Rozsko

I thought I did, but it seems I did not, as today with some crispy fresh pulls it is working properly. Thanks

My bad, part of the risk of trying to convert basemaps using a custom program. New release will have it corrected to the G4+ axes.

same setup seems to be working for me here, do you want to attach a copy of your basemap?
Also just to clarify did you setup that math block before making that log? The math blocks only work in real time and can't be backdated through logs.

I had the same issue. Update the firmware of the ECU, that should solve it.

Plus your Emap will be higher.

VE will usually drop away pretty quick after peak torque, so your VE table having the same number from basically 4500-9000RPM is not realistic.  

there you have it, like Adamw said, it just need more tuning. Usually you need to take quite a lot of fuel at higher rpm because like Adamw said, the efficiency of the engine drop (maybe no so much in a high na revving engine)

That's exactly what I mean. Thanks again.
 
Initially (I mean with the G4+ yet) I had  it at 15 degrees, but the engine wasn't happy, it didn't sounds good at all. Will give it an other try with the G4X.
 
Thanks for the recommendation, will try and see.

I would have ignition target lower than that, typically around 10.  At 25 you are already sitting near MBT so there is less ability for the ECU to quickly increase torque when it is needed.  You may find the MAP lockout will need to be a bit higher so that it works reliably during coldstart - many engines when cold will sit above 50kpa after start for a while.  An actuator deadband around 40 is usually better for E-throttle to stop it dithering.
 

with the E-Throttle target keep 0% tps for 0%aps but make it more linear from there to make it more aggressive, I found with the big v6 I need to put in a decent curve to give me better throttle control down low

No that is about right.  Typical P I have found around 1.0-2.0, D normally not needed (zero).  Intergral around 0.3-0.5.  I have asked the firmware engineer if these values can be set up as the defaults but Im not sure if it is possible in yet.
 
I have found this too, on the two cars I have tried it on recently, enable Async, set min Async injection to 0.5ms, no or very little accel enrichment needed for normal driving.

A few notes:
In G4X set your ethrottle target table to 0% at 0% accel pedal and set the idle base positions to the appropriate tps targets for idle. (G4X uses a clever bit of code to combine ethrottle and idle targets to ensure on exit of idle that the position doesn't dip). Closed loop idle only uses Integral control, Ignition idle uses Proportional and Derivative control Torque management help hasn't been done yet and that code isn't officially finished yet, I plan to test it more (has already had a decent amount of testing) and write the help for it either this week or next week. Accel sens was initially a single value but it was requested that it be made into a table to reduce it's effect "at the top end". I would recommend turning on asynchronous injection (under fuel main) and then seeing if you actually need accel enrichment, I found with my car that asynchronous injection is faster and more precise than a more traditional accel fuel. I'll make sure this help is corrected if I haven't already done so. Have a play with that accel fuel axis to see what suits your car the best, any feedback on this is much appreciated. I've attached a copy of the basemap from my 2GR-FE, It should be a half decent example of an ethrottle idle setup although I am not using closed loop idle, just open loop and ignition.
vaughans_mr2.pclx

Here you go. Freshly out of my car. The calibration process is very easy the new way. Hats off for that.

Not sure how the 4 offsets/teeth came for you.

Here you go. Freshly out of my car. The calibration process is very easy the new way. Hats off for that.

Not sure how the 4 offsets/teeth came for you.

I might call upon @Vaughan to reply on this one, he may know more than me.  I thought this should be fixed in 6.16.27 and I havent seen it on my car.
 
Senor ground is suggested for an analog input reference.  
 
I might ask @Vaughan to get that on the fix list too.

nothing wrong with the sound of the exhaust, I'm not hearing any misfires ?
And I would not have used the quoted valve clearances...always go a little bigger.

Once I'll have the ECU (which I'm going to order hopefully today) and I do the calibration, I will come back with the offset values.

https://shopbhp.com/collections/link-ecu-accessories/products/link-plugin-ecu-can-rs232-loom-connector-terminals

Sidenote. Here is a car i had yesterday. Problem is a hydraulic lifter resulting in a short EVO duration. About where my markers are set. Care to guess what a conventional compression tester would have showed

If you have a scope, you should be able to do a running compression test quite easily. I've done it before using a cheap 300psi absolute pressure sensor off ebay.
 
At higher rpm's there is a little lag with the sensor, but for the purposes of this test it is viable. I just bought a cheap compression tester and adapted the sensor to the hose so it can be used as normal. A little awkward in a Subaru maybe, but still very doable.
 
So this new engine itself....has never actually ran correctly ? What does a 4 gas analyser tell you ? Is there evidence of misfires ?

Since it is an adjacent pair of cylinders there are many possibilities.  I have seen all sorts of fails over the years, so you cant assume anything, you need to eliminate the most obvious/logical possibilities as completely as you can first then move on to the next.  Just some random examples of what I come across before that could potentially affect compression on 1 bank;  Cyl head bolts/studs bottomed out on the threads before the head clamps tight. Head gaskets on upside down or back to front.  Small fire ring gasket on oversize bore causing leak between cylinders.  Valve lash too tight or lifters not bled. Cam timing.  I have even come across things like rags left inside the ports/manifold... 

Since there is some evidence of a compression issue based on your starter current, the first thing I would do is buy a cheap compression gauge and do a basic warm WOT compression test.  Get that possibility eliminated first. 

Our base map is not set up in modelled mode so the fuel map is not VE, it is % of master fuel.  As per the manual that comes with it you need to adjust the master fuel when trying to start it.
 
Do the cam angle test on each camshaft to confirm and set the offsets correctly on trig 2 VVT and DI2. Set the test pulse count to 3 for this test.  

This is definitely correct at least for JDM models, I have helped a few guys locally set up cruise control on these cars and all buttons work.  
 
I just checked against the drawings I have at home, I found a couple of mistakes with Aux 6 & C11.  I have corrected all the mistakes I can find in the pic below.
 
We call the "+ve" pin the one that if connected to +12V opens the throttle.  For whatever reason Subaru (and Toyota) use a different convention to everyone else - they call the "+ve" pin the one that closes the throttle. 
 
The ECU still has all inputs and outputs onboard - but they are not always connected to anything.  ANV12 i not available on this model.
 
That is just the settings for the Ethanol sensor, you still need to wire it to one of the DI's and assign that DI to ethanol content sensor.
 
Calibration unknown.  If you are running on petrol then dont bother.  If you are running on flex fuel then the ECU will get fuel temp from the flex sensor.
 

I believe not all models have the two separate brake switches, you can turn DI5 off.
 
So you have changed it from cruise switch?
 
Yes, this is normal.
 
It sounds like you just need to clear the fault codes.  They will remain as faults until they are cleared.
 
The AC request actually comes from the "AC Module" rather than just a direct connection to the AC switch.  Usually the AC Module will have all the fail safe logic built-in so it wont send a request to the ECU if for instance the AC pressure or evap temp is not within its normal range.  Depending on how complicated the system is you may be able to fool it by jumpering the pressure switch or similar.