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Turbo Hayabusa


Steve Bull

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Right then ive been asked to sort out a Hayabusa Turbo bike.  Its running it own ecu a  a turbosmart e boost as well as a dynojet  and hotshot racing ecu. Possibly more stuff that the owner not aware of. I original thought of  monsoon ecu only to find it had 8 injectors.

Ive got a spare old G4 xtreme but think it may need more.

What the options

 

 

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Yeah if you want to keep staged inj then you need at least a storm.  If its mostly for drag racing I think many of the G4X features would be useful to you - race timer, power management etc.  The power management can be used for anti-wheelie control too.  A monsoon may still be a possibility if you wanted to change to just 4 big injectors.  

Otherwise if you want it purely for basic engine control then the G4 may be suitable (gear shift control is very basic digital input only in G4).    

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Thanks i dont think 4 big injectors are a possibility as they are bike injectors and Ive not seen any ASNU ones (the ones i always use) like it.  I think any big injectors would struggle to get a good tick-over and allow the right flow on full boost. Its a road bike but with over 300bhp at the back wheel, so yes i think traction control/anti wheelie would be a good idea but its not fly by wire throttle.

 

Time to trade in the old G4 xtreme, i was keeping it just in case. As you never know what you've bought the day after you've been  pissed up and on intent.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Still not sure if to with 4 or 8 injectors which will limit my ecu choice.  Ive been looking into anti-wheelie control and ive seen some linier potentiometers which will cover the whole travel of the front folks. Question is how would you configure the ecu to stop me flipping the bike. 

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I have no drag bike experience so this example is purely made up, but should give you the idea.  We use the open loop power reduction function in power management.  This gives you a configurable 3D table for retard and another for cut.  

Lets say as an example we want to allow up to about 100mm front lift for the first 1 sec then bring that back down to 85mm lift over 2 seconds.  I will just explain the 0 & 1 sec columns: you can see at 95mm lift we start retarding ignition, up to a max of 30 deg at 100mm lift, if the front continues to lift then a cut will be added on top of the retard at 100mm

A0sqdHs.png 

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I been asking around the Hayabusa world for advice on the right direction and as always everyone got their own view. Some even saying keep the stock ecu as Suzuki knew what they were doing and you cant beat it. Any ideas on that one, would a Link ecu out perform a stock ecu or stock ecu + Power commander. 

I could go to 4 1050cc injectors but i want to be able to have traction control. So as i see it theres really only 2 ecus, G4x xtreme and furry. As the bike only a 4 cylinder both will do. Now the Furry has a built in Lambda but cost more, the xtreme could have a CAN lambda which would even the spec and price. Which ecu would be the best option.

As normal ive had a mixed opinions to which one will work the best, Furry with in build Lambda, xtreme Can Lambda or xtreme  lambda on a 5v input. Ive got my own view which should be the best but would like to know from the people that are in the know.

 

Any help advice or even opinions would be a great help

 

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The advantage to the Fury is inbuilt Lambda, so you don't need any extra device(s).

The advantage to the Xtreme is 2 extra analog inputs (10 & 11) and two extra Ignition outputs (7 & 8).

 

Other than that, the features of the two ECUs are identical.

 

If those analogue inputs or aux/Ign outputs are required for what you want to do, then the Xtreme might be the better option, but if you're not going to be running out of inputs/outputs with the Fury...

 

I wouldn't use analog input for lambda with either option!

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The Fury works out cheaper than an Xtreme + CAN lambda by a couple of hundred dollars in general.  Wiring is simplified also.  

I look after a couple of sportscars with Hayabusa engines, one has a stock ecu with some tuning package (cant remember name), it does run ok after a lot of work but it was an absolute ballache to tune.  It is an NA engine though, Im not sure how well the factory strategy will work with boost.  The other car has a horrible "MBE" ecu in it which also isnt great but I had that tuned to a level I was happy with in about half the time of the OEM one.  We had quite a bit of trouble getting the low gear torque reduction completely disabled in the factory ecu but pretty sure we got there in the end.  The feature I miss most from the factory ecu is lack of logging - in motorsport this is where all your optimization comes from in general.   

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Do you have any maps for them as i have no idea on timing and setting up all the parameters. I know that theres about 3 different crank timing, i think the bike is a mixture of Gen 1 and Gen2.  Engine maybe an early Gen1, so that could be 8 timing teeth. 

But as for which would suit the build better, theres no real difference.

 

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Early 99-00 Gen 1 is 8 evenly spaced teeth and single tooth on cam.  I dont know the offset.  Later Gen1 is 24-1 and single tooth on cam - offset about 255.  Gen 2 is 24-2 and single tooth on cam.  Offset is around 255 for the gen 2.  I dont have any Link maps that I have tuned from memory.  I can give you a big bore NA timing map from this MBE ecu, but it uses some weird 0-15 scale for TPS and probably not much use for a boosted engine either.  

 

 

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Hey Steve i have seen many bikes an tune some bikes with power commander or bazzas box .and thee could  be very limit specially not logging on board.i have a customer  was struggling with many boxes powercomander bike msd box for shift cut and oem ecu on his busa turbo bike.one day i told him i have a a link atom g4+ ecu let me pin it out from the factory harness and remove att those boxes included the factory ecu.the only thing I had to do install 4channel igniter to work with the link ecu and factory coils.atom had just enough in put and out to run the bike .we was very surprised by how fast the bike start and idle and rev was gr8. Tuning what fast with no issue its a stock gen2 motor at 7 or8 psi at the moment. Have not had a chance jet to test the bike on the track.but next upgrade now will be 1050id injectors and new fuel pump and a new tune on E85.i would say 100% Stand alone ecu is the way to go.specialy the G4x range.

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16 hours ago, orlando bello said:

Hey Steve i have seen many bikes an tune some bikes with power commander or bazzas box .and thee could  be very limit specially not logging on board.i have a customer  was struggling with many boxes powercomander bike msd box for shift cut and oem ecu on his busa turbo bike.one day i told him i have a a link atom g4+ ecu let me pin it out from the factory harness and remove att those boxes included the factory ecu.the only thing I had to do install 4channel igniter to work with the link ecu and factory coils.atom had just enough in put and out to run the bike .we was very surprised by how fast the bike start and idle and rev was gr8. Tuning what fast with no issue its a stock gen2 motor at 7 or8 psi at the moment. Have not had a chance jet to test the bike on the track.but next upgrade now will be 1050id injectors and new fuel pump and a new tune on E85.i would say 100% Stand alone ecu is the way to go.specialy the G4x range.

Yes thats what i originally wanted to do, but there are so many other opinions out there it sometime make me think that i might be wrong as hardly anyone has done it.  I thinking about installing just 4 1000cc Bosch injectors, which should be enough, at the moment.  The only thing stopping me at the moment is that the bike will have to be off the road while i sort it out. looms can take a while to make and then theres all the trial and error of setting the bike up.  It all the parameters like cam timing info that isn't to readily  available.  The wanted list still grow as well as the cost, i know ill do it in the end.

 

It would be good if i could have a look at the map you did for it to give me a good starting point. I dont have any info on the timing (amount of advance).

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  • 7 months later...

Had  the link ECU for a while but not had time to fit. But the bike is running not rich enough on boost.  Ive bot got the time to do a full ecu swap so i was wondering if the link xtreme could be configured just to control the boost injectors. Not sure what the minimum data/info it would need to do this.

Once it on the bike  could then slowly start letting it do more.

 

Still waiting for anyone who may have a base map for timing (and fuel) for the bike, just to give me a starting point.

 

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I have done a stand alone install on a turbo'ed busa motor in a Radical RS3 track car with air operated paddle shift.  The trigger pattern was somewhat unique if memory serves, and oddly the firing order is 1243.  Had a weird trigger iirc.  Depending on your motor build the timing table may work well for you as a starting point.  The ecu was a Hydra EMS and I can send you a link to the calibration file from dyno tuning, and a link to the software to open/view it - it was tuned with pulse width fuel tables so the injector size/VE table aren't as useful I don't think - that and the Hydra had peak and hold injector drivers so the dead time isn't probably as applicable to a saturation driver (they were stock injectors on the application).  I used an SR20det igniter to fire the stock busa coils (dumb coils) and they realy liked a tiny dwell time.

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  • 9 months later...
On 5/12/2023 at 11:21 PM, orlando bello said:

Hello steve you can email me at [email protected]. i can email you the map i have build.

Hi Orlando.

I'm in the process of building a Turbo Gen 2 Hayabusa. I recently purchased a Link G4X Xtreme. Would you have a start up map i could use.

Thanks Ben

20240208_121734.jpg

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