DenisAlmos

Would you need any of the resistors or pull-up then?
Or is it a safety consideration to drop the voltage further before passing it into the fuel sender?

This post is referring to a G4+ which didnt have any user configurable software filters.  G4X does so you can do it in software if you wish.  

Hi Guys
Im looking to do the same thing with an FD RX7 Circuit car and display fuel level on a windows tablet dash. Working with an ohms range of 82 empty to 7.5 full, could anyone recommend the best way to connect the fuel level sensor wire to ECU input and what cal table to convert? Many thanks in advance.

In theory yes, although I suspect there will be some error depending how well the measured fuel level can be converted into fuel volume.  The shape of the tank, sensor resolution and calibration table breakpoints etc may not allow an accurate approximation of the current fuel volume in the tank.  Do you want it to calculate based on the assumption you are going to fill "to the brim", or to some other fixed level - ie "3/4 full" or similar?

Hey all LinkG4x PnP for Evo 9 user here,, I had an idea that may or may not work. Seems like it might, I understand it in my mind, I just don’t know about how to set it up in Link to see if it will work or not so I’m seeking help of more experienced users to verify my idea. 
 
Here’s my idea/question. Would there be a way to set up a math block channel to figure out exactly how much fuel is needed to get a certain ethanol content mixture? Knowing the fuel tank capacity, and current ethanol content from a sensor. Like say I want to run a consistent e70 mixture. But the ethanol content from the pump varies through the year from e66 in winter to e85. But I want to run e70. Is there a way to set something up to where it will give me a number saying I need 6gallons of ethanol doesn’t matter the content as long as it’s above 70% because sensor will be readinand then I need however many gallons of gasoline to complete the mixture and have it accurately be e70? 
 
Soo my entire fuel tank capacity is 14gallons, I could tap into the fuel level sensor wire and configure to get fuel level in link, I could then use the ethanol content sensor to measure current ethanol content in the tank, I would just need to configure the equation to get the amount of ethanol needed and gasoline needed to get the desired ethanol content. 
 
Let me know if anyone has any further info on if this may be possible or how to do it. Thanks!! 

I get what you’re saying. It may be more of a headache than just filling up with e85 and leaving it there. I’ll be incorporating the flex tuning so all of that will be fine. Thanks for the input as alway.

Set it up as a GP input, use a cal table with Volts Vs Percent.  Start with an empty tank, enter the voltage into the 0% cell in the cal table, add 10% fuel, enter the voltage into the 10% cell, etc.  

I am using an HP USB-C mini dock (7PJ38AA) with my Samsung Tab S7. It works like charm. There are some odd cases when I have to powercycle the dock, but 80% of the times it just works fine.

Hey mate not too sure, I'll ask my tuner about this.
Response, hope it answers your question
The G4x plugin has 4 injector drivers 
So can run 4 coils as direct spark 
If you went wasted spark you need to pair two coils to the same driver which works fine...
So in factory form you would wire two coils to the same driver for wasted spark config.
But the link has 4 outputs so no reason not to do it direct
 

There is no serial output on the G4X so the only way to use realdash with G4x at present is via obd2.  I’m testing a CAN bus connection for them soon but still waiting on the hardware to arrive.

FYI- I was using real dash successfully until I got a new device with USB-C I tried a few usb-usb C adapters that claimed to have OTG compatibility with no success.
I did some more research and found this 3 pack for $7 USD  https://www.amazon.com/Weduda-Adapter-Charging-Converter-Samsung/dp/B075QH2YB7 So now, using my usb-micro usb OTG cable from before, and this micro to USB C, everything works again. Thought I would throw that out there in case anyone else was having USB C issues. 

Just a quick update with regards to the Windows 10 lag issue - I've been in touch with the creator of RealDash who has made some changes which has solved the issue, full credit with regards to the fact that he fixed the problem within 24 hours!

Thank for Realdash developing such a powerful app that I don't have to buy expensive AIM racing instruments.
My car is Subaru GRB, ej25 with link G4 + thunder. I developed a protocol conversion module using STM32. Then can convert the Can signal of the link G4+ into a Realdash protocol, and then connect to the mobile phone through a TTL to Bluetooth module, so as to display almost all the data on the mobile phone (as long as the PClink can display).
Welcome to exchange

SM-A6050_20181227180733.mp4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNeBGatmBSc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKJzVRUp09c

Just wanted to share my setup. Have been using it since it was orginally released for ios and android.
Link to video
 

you are correct that cyclic idle is necessary when using antilag with the throttle open. A cable method works as well from in the cabin and is another great way to accomplish the same thing without added solenoids and wiring.

Only other thing you can do is check the pins at individual connections for any signs of corrosion, or pin fretting that may lead to a weak connection.

If it is an EJ20 based engine I would try normalised mode, then variables like RPM, load, distance from the sensor, mechanical noise etc has very little effect on the threshold.  Copy all the settings out of our WRX11 base map.

Personally in a no-knock situation I like to see the knock values reach a maximum of about 600-700ish.  I would adjust gain until you get full range of knock readings out to that value.  Free revving in neutral at about 3000 rpm around 200 or so on the knock runtime values.
I don't think you can copy the table in the help file - you'll just have to enter the values.

You either have a bad connection or a dead sensor.  But since the problem apparently occurred after you disturbed the wiring I would lean more towards a bad connection.  Set up a multimeter measuring the resistance between ground and trig 1 pin at the ecu while wiggling/bending/yanking/pulling all the relevant bits of loom to find the issue.  You will see the resistance jump around when you find the problem spot. 

Hey I had this question a while back also and its not really a concern. Your lambda reading will read very lean while cyclic idle is working. This is because the ecu is cutting fuel completely to each cylinder in a specific sequence to keep the idle down. No fuel will will mean that only oxygen will pass through the cylinder and into the exhaust, the o2 sensor will read this as an extremely lean mixture. If your idle map is good when cyclic idle is off then you can assume this is the lambda reading to each cylinder that is getting fuel when cyclic idle is working. Pay attention to antilag lambda reading when out of cyclic idle range though because you will not want that reading to be lean. It should read comparable to where it is normally with boost slightly rich 10-11 afr or .800-.850 lambda. Hope that helps understand that a bit better.

Lambda is irrelevant when you have a cut active, you have raw oxygen pumping through the exhaust system.  

What's the Lambda on Cylcic idle are supposed to be? When I active it runs very lean around 1.4-1.9 swing up and down, if I have to keep it run around 1.0 I have to add 60% the fuel trim which I don't think its normal.

whats the point of the setup with the screw?

i mostly set up cars with manual throttle bodys and i always crack open the throttle a bit with the factory bolt (rpm on idle +-4000 rpm)
reset tps 0-100 point 
activate ignition idle map with value somewhere between -5° and -25° so idle is at 1200-1300 rpm and go from there

that way there plenty of fresh air to make the AL agressive enough

AL activates with rpm and Tps % and a DI , 

that way you dont have to alter anything under the bonnet and the car drives nice

Hey all, its been a minute. Link G4X PnP for 06' Evo IX. So im in process of getting some Group N style antilag working in my car and im having some setup issues. Probably because im just unfamilliar with the tuning/settings of it. First things first,, I have modified my Full Blown 70mm throttle body with a bracket and a screw basically, for a manual kicker adjustment. This means i actually have to go under the hood and turn the screw until it bottoms out on the bracket. I have this set to open the throttle plate exactly 20%. Ill post a link to pictures for anyone who wants to see how iv modified the throttle body cam and the bracket and screw. Now I tried to test this with cyclic idle this morning and the car would fire up and almost die instantly as if the cyclic idle is working but i dont have something set up correctly to where it stays running. Also i have not made any real adjustments to the map other than turn antilag ON with cyclic idle always on. Cyclic idle low limit was at 22 and high limit was at 24. These were just random values to see if the car would fire up. Fail.. So if anyone has any further input as to what i may be doing wrong i would appreciate the help as always.
Another note, and this may be the issue.. I know antilag and lauch control cannot be active at the same time, I did have my launch control turned on while i did my tests and didnt remember until after i deemed it unsuccessful. If i turn off my launch control would it allow something different to operate?
Another basic question that may be in relation,,, with the throttle kicked open at say 20%, with everything working as should. Should i be able to start the car from off with the throttle kicked and cyclic idle on and working? or does the car have to be running and then the throttle kicked and cyclic idle turned on?
As soon as successful stationary testing is done i will be adding a vacuum pump to keep power brakes and setting this up to be fully functional antilag. Thanks again for any input!!!
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1ctVovrKJeoLEI08LdHJdPDSUOxaj20xI?usp=sharing
 

Can you post a trigger scope of engine cranking?  Perhaps it's a setting that can be adjusted? 
I don't know of a trigger mode on the Link that doesn't use Trig 1 (crank position) but I do know you can use just that and the wheel can potentially be mounted at the CAM, but Adam will have to let you know if that's feasible with your setup and particular trigger wheels.