BeallJK

I'll open with that I'd rather keep all my questions / content to a single thread and hopefully this helps people follow along and/or helps solve their problems if they're similar to mine. 
Background: 2003 Nissan 350z running a Link G4+ and completely fed-up with Nissan OEM IPDM - especially the first generation IPDMs where the fuses/relays are rather finicky.  
Goal: Get the car running using the Standalone G4+ and two Razor PDMs and hope to incorporate a keypad for some control and using some of OEM controls.  

Question #1 - the car is running on the G4+ and has been since 2018.  I also have a G4x that I was getting ready to drop into another chassis (a separate infiniti g35) but would it be better to use the G4x with the Razor PDMs? 
Question #2 - Other than High Performance Academy (as I have done all their course work) is there another learning outlet that Link Razor PDM users are subscribed to, to further learn the PDM?    
Question #3 - is Pin 4 Ign Switch equivalent to an OEM 'accessory' stage? or 'on' stage? on an OEM key-barrel setup? 
Is it wise to mimic this configuration?   
My thought is to have a 3 stage latching switch on the key pad where the 1st push is 'accessories', the 2nd push is 'on' and a 3rd push would be off.   Then have an independent button that activates the starter while the button is pressed.   
 

Hey guys - I hope everyone is doing well and I was hoping to get a little help on a issue that I believe is causing a no-start
The chassis is a 2003 infiniti g35 coupe (350z) with the VQ35DE engine.  I am transferring the Link g4+ that was in my 350z to this g35coupe.
Essentially will be running the same setup and did a copy/paste/save-as.
This setup was, for a few weeks running an OEM ECU with an old-school haltech redbox before upgrading and the car started, ran, drove fine on that setup.
I cannot get the engine to start / run and I suspect its due to the left side / passenger side VVT (cam shaft position sensor) not sync'ing with the crank shaft position sensor. 
I do get an RPM reading from Trigger 1 (Crank Shaft Position Sensor, IIRC) and both Trigger 1 and Trigger 2 have connectivity (via runtime values menu). 
But I cannot get anything from DI #1 - it just says 'off' 
I also tried using the Link Trigger Scope and I do not think it showed any movement on the sensors.
I did hook-up a hand-help oscilloscope to each of the cam shaft position sensors and the crank shaft position sensors and when cranked(attempted to start) I am seeing voltage on each single pin.
Also, hooked up a basic volt-meter to each signal and I am getting voltage movement while cranking.  
Checked good grounds of each circuit 
Checked good 12v power supply of each circuit
Checked good continuity back to the ECU (pins 13, 14, & 33) 
If anyone has a minute to review my current tune, a datalog taken while cranking, and the attached screen shots - any and all help would be appreciated. 



g35 Basemap.pclr 2024-02-10.llg

Thanks Adam
This helps alot.
 

Ok a basic example is attached.
Fuel pump and 2 fans set up in ecu as virtual aux 1/2/3.  These will be received into the PDM as CAN function 1/2/3.
Keypad buttons 3 (map switch) & 4 (launch arm) are received into the ECU as CAN DI 3 & 4.  I have set these up in the ecu map to enable the 2nd boost table and launch control.  Button 5 is set up as a 4 position switch, this will be received into the ecu as CAN AN V5, I have put this on the 2nd boost table axis to adjust through 4 different boost levels.  Obviously unlikely to need the 2 boost tables and 4 different levels but these are just examples so you can see different possibilities.  
 
mazda w PDM.pclr ASM example.pdmc

Im not sure what is causing the crash, but here is a quick video showing how I normally work.  Let me know if it still gives you problems and I will ask one of the PDM guys to reach out.  

PDMLink_YLq3FY5vDD.mp4

If it was me I would keep it how the builder of the car constructed it.  Maybe you ask him why he hooked it up that way?
I wouldnt take on the liability of building the car - it doesnt sound like thats your role with the customer?  
If something does happen and grounds are wrong than it’s not your fault and you wont be held accountable to fix or pay for it.
just my 2cents…
 

The main differences off the top of my head:  G4+ will be a bit more manual to setup in terms of the CAN, but not difficult.  G4+ doesnt send PWM aux outputs over CAN - only on/off.  But there are usually workarounds for this - for example if you wanted a variable speed fan you could send coolant temp to the PDM instead and do the speed control logic in the PDM.  G4X can accept a lot more different types of CAN inputs - analog, frequency, digital, temp etc.  G4X has PDM channels built-in so you can for example log currents and voltages of PDM pins in the ecu. 
 
Pin 4 powers the PDM up, the PDM would need to be powered up for the keypad to work so there would usually be a hardware ignition switch or isolator/master switch controlling that pin. 

Hello Adam,
 
I'm trying to get a base configuration into one of the two pdms present on the bench. 
 

always wise to double check - 
confirmation: if you review Link's Razor Wiring Instructions item #3 it shows that grounding the negative posts to either battery negative or chassis.  

Update: 
For what it's worth there is an o-ring in the VTC gear valve cover plate and sure enough the oring was damaged.  I can only assume that I messed it up during install.  I installed a new flat rubber oring, fired the car up and VTC is functioning on both sides.  
Issue:
Fixed:
 
 

I believe the solution is to put a 5pin relay in the ignition circuit:
Is it this??  If it is, send Adam thanks bc he’s the one that helped me!  
 

Update: 
For what it's worth there is an o-ring in the VTC gear valve cover plate and sure enough the oring was damaged.  I can only assume that I messed it up during install.  I installed a new flat rubber oring, fired the car up and VTC is functioning on both sides.  
Issue:
Fixed:
 
 

A little update.  This issue has come back where the car will be idle'ing perfectly fine and all of the sudden the car just shuts off.  
I've noticed a few things as I was watching the computer while the issues occurred.  In my most recent occurrence the car would hit ECT of 180, go rich and die out.  
I initially thought it was something to do with my post start but didnt make complete sense as the car was out of Post Start.  Then checked Warm-Up Enrichment.  This was my next logical progression as the car might be looking for a little fuel adjustment?  so I copied my values from the cells where the car was idle'ing fine but no change to the dying at 180degrees ECT.  This didn't make complete sense bc the car was dying rich and copying over cells from the warm-up map would mean it'd be adding fuel.
I was poking around in my fan settings and I that I had them set at 180 degrees (which is relatively low but I run a single 10" fan and I give it a little bit of a head start).  I adjusted the engine fan activation temp up to 190d and the going-rich and dying out followed the 190d temperatures I set the fans to.  What was strange the Link has Fan #1, Fan #2, and Fan #3.  While OEM only has Fan #1 and #2 but the car would die even if Fan #3 was trigger by the ECT rising.
Did a little poking around, unplugged the fan, and the go rich and dying continued. Back in the PCLink Software (embarrassingly, right in front of my face) my Idle Gain Trim was set to 2ms for the engine fan.  The fan activation temp would activate the fan and the Idle Gain would add 2ms of additional fuel, run my mixture rich and it'd kill the engine.  
I set the idle gain trim to zero and the engine idles like you'd expect.  

A little update.  This issue has come back where the car will be idle'ing perfectly fine and all of the sudden the car just shuts off.  
I've noticed a few things as I was watching the computer while the issues occurred.  In my most recent occurrence the car would hit ECT of 180, go rich and die out.  
I initially thought it was something to do with my post start but didnt make complete sense as the car was out of Post Start.  Then checked Warm-Up Enrichment.  This was my next logical progression as the car might be looking for a little fuel adjustment?  so I copied my values from the cells where the car was idle'ing fine but no change to the dying at 180degrees ECT.  This didn't make complete sense bc the car was dying rich and copying over cells from the warm-up map would mean it'd be adding fuel.
I was poking around in my fan settings and I that I had them set at 180 degrees (which is relatively low but I run a single 10" fan and I give it a little bit of a head start).  I adjusted the engine fan activation temp up to 190d and the going-rich and dying out followed the 190d temperatures I set the fans to.  What was strange the Link has Fan #1, Fan #2, and Fan #3.  While OEM only has Fan #1 and #2 but the car would die even if Fan #3 was trigger by the ECT rising.
Did a little poking around, unplugged the fan, and the go rich and dying continued. Back in the PCLink Software (embarrassingly, right in front of my face) my Idle Gain Trim was set to 2ms for the engine fan.  The fan activation temp would activate the fan and the Idle Gain would add 2ms of additional fuel, run my mixture rich and it'd kill the engine.  
I set the idle gain trim to zero and the engine idles like you'd expect.