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Too complicated while you can just use a relay directly driven by ECU to active 'low' -- same results. y

Could you attach a copy of your tune file (*.pclx)? Also PC log of when the error appears. It may be just a configuration error.

Here...

Pls attach a copy of your tune file, and a short log while trying to start.

You can make a time plot and parameter list. You can see the lambda status as you move the time plot slider (like below). *Check the fault code descriptions in the help file. You may be able to get around it by changing your COPs to wasted spark instead to free up two ignition channels and use them for VVT and fuel pump. You need to use a dedicated aux output channel for tach signal. Which pin on the 34-pin connector is that spare connected to?

Trigger Scope looks good. How did you connect the tach? As far as I can see, all your aux outputs have been used and there's no output assigned for tach. For CAN Lambda, you'd need to check the wirings, but it seems that the logged errors indicate a bad sensor.

G4X can take up to +22V.

OBD ISO 15765 is directly supported via CAN1 or CAN2. You can also setup custom CAN streams.

Up to this... Sorry for hijacking this thread... I was able to make the fue level work (adjusted with the components I have available as in the below pic) --- I got the high level (as of the moment the tank is full) but I have to wait for the actual reading of the empty level to adjust my linear calibration. The full sweep of the floater seems to read 0.675V to 4.900V. *Vehicle also on 4-120 Ohm unit. *10SQ050 Schottky diode for isolation added - as the stock gauge 12V fuel level sensor is still connected in parallel. Edit: Too much fluctuation on fuel sloshing in tank. I changed the 10K to 100K Ohms. @Adamw Ummm... I have the fuel level assigned to 'MAF Meter' to make it show in OBD2 (just changed the label on the app, but I cannot change the unit showing). I'm wondering if there's any better option - while there's no dedicated analog input for 'Fuel Level'.

It is still in the link posted by Adamw in September 10, 2021 https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/12663-4age-blacktop-20v-with-cop-start-up-nap/

Oh, wow... You're absolutely right... After I assigned a function and did the test from there, all 4 CAN Auxiliaries worked as they should. Thanks!

Hi... Here it is. Thanks for checking. 466 ECUMaster CSB V3 - CAN Aux Not Working.pclx

Have put Transmit Stream 4 from the stream template, have turned off OBD2, and the OBD2 device disconnected. Again, all 4 CAN Auxes not working.

CAN Aux 1 works as it should with this setup - has 'High' at inactive state, 'Low' in active state, ....but not CAN Aux 2, 3, 4 (inactive states are in 'Low' --- quite complicated, more described below). Some combinations I've tried and the outcomes: CAN Aux 2, 3, 4 (inactive states are in 'Low') Whenever CAN Aux 2 'Test' is turned to 'On", CAN Aux 3 turns 'High'. Whenever CAN Aux 3 'Test' is turned to 'On', CAN Aux 4 turns 'High' --- and CAN Aux 3 turns 'Low' (when is already on 'High'). Whenever CAN Aux 4 'Test' is turned to 'On', CAN Aux 3 turns 'Low' (when is already on 'High') Confusing, isn't it?

Umm... Now it is constant 0V on all 4 of them even with 'Test'.

Hi... First time setting up ECUMaster CAN Switch Board V3. I just finished all the soldering and have tried to connect and test. All 8 CAN Analog Inputs and all 8 CAN Digital Inputs have been tested working. However, all 4 CAN Auxes do not work -- they constantly read +12V even with the CAN Aux Tests. Did I miss anything? Thanks...

If you had wired it according to the diagram in the help file, then the Aux 1 active state must be 'Low' (highlighted in red below).

You might have gotten confused... GP Output 9-12 were added in the latest firmware, but nothing was mentioned about Virtual Aux 9-12 in the release notes..

"C:\Users\UserName\AppData\Roaming\PCLink"

On "Coming to a Stop with AC 1", you've got the overrun fuel cut activating... You may need to reduce your dashpot percentage to maybe 2.5%. On "Idle Turn AC on and Off", you need to increase the values of your idle base position table to have minimum values 32 on normal operating temps.

Here you go...

Stalling has more to do with the idle control trying to go to min clamp while you're on engine braking (no speed lockout). Oscillation is because of both idle speed control settings and too early overrun fuel cut. Overrun fuel cut activates too early - due to no activation delay. Put ORFC Activation Delay 1.0s, Torque Reduction/Introduction Time 1.5s Ide Speed Control Speed Source Lockout - Driven Wheel Speed Speed Lockout - 10 kph APS/TPS Lockout - 0.5 % RPM Lockout Above Target 500rpm Integral Gain 0.3 Try those, then do another log, then upload including the updated tune file.

Multiplier correlate to frequency Duty cycle correlate to voltage RMS value.

On the last log, I can see that your lambda dips on closing throttle and takes too much time before recovering. You at least have to tune your fuel table to the idle regions before fine tuning the idle. Plus, I recommend put maybe 10-20% for Wall Wetting Compensation. Closed loop lambda low rpm lockout change to 500rpm. AFR Target table at least put 14.7 for idle regions as well. Are you using pure gasoline (no ethanol)?

There's nothing at all captured on Trig 1 and just a little bit of noise captured on Trig 2. Make sure engine is cranking as you click on capture.