Multiple issues - Fans always running, IAT not registering, E Throttle setup

[AGalecki]

Hi Adam,

I was attempting to get a basic understanding of the ECU, adjusting inputs, and thought it would be a bit more straight forward than it is before I get professionally tuned.

Here are some of the issues I am running into.

Both engine and A/C fans constantly run when ignition is in the accessory position. Screenshot of the engine fan settings are attached. Saw a previous post about it but what was suggested doesn't appear to exactly match up. Screenshot attached

IAT settings are what were suggested but it still is giving an error. Tune and screenshot attached. 

Didn't want to get too deep into the Ethrottle but here is the wiring. Had a plug and play harness built. This is how they set up the wiring

Yep, the second plug down is everything needed for the DBW. Just assign the inputs and outputs in the software. Aux9- DBW motor (+)

Aux10- DBW motor (-)

Volt6- TPS 1

Volt7- TPS 2

Volt9- APP 1

Volt10- APP 2

 

I have the GM ECA wired as instructed in the directions and set / assigned to DI7. Hopefully that is correct.

Thank you,

Andrew

Edited tune - Base map Mitsubishi EVO 7-8 7Bar PCB V1.5+ G4X Xtreme Plugin.pclx

[Confused]

Does your car have a "hedgehog" near the engine fans?

If so, this is a variable speed controller for the fans, and if this doesn't see a signal, it fail-safes to run at full fan speed.

 

As for the others, the list of fault codes gives you a clue - for E-Throttle it's telling you that there's not a Relay assigned.

 

It's often a good idea too to clear the fault codes and see which ones come back too, once you start fixing them, as they don't always automatically go away, and this gives you a refreshed list of what is still an issue.

 

I would strongly suggest you have a good read of the Help, as almost all of this is covered there in great detail.

[AGalecki]

3 hours ago, Confused said:

Does your car have a "hedgehog" near the engine fans?

If so, this is a variable speed controller for the fans, and if this doesn't see a signal, it fail-safes to run at full fan speed.

 

As for the others, the list of fault codes gives you a clue - for E-Throttle it's telling you that there's not a Relay assigned.

 

It's often a good idea too to clear the fault codes and see which ones come back too, once you start fixing them, as they don't always automatically go away, and this gives you a refreshed list of what is still an issue.

 

I would strongly suggest you have a good read of the Help, as almost all of this is covered there in great detail.

It's a 2003 Lancer Evolution 8. No idea what the hedgehog is and Google didn't give any insight either.

 

Yeah, the Ethrottle is lower priority but put it up there for insight since I'm asking questions already. 

I'll have to try and reset the codes. 

Which help section? In the ECU menu or online? I see you can hit F1 now and it will bring you to a help section. Been trying to read through the ECU information that appears on the upper right but it has been minimally helpful. 

[Confused]

"Hedgehog" is the colloquial name we give to the fan controller on a Legnum VR-4 (as it looks a bit like a hedgehog with spikes on it for keeping cool), I understand there's a similar fan controller on Evos of a similar era.

Looks like maybe the Evo 8 one is smoother plastic/metal casing.

On mine, this is a solid state relay, and uses PWM to control the fan speed - but if it doesn't see this signal, it defaults to full speed. This would explain why you're getting full speed on the fans as soon as it gets power.

[Adamw]

If the fans run with the ignition switch in ACC position when ecu is not even powered up, it is not a settings issue.  What model car?  Do you have a 3 plug or 4 plug ecu?

Have you actually fitted and wired an IAT sensor?

For your e-throttle you will need to assign the 2 TPS sensors and 2 APS sensors to the correct inputs, assign e-throttle relay to aux 16, assign PWM output to aux9/10, then do the TPS and APS calibrations.  

 

 

[AGalecki]

2 hours ago, Adamw said:

If the fans run with the ignition switch in ACC position when ecu is not even powered up, it is not a settings issue.  What model car?  Do you have a 3 plug or 4 plug ecu?

Have you actually fitted and wired an IAT sensor?

For your e-throttle you will need to assign the 2 TPS sensors and 2 APS sensors to the correct inputs, assign e-throttle relay to aux 16, assign PWM output to aux9/10, then do the TPS and APS calibrations.  

 

 

The ECU is powered on and connected via the USB to laptop and reading. 4 plug Lancer Evolution 8. I am trying to get everything reading before I actually turn the motor over. 

Yes, photos attached. That is the MAF OEM plug with an aftermarket harness to the IAT.

 

I will assign those for the E throttle. 

[Adamw]

9 hours ago, AGalecki said:

The ECU is powered on and connected via the USB to laptop and reading.

You earlier said the fans were running with the ignition switch in the ACC position.  The ecu should not be powered up in the ACC position.  

So are you now saying the ecu is powered up in the ACC position as well?  

 

When you last saved the map you attached to your first post, AN Temp 2 was showing 4.96V, which would be what you would see if open circuit/disconnected.  So assuming the sensor and loom was actually plugged in at the time that would suggest the sensor is dead or there is a wiring issue.  A couple of quick tests you can do to troubleshoot:

Open up the runtimes screen (F12), go to the analog tab, have a look at the voltage on AN Temp 2, confirm it is still showing 4.96-5V.  Then unplug the sensor and short the 2 pins together in the plug with a paper clip or similar, if the runtime voltage drops to 0V, that would confirm the wiring is ok.

To check the sensor you can measure its resistance across the two pins, the GM sensor should be about 3500ohm at room temp.  

 

[AGalecki]

8 hours ago, Adamw said:

You earlier said the fans were running with the ignition switch in the ACC position.  The ecu should not be powered up in the ACC position.  

So are you now saying the ecu is powered up in the ACC position as well?  

 

When you last saved the map you attached to your first post, AN Temp 2 was showing 4.96V, which would be what you would see if open circuit/disconnected.  So assuming the sensor and loom was actually plugged in at the time that would suggest the sensor is dead or there is a wiring issue.  A couple of quick tests you can do to troubleshoot:

Open up the runtimes screen (F12), go to the analog tab, have a look at the voltage on AN Temp 2, confirm it is still showing 4.96-5V.  Then unplug the sensor and short the 2 pins together in the plug with a paper clip or similar, if the runtime voltage drops to 0V, that would confirm the wiring is ok.

To check the sensor you can measure its resistance across the two pins, the GM sensor should be about 3500ohm at room temp.  

 

I appreciate the detailed, comprehensive assistance. I misspoke, it is in the "ON" position that the fans/ECU come on.

Could the fan issue be related to this? Not sure what to change in the software if it is the case.

"EVOLink (IV-VIII) On some models the Fuel pump output and A/C clutch output are in opposite positions. Your configuration will need to be modified if this is the case."

It appears the sensor is bad. No change when I attempt to ohm the sensor pins. The Link software goes to 0.02 when I short the MAF pins together as directed and the wiring harness tones out to the plug, so that should be good to go when I get the new sensor.

[AGalecki]

So the temp sensor was bad and after replacement, gives no errors.

The fans still run continuously, not sure what is up with that.

Trying to figure out the Ethrottle, when I set the PWM to Aux9&10 it takes it off of the Ethrottle relay. When I attempt to put Ethrottle Relay, it takes it from the PWM. How should the Ethrottle be set? The directions in the ECU say that the PWM should be on Aux 9&10

I am unable to locate the TPS Sub to set the AN Volt to it. 

Here is how it is plugged into the ECU.

Do I set it to a CAN vs an AN volt? The help says that setting the APS is too advanced for it.

Ethrottle wiring.jfif

[Adamw]

5 minutes ago, AGalecki said:

Trying to figure out the Ethrottle, when I set the PWM to Aux9&10 it takes it off of the Ethrottle relay. When I attempt to put Ethrottle Relay, it takes it from the PWM. How should the Ethrottle be set? The directions in the ECU say that the PWM should be on Aux 9&10

On 7/2/2023 at 10:47 AM, Adamw said:

assign e-throttle relay to aux 16, assign PWM output to aux9/10, then do the TPS and APS calibrations.  

 

5 minutes ago, AGalecki said:

I am unable to locate the TPS Sub to set the AN Volt to it. 

 

13 minutes ago, AGalecki said:

The fans still run continuously, not sure what is up with that.

I think the active states are reversed.  Change aux 1 active state to high and Ign 4 active state to low.

[AGalecki]

Switching the fan settings worked and they turned off.

 

I assigned what I thought was correct for the APS/TPS but it's not cooperating.

It is giving an AN Volt 7  High error, TPS Sub error, and APS Main error.

I thought the TPS main was AN Volt 6 and TPS Sub AN Volt 7 with APS Main AN Volt 9 and APS Sub AN volt 10 - still getting the errors above and says Sub Fault when I attempt calibration.

 

[Confused]

Your screenshot(s) are telling you what you need to know.

TPS Sub - An Volt 7 - is currently showing 4.21v, and you're telling it to throw an error if it's above 4.00v - which it is - you're also telling it to not throw a fault if the input goes to 0.00v, which is not good either.

TO GET IT CALIBRATED ONLY - set the Error Low to 0.05v and Error High to 4.95v for all 4 sources (TPS Main, TPS Sub, APS Main, APS Sub), and then look at what the minimum and maximum voltages are (the Open and Closed voltages that are auto-populated once it's calibrated).

 

For example, if TPS Main spans from 0.55v to 4.32v, then I would set my Error Low to something like 0.4v, and Error High to something like 4.4v - this is just outside of the range of expected movements, but if a fault does occur, it'll pick it up.

 

I strongly suggest, if you haven't already, to read the Help within the application a bit more thoroughly - it's exceptionally well written, and unlike some other manuals/help I've seen from competitors, it's not just a reference guide that assumes you know how stuff already works, it actually explains what and why very well. It's the very best Help/Manual I've read in a very long time!

[AGalecki]

On 7/7/2023 at 1:27 PM, Confused said:

Your screenshot(s) are telling you what you need to know.

TPS Sub - An Volt 7 - is currently showing 4.21v, and you're telling it to throw an error if it's above 4.00v - which it is - you're also telling it to not throw a fault if the input goes to 0.00v, which is not good either.

TO GET IT CALIBRATED ONLY - set the Error Low to 0.05v and Error High to 4.95v for all 4 sources (TPS Main, TPS Sub, APS Main, APS Sub), and then look at what the minimum and maximum voltages are (the Open and Closed voltages that are auto-populated once it's calibrated).

 

For example, if TPS Main spans from 0.55v to 4.32v, then I would set my Error Low to something like 0.4v, and Error High to something like 4.4v - this is just outside of the range of expected movements, but if a fault does occur, it'll pick it up.

 

I strongly suggest, if you haven't already, to read the Help within the application a bit more thoroughly - it's exceptionally well written, and unlike some other manuals/help I've seen from competitors, it's not just a reference guide that assumes you know how stuff already works, it actually explains what and why very well. It's the very best Help/Manual I've read in a very long time!

Thank you. This got it working and after reading your guide and then the Help, it does make sense. I had no idea that the error values had to be manually put in. Figured it would automatically set when it calibrated, off of the calibrated values.

The help section assisted with adjusting the H-Bridge polarity reversal as well since it needed to be set from Low to High which fixed a calibration error.

Now to get the right APS fault voltages, it is best to set them just below/above the ranges seen on the AN volt readings? It was just easier for TPS since it shows right in the window. The help section just says to set them and appears that the Analog window is the best place to get the values. Is there something wrong when there is a light humm from the Throttle body when it is powered on?

For the APS, I matched the Main and Sub to the voltages on the matching AN voltages, is it over closing and being damaged?

[Adamw]

On 7/9/2023 at 7:34 AM, AGalecki said:

It was just easier for TPS since it shows right in the window. The help section just says to set them and appears that the Analog window is the best place to get the values.

Hit F12 and go to the analog tab of the runtimes screen.  

 

On 7/9/2023 at 7:34 AM, AGalecki said:

Is there something wrong when there is a light humm from the Throttle body when it is powered on?

It is normal.  If it bothers you you can set the "run when stalled" mode to quiet which turns the throttle motor off when the engine isn't running.

 

On 7/9/2023 at 7:34 AM, AGalecki said:

For the APS, I matched the Main and Sub to the voltages on the matching AN voltages, is it over closing and being damaged?

You might have to reword this, not sure what you are asking.

[AGalecki]

21 hours ago, Adamw said:

Hit F12 and go to the analog tab of the runtimes screen.  

 

It is normal.  If it bothers you you can set the "run when stalled" mode to quiet which turns the throttle motor off when the engine isn't running.

 

You might have to reword this, not sure what you are asking.

If the Humm is normal, I believe it is set properly, I was just concerned because it says the throttle body can over open or close causing damage. 

 

For the APS I matched the AN volt outputs for the main and sub when no throttle and then when full throttle. So they match the voltages found in the F12 menu exactly.

[Adamw]

3 hours ago, AGalecki said:

For the APS I matched the AN volt outputs for the main and sub when no throttle and then when full throttle. So they match the voltages found in the F12 menu exactly.

For APS you should just click on the APS calibration button and follow the instructions on screen.  

[AGalecki]

On 7/10/2023 at 3:37 PM, Adamw said:

For APS you should just click on the APS calibration button and follow the instructions on screen.  

I was able to locate and use the TPS calibration. May I have a screenshot on where to find the APS calibration button? 

[koracing]

In the ECU settings: E-Throttle section -> Accelerator Position Sensor wrench icon -> APS Calibration wrench icon.

[AGalecki]

2 hours ago, koracing said:

In the ECU settings: E-Throttle section -> Accelerator Position Sensor wrench icon -> APS Calibration wrench icon.

Thank you, didn't realize it was an executable function. I manually put in the values based off the AN Voltages in the lower screen/F12 screen view.

[AGalecki]

Hello, 

My DBW TB motor is non stop running. Even with key out of the ignition.

Finally did a first start up and the tuner put in the TPS table numbers so the ECU would read throttle from 5% at idle to 100% full throttle. 

Then we had an unrelated issue that stopped the session. Bad fuel pump prevented start up.

So I replaced the pump and car starts and idles.

Weird thing is that now the DBW motor is constantly running. Even with key out of the ignition. Won't turn off. Is this part of the "run when stalled" or does something else need to be adjusted? 

[Vaughan]

10 minutes ago, AGalecki said:

My DBW TB motor is non stop running. Even with key out of the ignition.

10 minutes ago, AGalecki said:

Weird thing is that now the DBW motor is constantly running. Even with key out of the ignition. Won't turn off. Is this part of the "run when stalled" or does something else need to be adjusted? 

Your ECU shouldn't be powered when the key is out you are either back-feeding the ECU through an Auxiliary or are still powering the ECU up. Can you still connect to the ECU with PCLink when the key is out?

[AGalecki]

1 hour ago, Vaughan said:

Your ECU shouldn't be powered when the key is out you are either back-feeding the ECU through an Auxiliary or are still powering the ECU up. Can you still connect to the ECU with PCLink when the key is out?

Thank you, 

The ECU was left in logging mode and it somehow kept the ECU and TB powered up with the key out.

[Adamw]

45 minutes ago, AGalecki said:

The ECU was left in logging mode and it somehow kept the ECU and TB powered up with the key out.

The ECU has no such feature.  It is likely a wiring issue causing a back feed as Vaughan mentioned.

[AGalecki]

2 hours ago, Adamw said:

The ECU has no such feature.  It is likely a wiring issue causing a back feed as Vaughan mentioned.

How would I track this down? It is stock wiring and odd that it would stop immediately after I turned the logging off.

[Adamw]

Is there an alarm or non-factory immobiliser system?  Anything non-factory wired to aux outputs such as fuel pump relays or boost valves?