad connection/short of 5V analog input power produce these spikes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 13, 2021 Report Share Posted January 13, 2021 Not normally - although it would depend what it was shorted to. If it was shorted to an ignition primary wire for instance that was sending a 400V spike into the ecu everytime there was a spark then that would probably upset a lot of things. If the 5V was just shorted to ground all sensors will go into error state but I wouldnt expect it to show as a spike on a reluctor trigger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chipsminor Posted January 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 Hello guys! I am still fighting with this issue. These days i have been fighting with the wiring of the car, weak pins and some wiring bad connections and also trigger wiring was short somehow. Just to make it clear, i have my CAS connected to trigger 1 (Pin42) and the sensor ground to the signal ground (pin 50) is this correct? There are 4 dipswitches on the board. how should they be with this wiring setup? Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 18, 2021 Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 The DIP switches just swap the trigger 1 & trigger 2 pins with each other to suit the R34 CAS which is reversed compared to R32/33. Trigger 1 connected to pin 42 would be the normal R32/R33 wiring so the DIP switches would be set per the "Other models" config. Chipsminor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chipsminor Posted January 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2021 So if the dip switches are set to R34 the trigers go to pins 51 and 52? Or just reversing the trigger 1 to trigger 2? If it is how i understand, what are the pins 51 and 52? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chipsminor Posted January 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2021 3 hours ago, Adamw said: The DIP switches just swap the trigger 1 & trigger 2 pins with each other to suit the R34 CAS which is reversed compared to R32/33. Trigger 1 connected to pin 42 would be the normal R32/R33 wiring so the DIP switches would be set per the "Other models" config. Do you remember how did you solve this one my friend? It seems like a very similar issue like us! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 19, 2021 Report Share Posted January 19, 2021 With switches in "Other models" position, Trigger 1 is pin 42 or 52, Trigger 2 is pin 41 or 51. With switches in "R34" position, Trigger 1 is pin 41 or 51 and Trigger 2 is pin 42 or 52. So basically just trig 1 and 2 connections are swapped. Chipsminor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chipsminor Posted January 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2021 From yesterday the car is not starting! Whatever i do. I installed new wire from outside of the car wiring, replaced sensor and everything! Here is the trigger scope attached! Very distorted! Ot seems like the ecu is the problem! Nothing else to do on that one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted January 19, 2021 Report Share Posted January 19, 2021 Did the car run yesterday? You are missing the trigger 2 there. I predict it isn't the ecu. You've already said you have been chasing wiring issues. I'd put my money on the car since I know link tests all of their products pretty well. Your previous triggers were showing +/- 20V input? That's pretty high isn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chipsminor Posted January 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2021 54 minutes ago, koracing said: Did the car run yesterday? You are missing the trigger 2 there. I predict it isn't the ecu. You've already said you have been chasing wiring issues. I'd put my money on the car since I know link tests all of their products pretty well. Your previous triggers were showing +/- 20V input? That's pretty high isn't it? The car doesnt have trigger 2! We only have a cam 24-1 trigger kit from nzwiring as trigger 1. The trigger 2 wasnt supposed to show something. The car was running yesterday and was doing problems over 6000 rpm. Later i found many bad connections on the ecu that i fixed and now the car is not starting at all and shows this bad trigger signal. I dont know whats happening. I have a clean new triger wiring also new sensor and freshly connected on the ecu! And i get this crap for trigger signal. The wiring is fully tested and all the contacts also... From inside of the ecu to the plugs! Today it threw 2 analog faults that were fixed by pressing the ecu small board to the big board! (after replacing both cables with external ones for test amd plenty of hours of research. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted January 19, 2021 Report Share Posted January 19, 2021 Comparing your old scope for the crank position with the new one it looks kind of like the trigger signal is inverted. Perhaps your new trigger wires are inverted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chipsminor Posted January 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2021 1 hour ago, koracing said: Comparing your old scope for the crank position with the new one it looks kind of like the trigger signal is inverted. Perhaps your new trigger wires are inverted? I tried them also inverted... I tried them with 5v instead of ground... I tried everything... It seems there was a bad connection somewhere and it was cut! Tomorrow i will know since i have a loan link g4 gtr+ for test! If it doesnt work too i will take the wiring out and make one by myself! Could those dipswitches be faulty? i checked with my multimeter the pin 42 with the mainboard pin and it seems okay though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chipsminor Posted January 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2021 18 hours ago, Adamw said: With switches in "Other models" position, Trigger 1 is pin 42 or 52, Trigger 2 is pin 41 or 51. With switches in "R34" position, Trigger 1 is pin 41 or 51 and Trigger 2 is pin 42 or 52. So basically just trig 1 and 2 connections are swapped. I know you can help me a lot! And i tried to send you a message but you dont receive messages which is very legit! I want to discuss some things with you so you can help me out! Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.