guvnorlee Posted March 29 Report Share Posted March 29 Hello Everyone, Firstly apologies if there's similar thread to one I've created. I am noob to the standalone ECU tuning and I have also been going through some of the lessons in the HP Academy. I hope to get a grasp of setup ideas and help from each and everyone. I am rebuilding my slightly modified 2019 Subaru WRX STI that I had entrusted with my youngest brother for a year, only to find that he had been driving around spiritedly without servicing for the entire duration. Long story short, I've had the car back for 2 weeks with 26,324kms and have noted ringland failure, compression loss and some other hiccup surprises, so I've decided to rebuild the vehicle, supported the Link G4X P&P ECU with some of the accessories due in 10 working days. Can you advise if these items are adequate in the revival of my vehicle: Link G4X PnP (WRXLink 11) - is there any special setup for immobilizer / keyless start? Link CANJST4 Cable Link CAN - Lambda Sensor - can or will this replace the factory O2 sensor on the downpipe? Link MAP 5 Bar Sensor - is the best install ref point on the fuel pressure regulator? Link Coolant/Oil Temp Sensor - since I have my existing Defi system, can I tap into that for ref? Link XS Expansion Loom Link KnockLink Kit - will this be best to replace / override the factory knock sensor if any? Bosch IAT sensor (with data sheets) - will figure out wiring. Bosch Combined sensor (temp / pressure) - will figure out wiring. Would it be better to run a stand alone boost controller, or would it be better to run a 4 port electronic boost controller from link? The incoming parts for my vehicle will be: IAG 950 Closed Deck Short Block GSC 272 Cams with springs and retainers Roger Clark Motor Sport Rotated Turbo (G30-770) Fuel Upgrade: Walbro 470lph / Fuel Pump FIC 1000cc Injectors / Fueling Components Process West Intake Manifold & TGV Delete Honestly, at some point I'll probably get an experienced tuner to help me out with tune refinements, but I'd appreciate any help I can get from the community with setup recommendation and/or calibration. Thanks in advance IG Handle: @thunderous_mofo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rxm tuning Posted April 2 Report Share Posted April 2 Hello, Link CAN - Lambda Sensor - can or will this replace the factory O2 sensor on the downpipe? -Yes this sensor replace the factory O2 sensor Link MAP 5 Bar Sensor - is the best install ref point on the fuel pressure regulator? -Yes Link Coolant/Oil Temp Sensor - since I have my existing Defi system, can I tap into that for ref? -you want to use it for coolant temperature or oil temp ? if its for coolant that is not necessary the oem are good Link XS Expansion Loom - Not needed you can use an volt unused for the Bosch Combined sensor (temp / pressure) with little wiring work Link KnockLink Kit - will this be best to replace / override the factory knock sensor if any? -On the pnp link g4x you have an advanced knock control you can use the factory knock sensor with the proper configuration the ecu can reduce ignition timing and add extra fuel on the cylinder he listen knock Bosch IAT sensor (with data sheets) - will figure out wiring. Bosch Combined sensor (temp / pressure) - will figure out wiring. Would it be better to run a stand alone boost controller, or would it be better to run a 4 port electronic boost controller from link? -its better to use link 4 port for a better control of your boost have a nice day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted April 3 Report Share Posted April 3 A 3 port solenoid provides more resolution for closed loop boost control tuning if you don't need a large range of boost control - typically with a 3 port you can go from wastegate spring pressure to a bit over double the wastegate spring pressure. If you decide to go to a 4 port you are probably better off using an open loop table. You can use the Link 3 port, or any reputably sourced MAC boost solenoid 3 port (be careful buying these off Amazon or Ebay as they are often knock-offs and won't perform reliably or predictably). The MAP sensor should ideally use a dedicated line to the intake manifold after the throttle body without any other connections or tee fittings on that same line. If there is no other option, then sharing the FP regulator line is possible to do but should be rigorously checked for good connections that are leak free and will resist sliding off any ports under boost. Zip ties or clamps at a minimum on vacuum hoses that will see boost. The Defi sensors can be read into the ECU on analog inputs, but you will need to know their calibrations. If you're running the Defi gauge still, then no external pullup resistor should need to be added or utilized. The Link wideband knock sensor is a good unit if you're considering using it. If your OEM knock sensor is still in good working condition, however, it can be used. I would get the expansion loom for any possible future upgrades as well as it can make wiring in additional sensors much easier. As far as immobilizer/keyless start - I know there are two different base maps - one for a Key ignition start vehicle, and one for a push button start. I'm unsure how that specifically relates to keyless start. I would think with the Link installed there would be no immobilizer as the OEM ecu is no longer present. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guvnorlee Posted April 4 Author Report Share Posted April 4 On 4/2/2024 at 1:33 PM, Rxm tuning said: Hello, Link CAN - Lambda Sensor - can or will this replace the factory O2 sensor on the downpipe? -Yes this sensor replace the factory O2 sensor Link MAP 5 Bar Sensor - is the best install ref point on the fuel pressure regulator? -Yes Link Coolant/Oil Temp Sensor - since I have my existing Defi system, can I tap into that for ref? -you want to use it for coolant temperature or oil temp ? if its for coolant that is not necessary the oem are good Link XS Expansion Loom - Not needed you can use an volt unused for the Bosch Combined sensor (temp / pressure) with little wiring work Link KnockLink Kit - will this be best to replace / override the factory knock sensor if any? -On the pnp link g4x you have an advanced knock control you can use the factory knock sensor with the proper configuration the ecu can reduce ignition timing and add extra fuel on the cylinder he listen knock Bosch IAT sensor (with data sheets) - will figure out wiring. Bosch Combined sensor (temp / pressure) - will figure out wiring. Would it be better to run a stand alone boost controller, or would it be better to run a 4 port electronic boost controller from link? -its better to use link 4 port for a better control of your boost have a nice day Thank you so much for your valuable sharing of knowledge and experience. I really appreciate it and apologize for sounding so daft. Next silly question... I'm presuming most of the listed Link new sensors will run off the factory loom yes? I've just received my goodies and am excited and nervous at the same time to start the project this evening or perhaps tomorrow. 14 hours ago, koracing said: A 3 port solenoid provides more resolution for closed loop boost control tuning if you don't need a large range of boost control - typically with a 3 port you can go from wastegate spring pressure to a bit over double the wastegate spring pressure. If you decide to go to a 4 port you are probably better off using an open loop table. You can use the Link 3 port, or any reputably sourced MAC boost solenoid 3 port (be careful buying these off Amazon or Ebay as they are often knock-offs and won't perform reliably or predictably). The MAP sensor should ideally use a dedicated line to the intake manifold after the throttle body without any other connections or tee fittings on that same line. If there is no other option, then sharing the FP regulator line is possible to do but should be rigorously checked for good connections that are leak free and will resist sliding off any ports under boost. Zip ties or clamps at a minimum on vacuum hoses that will see boost. The Defi sensors can be read into the ECU on analog inputs, but you will need to know their calibrations. If you're running the Defi gauge still, then no external pullup resistor should need to be added or utilized. The Link wideband knock sensor is a good unit if you're considering using it. If your OEM knock sensor is still in good working condition, however, it can be used. I would get the expansion loom for any possible future upgrades as well as it can make wiring in additional sensors much easier. As far as immobilizer/keyless start - I know there are two different base maps - one for a Key ignition start vehicle, and one for a push button start. I'm unsure how that specifically relates to keyless start. I would think with the Link installed there would be no immobilizer as the OEM ecu is no longer present. You're a champion and I'm grateful for your recommendations. I'll definitely be in touch with all you experienced gurus as I'll need all the help I can get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guvnorlee Posted April 5 Author Report Share Posted April 5 Hi guys, I've just installed my G4X into the vehicle and have been tinkering with my ECU in the vehicle via PC Link prior sending my car in for the replacement / upgrade block from IAG and am a little lost with setting up. The selected basemap I've installed is the Subaru WRX STI V12 (VA), with untampered factory wire harness. My aim is to get the Ecu, protocols and sensors operating and reading out acceptable values for now. Source / Calibration: Am I correct to assume I don't really need to mess with the default assigned "An Type X " but selecting the appropriate calibration? Fuel Pump : should I select " standard" for type or leave it as default config (Open Loop PWM Control) from base map? I'm running an AEM pump but will be running a dual pump setup in the next couple of weeks. Presently in the default the pump runs during the "test". I haven't installed the Link MAP, CAN-Lambda and Bosch IAT Sensor as I'm not overly confident with wiring / pin work but will get some help with that later in the morning (GMT+8). For now, it's a quick good night. Added a screenshot of my PC Link and noted several prompts at the right hand indication various errors: Error Fault Code 20 - An Volt 4 Below Error Low Value Error Fault Code 71 - Aux 9/10 Supply Error E - Throttle Apologies for my daft questions in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 6 Report Share Posted April 6 9 hours ago, guvnorlee said: Source / Calibration: Am I correct to assume I don't really need to mess with the default assigned "An Type X " but selecting the appropriate calibration? What function/sensor are you talking about? 9 hours ago, guvnorlee said: Fuel Pump : should I select " standard" for type or leave it as default config (Open Loop PWM Control) from base map? I'm running an AEM pump but will be running a dual pump setup in the next couple of weeks. Presently in the default the pump runs during the "test". If you are running the stock controller you can leave it as is. guvnorlee 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guvnorlee Posted April 16 Author Report Share Posted April 16 (edited) Thanks Adam, Apologies for not reverting sooner, i think I have the problem resolved the vague question I posed earlier as the car can finally start. I'm presently needing so direction, advise and help. I'm wanting to remove the use of my Greddy stand-alone boost controller and want to utilize the 3 port boost solenoid. Any ideas how to get the SI Drive to operate with the a Cobb EBCS or Haltech Boost solenoid? Now that the ECU is setup, I'll start on the removal if the engine with my mate over the next 10 to 15 days. Btw, does anyone know what this error message mean? Post below. Edited April 16 by guvnorlee Forgot to include addition query Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 17 Report Share Posted April 17 17 hours ago, guvnorlee said: Btw, does anyone know what this error message mean? Post below. That suggests PC Link isnt aware of some settings that are in the firmware. Can you tell me what firmware and PC Link version you are using. You can find these by going to >help>ecu information (need to have a map open from the ecu or be connected to the ecu) and >help>about. 17 hours ago, guvnorlee said: I'm presently needing so direction, advise and help. I'm wanting to remove the use of my Greddy stand-alone boost controller and want to utilize the 3 port boost solenoid. Any ideas how to get the SI Drive to operate with the a Cobb EBCS or Haltech Boost solenoid? The SI Drive mode is available on CAN AN 1. Notes below to show how it is enumurated. There are many different ways to utilise this for adjusting boost control such as switching between 3 different boost tables, interpolating 2 boost tables, or just referencing CAN AN1 on a single boost table. And any of these option could use closed loop or open loop. An example below using a single table varying boost target with CAN AN 1. guvnorlee 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guvnorlee Posted April 17 Author Report Share Posted April 17 2 hours ago, Adamw said: That suggests PC Link isnt aware of some settings that are in the firmware. Can you tell me what firmware and PC Link version you are using. You can find these by going to >help>ecu information (need to have a map open from the ecu or be connected to the ecu) and >help>about. The SI Drive mode is available on CAN AN 1. Notes below to show how it is enumurated. There are many different ways to utilise this for adjusting boost control such as switching between 3 different boost tables, interpolating 2 boost tables, or just referencing CAN AN1 on a single boost table. And any of these option could use closed loop or open loop. An example below using a single table varying boost target with CAN AN 1. Andrew... you really are a champion and I appreciate your guide and assistance with this sort of trivial stuff. Identified that the errors prompted were due to a corrupt / missing file during the download/install progress. I've downloaded a fresh copy and reinstalled the PC Link software and ensured the ECU was updated to the latest firmware. So far, so good. Your table example is exceptionally helpful and I am definitely excited to have a play with it post break-in and when the car is on the dyno. Turns out you really can teach an old dog / noob new tricks. Seriously thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guvnorlee Posted June 3 Author Report Share Posted June 3 On 4/17/2024 at 9:10 AM, Adamw said: That suggests PC Link isnt aware of some settings that are in the firmware. Can you tell me what firmware and PC Link version you are using. You can find these by going to >help>ecu information (need to have a map open from the ecu or be connected to the ecu) and >help>about. The SI Drive mode is available on CAN AN 1. Notes below to show how it is enumurated. There are many different ways to utilise this for adjusting boost control such as switching between 3 different boost tables, interpolating 2 boost tables, or just referencing CAN AN1 on a single boost table. And any of these option could use closed loop or open loop. An example below using a single table varying boost target with CAN AN 1. Hello Adam Can I trouble you or anyone that has experience with wiring up the AiM MXG 1.3 strada to comply with my Link G4X Ecu. I've purchased the 23 pin wiring harness and need a little help to appropriately connect the unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 3 Report Share Posted June 3 What ECU do you have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guvnorlee Posted June 4 Author Report Share Posted June 4 I'm running a Link G4X WRX11X plug n play ecu for my 2020 Subaru WRX STI. So the things that have stumped me are: 1.) Troubleshooting my ECT. I've calibrated the Link water temp sensor to match my factory temp sensor but the problem is when my AC is on, the temp hikes up to 99 deg c despite both fans running. Could it be a closed deck runs slightly hotter? 2.) The wiring harnesses that has me stumped is matching the appropriate wires from the factory instrument cluster to work on the AimSport MXG 1.3 Strada (i.e. signal, fuel, lights, highlight etc.) 3.) Would you or anyone know if there's a possibility to utilize my Defi pressure sensor with my G4X? I haven't been able to source the data tables. Any help would be grateful and appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guvnorlee Posted June 5 Author Report Share Posted June 5 Now the car is running and it's in it's break in phase and despite performing the setup, I've learnt my clusters fuel efficiency and the center mfd doesn't show fuel range and even the AC display acts up. The boost meter works. Presently driving blind because I haven't installed the aimsport mxg strada as I have no idea how to connect the signal, fuel gauge etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.