ellisd1984

I also have issue with the G4X and parallels It will connect but the connection isn't stable https://www.dropbox.com/s/aar946542g495yr/Screenshot 2020-10-01 at 04.13.28.png?dl=0

Is anyone here using parallels for mac to run Windows/PC Link? I'm having issue with constantly loosing connection and its causing problems when trying to log. I'm trying to figure out if the problem is with my laptop/software or something in the car causing the problem. https://www.dropbox.com/s/aar946542g495yr/Screenshot 2020-10-01 at 04.13.28.png?dl=0

Ok So I've figuerd out what the problem was, the CAN adaptor needed to have it baud rate adjusted (which you need additional software to do) https://www.dropbox.com/s/n40gjfcmp2w4or8/20200920_092910.mp4?dl=0 Has anyone got the BOOST/MAP value to show anything? mine just stays static. Admittedly this was just free reving the engine as its currently still on axel stands. My next question is has anyone got a sensor that isn't in the "target identifiers" list to work? I would like to show EGT but not sure how to yet https://realdash.net/manuals/targetid.php

Daft question but is the ECU connected to PC link when you're trying to test the solenoid?

Ok, so I'm having a crack at this now and I'm afraid to say after i've read through all the posts I can't get real dash and my G4X to play nice. Can someone have a look at my attached settings and let me know where I'm going wrong. pclink https://www.dropbox.com/s/4a4g2pltsvqexra/Screenshot 2020-09-18 at 12.59.56.png?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/frkb559eput9qov/Screenshot 2020-09-18 at 12.59.40.png?dl=0 RealDash https://www.dropbox.com/s/89klkszwey68n7g/20200918_130137.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/cm08wflwosn5fe9/20200918_130128.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/16jmua8gagwy3uh/20200918_130120.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/rq82l3mej8157mm/20200918_130115.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/kxurp7zm28503p4/20200918_130111.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/39rtp8wxdq4jci6/20200918_130056.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/eb2uunte24l10ll/20200918_130051.jpg?dl=0 EDIT...... I've found the problem, the can USB adaptor had a really high BAUD rate that I had to adjust by downloading software for it. I've now got the Link and RealDash talking nicely now

VEMS do a cheap kit but there after support is pretty much non existant: https://www.vems.com/egt-amplifier-dsub9.html

Mine randomly started doing this out of the blue and it was a fault with the board.

There's the problem, dealers trying to unload old stock not telling people the platform is no longer being developed on https://www.dropbox.com/s/ai2rgknvngjinoe/Screenshot 2020-08-27 at 14.46.34.png?dl=0

I think some people need to be speaking to the dealers that sold them the G4+ ecus knowing fine well they were going to be superceded. I was all set to get a G4+ in Feb it was Paul @ TCB who actually told me to wait for the G4X

Any info on how the LTT will work?

I think this LTT will do what I was wanting the original request to do so consider this one ticked off.

Is this something we could put on the wish list for future releases?

I'm trying to make a scatter (xy) plot to help me tune my charge temp. What would the best way of doing this be? If I plot rpm, charge temp and CLL what would I do about load?

Not really a massive thing but is there a way of changing the colours of the crosshairs? In particular the pink logging ones as they are difficult to see when colour gradient is selected.

It will just narrow down where the fault is lying. If it works on ana 3 then the fault lies on that input. if the fault is the same on both then more likely to be a sensor/ ground wire issue.

What happens it you put the sensor onto ana temp 3

whats the sensor measuring in ohms? what ecu are you running? if its similar to the MR2/GT4 ecu analog temp 4 isn't actully availablie as an input despite it being displayed

I know this is an old thread but thought I should post my solution to this problem. What I've noticed is the ECU doesn't have any control over the AC clutch, it just reacts to the AC amplifier activating the clutch. This means if you've done away with the standard Idle up valve (as I have) the idle will stumble when the clutch comes in becase theres no delay between the AC request and the clutch being energised, What I did was disconnected the ACT and MGC from the AC amplifier connector and wired them together. This means the AC amplifier does it's thing but the Link actually activates the clutch and fans in reaction the the AC request. Meaning you can program the required delay for the idle to adjust and stop it stumbling https://www.dropbox.com/preview/Screenshot 2020-08-08 at 14.52.31.png

Is it a Celica GT4? if so check to see if the throttle body has a little actutar on it, sort of just begind the oil cap. If so It keeps the throttle blade open on start up then closes when it see vacuum. This causes the TPS to be out by 5% on the low end. There's also a little bi-metalic spring in the idle control valve that holds the idle valve open untill the coolant temp gets warm. If like me you've removed the coolant pipes going to the throttle body then this valve stops working properly and essentially stays open partially.

Hi Adam, thanks for the reply. I've been getting my head around CTE and its starting to sink in be there was an issue with the throttle. On the UK 205 GT Fours (not sure if its just on the UK models) there's a little actuator which keeps the throttle open a crack until engine startup. Once there's vacuum acting on this actuator it was essentially letting the throttle blade shut completely. This was causing the only path for the air at idle to go through the IAC valve. I've adjusted the throttle blade stop and adjusted the IAC duty cycle acordingly and it's working much better now. It's also addressed a dead spot in my TPS as the throttle plate was closing an extra 6% after the TPS was calibrated and the engine was running.

Has there been anymore progress on this for the G4X?

Presumabley then it would mean if my IACV duty cycle is at 40% at warm idle there's nothing stopping me from adjusting the throttle blade open more and reducing the duty cycle at idle? if I sit at idle with a heat socked engine the IAT sensors climbs really quickly but if I manually touch the throttle just a crack (less than 5%) the temps reduce significantly, anything over 5% and there isn't an issue as enough air is passing by the sensor anyway. I'm going to have another crack at charge temp correction as well but it hard to tell well I should be adding/reducing fuel to the main fuel map or changing the CTC bias. When tuning the idle area and biasing 100% to ECT I still had to add 20% fuel (idle area was previously tuned) to that area on the main fuel table to get me to lambda 1.

I've got a celica ST205 which has the standard IAT sensor after the TB in the inlet manifold. The sensor is slow and heat soaks really bad and will pretty much just sit at 40 ded C so is pretty useless. To fix that I installed one of the link/Bosch open element sensor just before the TB which works much better apart from at Idle with the TB closed the air for the engine it fed from a separate pipe from essentially where the air filter is and bypasses the charge pipework & IAT sensor completly. I've tried a couple of times to switch Charge Temp Correction on as it sounded like that was designed for exactly this problem but I couldn't get it to work at all so If someone else has had this issue how are you all getting around it? Thanks David

Would it be possible to have an option for the the mixture map function to take into account correction made from closed loop lamda? I like the idea of having CLL running as an added safety margin when road tuning and it would be good if the mixture map could look at what corrections are are being made to make permanent changes to the fuel map.

Does anyone know of a suitable cable and Ideally a supplier in the UK for 2 core and screen cable suitable for wiring a 2 wire wideband Bosch knock sensor?