Sheik

+3
either via a "save all" button or by electing a Logs folder where they are all saved automagically.

The pumps come with a controller. I cant remember if its inbuilt or in a separate module right next to the pump but there is certainly a controller, it takes in voltage, ground, vss, and a signal the toyota manuals call PSCT which as far as I can figure stands for Power Steer Cutout.
I've got an SW20 mr2 wired up to a fury and have it so the main power feed to the steering is via the factory relay (which may count as a "controller" anyway in that its not direct battery fed/not fed when key is off), plus a factory VSS input from the dash, plus I have the PSCT wire hooked up to the ECU and configured as below

This means it doesnt provide assist when the engine is off, or above 20kph (the idea is to have it behave as a manual rack at anything above carpark speeds). Works a treat, and you can demo to the certifier that it must be "controlled" by switching that aux on/off in front of him and having the assist cut out. Only minor gremlin is that because of the way link ECU's seem to bring the outputs online, it very briefly ground's that output and applies assist at key on (for a fraction of a second) and you can hear the pump power up then down again. If this was deal breaker it would be simple enough to wire the aux out to a relay instead of straight to the controller

Can I just say thanks for posting this. I have had an ongoing issue for a long time which has been too minor to fix but still caused immense irritation. There was basically a very soft 'shudder' coming off or coming back onto throttle. I thought this was due to be botching the accel enrichment or my lumpy cams. I put 15 degrees per second in for ignition retard and set reduction/introduction time to 1 second. Has completely smoothed out my throttle transitions. 
I am extremely grateful for having this solved and frustrated beyond belief for not having looked at these settings sooner knowing it was the overrun transitions where the issue was occurring.   

You are limited to a few specific analog inputs over CAN (current list below).  So from your list above you could only really free up the fuel and oil press inputs by this method.  There is not a good way for any of the others. 
One of these would be suitable:  https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/analogx-4-channel-analog-to-can-interface/
What ECU do you have and what else is assigned to analog inputs?  You should only need 3 extra above a normal cable throttle setup.
 

As MAP is a reactive measurement rather than a demand based measurement you actually want some damping, fast changes are made based off throttle position.
You can choose a long pipe where it may react slightly slower or a long run of wire which may induce interference the choice is yours.

The Sensor ground and Shield ground are on a common ground. If the shield ground pin is not in use then use you can pick this up as a ground point.

I've had it working on Windows 10 via USB with no issues, just followed the instructions in the 1st post.  That was on the g4+ plugin in my daily driver and on another g4+ Xtreme.  It didn't work on my G4+ Storm as that doesn't have the datastream mode required

Hi All,
The developers of RealDash have been working with us to make their app compatible with Link ECU's.  It is now compatible.
For those that havent seen it you can learn more here: http://www.realdash.net/
In my short play it seems to work well and has lots of cool features.  Lap timing, navigation, configurable alarms, live graphs, live streaming of data, music player, etc.  The app and a selection of basic "skins" are totally free, then there are some more fuller featured paid for "premium skins" that do more stuff such as data logging and may look cooler these are still relatively cheap ranging about $3-$10.  One example below.
Right now it wont work on the Atom, Monsoon, Kurofune or Black Storm as the serial stream is not enabled in those ECU's but we hope to enable that setting in the next couple of months.  Right now it will work in the Blue Storm, Xtreme, Fury, Thunder, all Plug-ins & Force.  It will also work on old G4/Vipec V series ECU's.
Connection to your tablet/smartphone is direct using your normal Link USB tuning cable, for phones/tablets that only have a micro USB port you will need a "Micro USB OTG adapter".   Instructions for setup and connection attached to bottom of this post.
 
 
Edit 18 Jan 2020;
Have added a zip folder with an example configuration for CAN connection using the generic USB or Bluetooth CAN Adapters (see realdash website for supported adapters).  This config also includes an example of how to send an onscreen button press to the ECU.
 
RealDash.pdf
 
Realdash CAN example.zip

will borrow a HoloLens from work to see how it looks on that given it's supported

Hey people, 
Just thought I'd post up a quick note about something I did recently that worked out well.

I was wanting to optimise ignition timing for cruise, so using some switches on my dash to trigger a combination of datalogging, 4D ignition, 5D ignition and the 2nd ignition table set to overlay mode.

With the idea that I could add or remove timing from the main table in varying amounts without having to stop the car, and datalog the whole lot easily.

Like so: 



Since you can turn on more than one ignition trim table at once, using those three you can get a combination of timing settings which I then marked on the switches. 

So +1 degree, + 3 degrees, +5 degrees, etc. 
I completed a run on a particular stretch of motorway that has lots of ups and downs, with cruise control turned on at a speed that's at 3250rpm in 6th gear.
Then flicked the first switch, did it again.
Flicked second switch, did it again, and so on. 

When home looking through the data, bringing up a time plot with instant fuel consumption and throttle angle it was very easy to see which timing gave best economy. 


However a secondary method of checking fuel consumption overall is to create a "statistics" page and bring up wheel speed and instant fuel consumption, and look at the mean values:


Then from here I've made a quick excel sheet that converts it to Litres per 100km:



Then from here, collated the results from each run.


So based on this it's pretty clear that an additional 9 deg advance made the engine pretty happy on those particular cells, so updated my ignition table and readjusted some of the surrounding cells to more sensible values too.

It was a fairly time consuming exercise but it's amazing to see how much fuel I have been throwing down the toilet just based on under advanced ignition. 
It was also interesting to see that at 100kpa my car only has 14 deg ignition at that rpm, but then by 70kpa it's wanting 33. (The goal AFR changes though, to be fair... 15.2:1 goal AFR for cruising)

Since changing the timing the car is a lot quieter too! 
I am guessing because when you dont have enough timing, the flame front is still expanding when the exhaust valves open. So instead of having energy push the piston down, it's coming out the exhaust as noise and heat. 

Note you can also make your main RPM limit table 3D to add extra parameters.  Fuel pressure protection for instance if you use Differential pressure it should be relatively constant under all conditions so you dont need a full 3D table - you could just put it on one axis of the RPM limit table. 

If you dont mind it being a bit harsh, you can "chain" virtual aux's with as many parameters as you want, and set this virtual aux as the trigger for any kind of engine protection you want (either RPM limit, or the trigger to swap to a low power ignition/ethrottle table, etc). Its a straight on/off though so if you want it to fell graceful you have to set up the "safe" table to have something like usable values up to 2-3k rpm or 10% throttle and "limit" values above this.

Aux 5 is set to activate the light if GP limit 1 becomes active.

Sorry CJ posted just before me but I will leave it here anyhow.
 
Here is an oil pressure example from the help file:

 
For a warning lamp to be activated whenever this Oil press limit is active you would use a GP Aux with set up like below:

+3
either via a "save all" button or by electing a Logs folder where they are all saved automagically.

No as I said earlier, the speedo is not connected to the ECU at all in our plugin ECU or the factory ECU.  Your problem is elsewhere.

Tacho is on Pin 45 - on our plug-in ECU it is driven directly off the crank sensor (this is a leftover from when our plugin ecu's had less available aux outputs so it was done to spare an output).  As far as I know the speedo is not connected to the ECU - although it probably does share the VSS signal somewhere along the line.  

Main relay driver will need to be set to "ECU Hold Power", this is probably your problem.  Ignition Sw DI should be on level=high, pullup=off.

Adamw - you continue to answer all my questions with a crazy depth of knowledge and experience. I feel like I more owe you a carton than a beer at this point... You are a serious asset to the company!
You obviously know this stuff backwards to pick up that I somehow managed to mix up my findings for the SAS and Evap/Purge systems. My bad on bamboozling things. This is probably not the best thing to be doing at midnight after working 12 hours...
To clarify on the SAS - I said Pin 5 on there because on every loom diagram I can find online and in the electrical manual shows Pin 5 having the SAS and Pin 4 as having no function connected to it. With that said, I have been looking exclusively at JDM 8MR diagrams. It is quite possibly one of those ones that hops around. Either way, not a system I will be making use of anytime soon. 
In relation to the purge solenoid (which allegedly resides on Pin 16), I am indeed a little confused so it would sound mixed up (Pin 16) - My understanding is that this is a separate unit that allows air/fuel vapor to pass through some channel from the fuel tank to a charcoal canister and then into the intake manifold for emissions compliance.  Again, glad its not something to worry about.
On both of of those systems, my largest concern was the presence controls that you guys may have had hard-coded into the ECU that was not something "transferable" to the Thunder. I totally appreciate that one of these units is basically useless and the other one is for rally. 
With the Alternator wiring, thats fantastic information! Some day in the future I hope to put this car will be in the 5 digit RPM limiter club. I will make an assumption that adding an extra 3000RPM to the alternator would move it out of its intended operating range and could cause some high voltages. This may be a tool to combat this if it happens. Just like the rest of it, its nice to know its there, but more-so that I dont have to worry about it.
For the relay wiring response you get 11/10. Just what I needed to know. The eThrottle info is valuable too as that is a future plan (because Evos need cruise control too...)
Will post a build thread when everything is finished. If it goes even half to plan, I think it will inspire at least a couple of other people to follow suit. Very exciting to be able to continue with the project without concerns.
Cheers! 
 
 
 
 
 

Sounds like you have this a bit mixed up?  Pin 4 is the SAS and it is connected to Ign 6.  It would typically only be used for some rally antilag setups so thats why you dont see it in the base map.
Our diagram shows the purge valve is connected to pin 16, but in our plugin ECU we dont control that at all.
 
Our plug-in doesnt have anything connected to these pins, they are not really needed.  I believe the Factory ECU grounds the "G pin" at wide open throttle to turn the alternator off.  You can connect that to an aux out if you wish.  Without it connected it will just charge all the time.
 
Connect Thunder "Ign Sw " pin to Evo pin 99 (ignition switch).   Connect Thunder "Main relay +" to Evo pin 57.  Connect Thunder "Main relay -" to any ground.
ECU +14V can connect to Evo pins 59 & 47.  You may also need to add a separate relay for "+14V Aux9/10" power supply if you are fitting E-throttle.

Something like this will do it.  Note "0%" in the boost table ratio table means you are using boost table 1, "100%" means you are using all of table 2, 50% would be a blend halfway between table 1 & 2.

A quick copy/paste hack sorry...  Showing OBDII socket connection to a plugin ECU using CANPCB & CANF.

Just check the voltage on the sensor signal at full throttle it could be going to either 5V at that point or very close to.
Options would be increase the error high to a figure above the max voltage.
Rotate the TPS a bit so that the max voltage is reduced. (Re calibrate TPS after this)
 

Okay so there are a few stages to setting it up.
 
 
1. Wiring
Run one wire to the knock1 or knock2 wire on the link loom, and one to sensor earth, polarity unimportant. must must must must use shielded wire. The knock sensor outputs a very low voltage signal that's prone to interference.
2. Initial settings
Since you are using the 'wideband' knock sensor and an engine with an ~86mm bore has a knock frequency in the ~6khz range select your Freq Channel as 4-10khz Wide Band.
Set Ignition Retard limit to 0 degrees.
Set the RPM high and low lockouts however you like. (500rpm likely not ideal for the low setting)

 

3. Cylinder balancing
Your knock sensor is mounted closer to one cylinder than the others. It picks up vibrations, so the vibrations from that one cylinder will give a stronger signal than the others.
So what you need to do, is hold the motor at say 4000rpm (no load) and check the signal strength of each cylinder.
You can check the signal strength by pressing F12 to get to the runtime values screen and looking at these numbers, knock level cyl 1/2/34

 
 
See how in that example above, the numbers are 235 / 160 / 255 /145. You need to get these numbers as balanced / equal as possible.

You can adjust the values up or down by tweaking the numbers up and down in Knock control > Cyl setup > Cyl 1/2/34 knk level gain
 

 
 
Best to start with a value of 1 for the cylinder that's closest to the knock sensor, and increase the other values to suit. If one of the values reaches '2' (maximum) you can reduce some of the other numbers to less than 1.
4. Non knock noise levels
Since the knock sensor picks up vibrations, there are of course vibrations happening even when there's no knock. As RPM increases, the amount of 'natural' background noise increases too.
The ECU can tell that knock is happening, because there's an unexpected large spike in the 'noise' from the motor around the time of the iginition event. Soooo, you need to find out what the background noise level is for your engine.
According to the manual, a 2 row table with full throttle and 0 throttle is sufficient but this is up to you and how long you want to spend on it haha.
So head to Knock control > Knock target, right click on the table and select Axis setup to define your table similar to this (if you want)
 

 
Then you need to run a datalog through the rpm range at full throttle to see what the values are for this table. (and coast back down off throttle for the zero TP target, although I'm guessing not much knock happens at 0% throttle)
Open the datalog and bring up a screen to show engine rpm and the knock level global.
Knock level global has a maximum value of '1000'. If you find that you are hitting 1000, you need to reduce the Gain Channel number on the main knock sensing setup page to something a bit lower and try again. Remember that the '1000' has to be the maximum even including allowance for knock which is much stronger signal than the background noise so you need to allow headroom for that too.
 

 
Once you've established these background noise levels for the motor in your table, increase all of the numbers in the table by 20% to give it a bit of a margin against picking up normal engine noise as knock.
At this point, because you've set the maximum ignition retard to 0 degrees in your first step, the ECU isnt taking any action against knock.
Now that you've got everything setup though (unless I've missed a step here, haha) you can turn the knock sensing on by setting an ignition retard limit here, to say 3 degrees or 5 degrees or whatever you want:

Then as per reccomendations from the manual, it's best to test that knock sensing is working under a scenario that minimises risk of damage to your engine.
So you could drive along at low load / low rpm and induce knock by creeping the timing forward until it knocks and you can see from the runtime values table (F12) that it's working.
From here, it should all be working awesomely. (No responsibility taken for blown up motor though! This is just what has worked for me)

Hopefully it all makes sense though
Where are you based / what is the car used for? 
Keen to hear how you get on.