essb00

Yep... that's the problem there. You need an igniter between the ECU and the 'dumb' coil.

Coil negative connected directly to ECU? Smart coil or dumb coil? If dumb coil, you need to have an igniter...

Having to control idle speed while you (possibly) could still be in gear (engine braking) would be counter-intuitive... Most people do away with less than 25 kph idle lockout (mine is at 10kph). So it means you still need to fine-tune your idle base position and other offsets to make the idle transitions seamless.

@Fintank11 What you set there based on the markers only while the engine is stopped is the 'static' timing - but that's only good to make the engine start. The set base timing steps no.2 & 3 you can never precisely do without the use of a timing light.

@Fintank11 Hell no! Unless your ear or eye blinks could sync with the ignition, you can never get it right that way. You need to use a timing light as already mentioned last page. Trigger offset has to be precise in order for the ECU to work properly. The difference in voltages for TPS open/closed would normally be at least 2.5 volts.

Odd for the repair manual to call it TDC when it isn't the actual TDC and off by 10°... Since you have it on wasted spark ignition, yeah it would start with either 360° or 0° offset (give or take a few degrees), but then your injection timing may be off by one revolution... So it is important that you get the proper trigger offset to let the ECU know if the TDC is actualy with cyl.1 on compression TDC or exhaust TDC. Your TPS is still not correctly wired as I can see on the calibrated open/closed voltages. Your oil pressure sensor does not have a selected calibration.

'Fuel Equation Mode' 'Load=BAP' 'Fuel System Type' None - No FP Correction

You've got your 'Fuel Equation Mode' 'Load=MAP', but you do not have a MAP sensor connected. 'Fuel System Type' also set to 'MAP Referenced'... Your TPS has 3.13V closed, 4,67V open. The range seem too narrow so fluctuating signal is really expected. Check the wiring again, then re-do TPS Setup.

@Fintank11 Also attach the latest tune file you used to record that log.

@Fintank11 you can set it to any target ignition timing. What's important there is that what you set would correspond to what you see with the timing marker with the timing light (e.g. you set 15° BTDC, then what you see in the timing light should also be 15° BTDC). You'd have to adjust the offset until they are equal.

You rather need to raise your RPM Lockout to maybe 500 rpm, then Speed Lockout to just 10 kph

About the A/C, it would only matter to connect it to Link ECU if you are to have IACV... But if you would stay with just the aux air valve for idle control, then the A/C amp plus idle-up VSV will do. Depending on the Link ECU you'll be using (if you have extra DI and aux output), you could still make use of the A/C control and make use of some control features (e.g. off A/C clutch when TPS is above 75%, off A/C clutch above 3.5krpm, off A/C clutch when launch control on, etc.). BTW, if you are to use the stock AE86 injectors, don't forget to wire the resistor block - as the stock injectors are low impedance.

Most probably because 'Idle Actuator>Integral Gain' is too high. We'll be able to confirm that if you could also attach the map/tune file you where you have recorded that log.

Your Trig2 is wired with incorrect polarity. You need to interchange the wires. I cannot confirm if Trig1 is wired correctly there on the scope, but you better check the wiring as well. Can you also attach your map/tune file plus the actual triggerscope log file?

For 2-wire IACV, you can control idle by the low side, then control the high side with GP Output conditions of your choice so it cuts the supply to the high side (to force IACV to close while there is still a little bit of vacuum - before making positive MGP). It may be a lot more complicated with 3-wire IACV as you would be having to command the rotary solenoid to close and hold.

AFAIK, AFR/Lambda table is just limited to 14x10 cells. You could just put ballpark X/Y axis figures as values in between would always be just interpolated by the ECU.

What's the engine RPM when you captured the attached triggerscope? If it was captured as with the idle speed on your log, the arming voltage for Trig2 is getting reached by the noise on your captured triggerscope. You'll need to increase the arming voltage on Trig 2. Try to adjust to the following:

Attach your tune file and logs.

You can set the high vacuum regions of your ignition table to retard, but it is not enough by itself to significantly reduce torque for effective engine braking if fuel not cut. 'Overrun Fuel Cut' settings also include the ignition retard. Check the PCLink help file for further information.

@Kirjo Yes, that will work, but you'll lose a lot of CAS resolution on Trig 1 (24T on cam or every 30° crank angle VS 4T on cam or every 180° crank angle). Better if you can find a smallport distributor which from the factory already has CAS 24T + 1T.

@Adamw The window start then varies widely as it is based on the ignition event. Wouldn't it be more useful if the knock window start could be selected in absolute degrees (e.g. -10°) instead?

What currently is selected on "Aux 2 Active State"? If 'Low', set it to 'High'. If 'High', set it to 'Low'.

Enable your speed lockout, then maybe set it at 15-20km/hr. You will be needing to fine adjust your idle base position table so it also does not raise your idle too much while slow coasting.

In my 4A-GE 20V with ITBs on Pipercross (although this one is still on stock ECU), I made a holder for the IAT sensor between the mouths of 2 & 3 velo stacks. At least in that location, there's little stagnation of air. Sorry, I don't have a pic as the Pipercross is currently dismantled (using stock intake for the moment).

Injection Effective PW = Actual PW - Injector Dead Time - Short PW Adder I don't see how or what you mean lambda controller is not taken into the equation. AFR/Lambda target is taken into consideration of ECU for computation of required injection effective PW...