ellisd1984

Thanks Adam

I've not tried another base map but the logging enabled stays enabled up untill i try to dowlnload a log ( i can go into ecu setup multiple times and it will stay enabled). after the warning comes up the check box will always be unchecked when i return to ecu logging settings

Tried a factory reset today and still getting the same thing happening https://www.dropbox.com/s/iswo4c647wrcrrv/20210301_152226.mp4?dl=0

Ideal i'm sure I've got spare ignition outputs so i'll use one of them, cheers Adam

Dan, did you manage to get this setup working with the subaru PWM controller? I've done a bit digging and apparatly the PWM signal they use is 5v not 12v. Anyone know how you can reduce the ecu's 12v aux outputs down to 5v? Electronics baffle me, I'm assuming the plug in G4X units for impreza's must have some sort of circuitry built in to do this.

That error message comes up with before the download box. I'll try a factory reset and if that doesn't work I'll do a video of what actually happens. Thanks

There you go, like I said everything was working as normal yesterday morning then when I went to pull a log off in the afternoon the message kept appearing. I've updated to the latest firmware as well to see if it would make any difference but it hasn't https://www.dropbox.com/s/a3f5fn8ms2ocf36/Engine Fan wired to INJ6 copy.pclx?dl=0

I went to download an ecu log file earlier and this error keeps coming up: https://www.dropbox.com/s/fdgmuyzigvxm0d9/Screenshot 2021-02-28 at 13.40.51.png?dl=0 It was working this morning. I've tried disconnectinfg the permanent battery feed but it's still doing it. It seems to keep disabling ECU logging because when I go into ECU loggin setup the "enable" box isn't checked

I'm wanting to do something similar. I'm using a PWM control module out of a subaru in my celica GT Four, I'm just waiting for a few connectors before I can have a go at it. Did your car have any sort of speed control for the fuel pump originally? Mine had a resistor pack fed via a relay that would drop the voltage to the pump at idle & cruise. I've done away with this but I'm using the those output for my new setup

Zero that and warm up enrichment

Thanks for confirming This Adam. I was just looking at the help file and it mentioned 4 kPa whcih was doing funny this to my closed loop.

Whats would be considered a sensible number when seeing MAP delta T on a 2 litre turbo engine? Mine seems to be swinging about all over and just wanted to make sure It's within what would be considered "normal" https://www.dropbox.com/s/5ldooj41mqvekxg/Screenshot 2021-02-26 at 17.10.24.png?dl=0

Thanks Adam, I've bit the bullet and used the larger red 14v cable in the loom.

I know this is dragging up a old thread but since i'm asking the same question I didn't see the point in starting a new one. These cable sizes, are these the main run for say 14v and ground or is 18wg recommended for the individual branches going to individual coils? I've bought a link "Loom A" 5m to make a new engine harness as i'm sick of my 25year old one causing me problems. I was going to use the red/white 8V wire as the power feed to the indiviual coils and crimp these to a larger feed wire about 6-8 inches away. I did a quick check on a wesite and it said it should be ok but now I'm doubting myself: https://www.dropbox.com/s/bp2qc00q2gihyx9/Screenshot 2021-02-20 at 06.57.20.png?dl=0

Sorry, I'd missread and saw 3Sgte

Cooling mist do a kit for connecting to stand alone. I'm going to go down this route and use a pressure sensor as a safety window. Haven't decided if i'm going to pulse the pump with a SSR or just switch the pump with a standard relay and pulse a solenoid https://www.coolingmist.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=94

theres one in the base maps folder of the pc link software.

Standard rev 2 injectors are 440cc you will need to know things such as deadtimes ect which are harder to get. I ended up buying bigger injectors so got all that data with them. Thats when I changed to modelled fueling as I would have had to retune the whole table anyway. Probably best to ask whoever you're getting to tune the car what they like and go with what they want to use. You'll run out of injectors pretty quickly if you pushing much more over stock power. I maxed the 540cc's out by 12psi of boost. You're stock map sensor won't go much higher either. If you're having a go at tuning yourself having these limits aren't a bad think untill you get comfortable with how everything works. Stock pistons won't go much higher for long either so there's a big wall to get over at around 300-350bhp. I've found countless things that would have cost me a fortune if I'd sent it away to be tuned and they'd had to sort out.

Yeah that make's sense. Getting the downpipe off is awfull!! I had to replace my turbo so faught with it for hours. I ended up removing the whole manifold, turbo and downpipe as one unit. That was in a GT4 though, an MR2 will be worse if you've still got the air con compressor that is. Is the Downpipe from TB Developments? His downpipes are top notch. I'm considering getting one of his turbo kits but I don't really have to funds at the minute. Traditional fueling meaning you pick a "master Pulse Width" and then all the numbers in your fuel table are % of that Modelled (VE) means your fuel table is actualy how efficent you're engine is with regards to drawing air in (noting actually to do with fuel). You then input alot of data regarding injectors, fuel pressure etc and the pulswidth that is needed is calculated for the injectors by the ecu. If you're just starting out "traditional" is easier to get your head round but "modelled" works better if you have all the info it asks for.

Yeah the air temp is all you need to get running. You could probably get away without the expansion loom as there's already wiring that can be used for the temp sensor but chances are if you're anything like me you want to add extra sensors anyway. The start up MAP will be good enough to start and idle, although I had to do alot of adjusting when using "modelled" fueling so I think the start up map is intened for the "traditional" setup.

Yeah once you start using MAP for load you can use a BOV because it only calculates what air goes into the engine, not everything the passes the AFM. I think there's actually a temp sensor in the AFM so when you remove it you can wire the new temp sensor to the ground and the correct sensor pin in that connector so you don't have to add any wires at the ECU end. Hopefully Adam can confirm this though. I wouldn't asume the base map is close enough for you to just drive around with though. It will need to be mapped and you'll have to fit a wideband minimum if you're intending to drive it before getting it properly tuned.

Yeah the 92 yr MR2's are the same setup as the ST185 GT4 (I've had both). They changed things quite a bit for 93 MR2 and 94 205 GT4 (my current car). Both the ST185 and Rev 2 MR2 used the AFM to caluculate fueling even though they also had a MAP sensor fitted (which was only used for boost cut engine protection). Like I mentioned most people want rid of the AFM anyway so all you need is to install an air intake temp sensor. There may be some sort re jigging of the pin out for the Tvis if you're keeeping it adn some other things. It's not part of the 205 engine. I think things got more complicated in the States as the kept the Rev 2 setup (AFM etc) running for 93+ so they were calling a 94,95 car a Rev3,4 when when it still used the older engine setup. Everyone else would still consider it a Rev 2, engine wise at least.

I think technically a "rev 2 MR2" is the same as the 185 GT4 so it has the AFM for fueling. I think what most people do though is get the latter 205 ecu, use the stock MAP sensor and just add an air temp sensor to do away with the AFM.

I believe it's the latest firmware. To be honest I didn't even realise voltage compensation had been turned on I've only just turned boost control back on after tuning on the wastegate for a while. Everything seems to be working fine now so I'm more than happy to leave it turned off

As above I've been messing with closed loop boose control and noticed when I'd parked up that my boost solenoid was clicking even though it was below map and rpm thresholds. After messing with a few settings I noticed that changing "voltage compenstion" from on to off stopped this happening. It's not a setting i'm particularly bothered about but I though it best mention it incase other people are experiencing the same problem https://www.dropbox.com/s/niyi14c4oanv6mi/20210213_140918.mp4?dl=0