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Help with monsoonx inputs/outputs


J Gonzales

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So I've engine swapped a 3sge redtop beams into my 1996 toyota celica st204. I've modified the harness to work for the beams and now I just need to wire in the ecu. But, I don't know where to wire in most of the inputs, what category they fall into. Namely, I don't know the difference between Analogue Volt 1-4, Auxiliary Output 1-6 and Digital Input 1-4. The ecu will be getting the following things wired into it; oil pressure, rpm/crankshaft position, engine temp, 02 sensor, speed/mph, TPS, air intake temperature, air idle control valve, knock sensor, and a camshaft position sensor. I know the two position sensors would be Trigger 1 and 2, and the TPS sensor would go to +5v out and also I've read that the knock sensor should go to Digital Input 4, but  I dont know about the rest. If someone could point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated. Thanks

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An Volt 1-4 will be used for things like oil pressure and TPS, usually these sensors require an An Volt, a +5V reference and a signal ground wire.
An Temp 1-2 will be used for temperature inputs like coolant and intake air temp as they are like an AN Volt input but have built in pullup resistors, two wire temperature sensors are wired with one wire connected to an An Temp input and the other wire connected to a signal ground wire from the ECU.
Auxiliary Output 1-6 will be used for things like your VVT Solenoid, Idle air valve, fuel pump and so on, things that the ECU is controlling. usually one wire of the solenoid is connected to a ignition switched power Supply and the other to an Auxiliary output. If your idle air valve is anything like the gen2 3s one then it needs two Auxiliary outputs and an ignition switched power supply to control, typically you would use Aux 1 and 2 for this.
DI 1-4 are usually used for switch inputs like brake switch or clutch switch or frequency inputs like Gearbox/wheel speed. On the Atom and Monsoon DI 4 can be used as a switched input or as a Knock input. This is done to give the user some extra configurability while keeping the same 34 pin plug.
For your O2 sensor have you acquired a wideband sensor and controller or are you planning on using the factory Narrowband sensor?

@Adamw might have a generic 4 cyl engine wiring diagram which should show how these things are connected in more detail
 

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Im not sure you should be attempting wiring an ecu with your level of knowledge.  You will be missing a lot of the very basic fundamentals required such as how to splice correctly, proper grounding techniques, sizing wire for current and voltage drop etc.  I would suggest you start with one of the online ECU wiring courses such as HP Academy to at least learn some of the absolute basics before planning it.  It is only going to end in frustration and disappointment without the basic fundamentals in place.  https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/wiring-fundamentals/

Attached below is a generic 4Cyl Monsoon diagram. 

 

Monsoon-4-Cyl-Generic.pdf

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Also, one more thing, in the diagram the cam position and crank position sensors have three wires going to each, ground, signal, and +12v, my cam and crank position sensors are only two pin connectors, how would that work? Similar to that, my oil pressure sensor is a one pin connector with one wire. 

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31 minutes ago, J Gonzales said:

Also, one more thing, in the diagram the cam position and crank position sensors have three wires going to each, ground, signal, and +12v, my cam and crank position sensors are only two pin connectors, how would that work? Similar to that, my oil pressure sensor is a one pin connector with one wire. 

- your engine has VR (variable reluctor) CAS. Only ground and signal wires - no +12V supply needed. 

- if it is only 1 wire, it already has the +5V supply from the stock gauge cluster. You only need to tap it onto the signal wire. If gauge cluster of your st204 otherwise don't have the pressure gauge (the original car where your 3S-GE was from surely had it), then you will be having to wire +5V with a pull-up resistor to the Link ECU. Consult the Link ECU Online Manual --- "Wiring Information > Input Signal Wiring" for more information.

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Thanks

I've got another question, the tachometer from the factory gets its signal from the igniter for the ignition coil, but that is gone now due to the coil on plug setup, so how should I get the tach reading for the gauge cluster? Would it be an aux output and would the ecu be able to give that kind of output?

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You have what is known as a "high voltage tacho", it is designed to work off the ~100V spike that comes out of the ignition coil when a spark occurs.  The ECU aux outputs only output 12V, so wont work directly.  You will need a tacho booster connected between the aux output and tacho.  

Something like this or a MSD 8920:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/142171581596

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  • 2 weeks later...

There is no dwell being commanded, this usually means the ecu is not happy with the trigger signal.  

Can you do a trigger scope while cranking.  >ECU Controls>Trigger scope.  Make sure you only click tyhe capture button when the engine is crankng and keep it cranking for a couple of seconds further.  Save the file and attach here.

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