Simon

If the last option keeps the pump running or the change to another AUX works there is a very high chance we do have an internal hardware issue.

It could be a firmware issue but not a known one so if you have a later firmware available it would be worth trying. Also if you have a free Aux out it could be worth moving the FP to another Aux output. This will eliminate the option of a internal track problem or driver failure. As a back up you could also have a switch to manually supply a ground to the fuel pump relay so if it stops you can flick the switch and pump should then run.

Either or but a disk would be easiest I think. You want it to be open for 180deg and closed for 180deg giving a high signal for half a cycle and a low signal for the other half. The gap on the crank is then in the middle of the high and low signals.

It might be a case of some heat soak on the IAT sensor causing it to lean out the mixtures which in turn makes for a lean surge. Idle control will then try to compensate and make it surge more. The tuner should be able to find the cause with the lap top plugged in while it has the surge.

It could be a driver issue or it could also be the USB chip has failed. Try uninstall the device and then unplug and then reconnect. It should come up as a link ECU USB and then assign a com port to it.

With the sync on the cam it would need to move a long way before it was an issue. It would need to move one tooth or 15degs. If you had massive movement you could have a missing tooth and use cam level for a trigger two.

Chances are the firmware in the ECU is not matched to the PC link version. Try an older version of PC link. Or do a firmware update. If you perform a firmware update be sure to check all settings.

Hi Mike I suspect when you are changing the figures you are missing hitting the enter key after. The figures are locked so that they can only be adjusted when you are in the set base timing window.  The normal procedure used to set Trigger Calibration does not work so well on Rotary engines.  A piston engine will run happily with ignition timing set to fire on TDC.  This is not so for Rotary engines.   Note: Most Rotary engines have a timing mark on their front pulley at 20 degrees ATDC.  It is the tuners responsibility to confirm that the engine has a mark at 20 degrees.  If the mark is at some other position, that position should be substituted in the following procedure.  Late 13B engines only have a 20 degrees ATDC mark.  Early 13B engines have a 5 and 20 degrees ATDC mark.  12A Engines have a 0 and 20 degrees ATDC marks.   Rotary Trigger Calibration Procedure   The idea of this trigger calibration setup method is to end up with the leading spark firing at 5 degrees ATDC and the trailing spark firing at 20 degrees ATDC.  1. Disable the fuel injectors by selecting OFF as the Injection Mode under the Fuel heading. This will ensure that the engine will not attempt to start while the ignition timing is being calibrated. 2. Enter a value of -20 degrees in the Trailing Split Table in all the cells around the area where the engine will run during trigger calibration.  It may be necessary to set the entire table to the same value. 3. In the Triggers->Calibrate menu, click Set Base Timing.  The Set Base Timing window will open. 4. Enter 0 as the Lock Ignition Timing To value to be used (remember to push enter after changing the number). 5. Attach a timing light to fire off the TRAILING spark of the front rotor. 6. Crank the engine while watching for consistent ignition operation at a fixed crank position.  Adjust the Offset until the ignition is firing exactly on the 20 degrees ATDC timing mark. 7. Select Done to close the Set Base Timing window. 8. Enable the fuel injectors by selecting the relevant Injection Mode. 9. Perform a STORE so that the Trigger Offset value is permanently retained.  Remember that the Trailing Split table has been modified so be careful not to Store changes to that by accident. 10. Repeat the above procedure once the engine is running (ideally at about 2000 RPM) as it is hard to get accurate timing readings during cranking.  To do this, repeat the above procedure without setting Injection Mode to OFF. Â

On the setting for the ignition drive do you have is set to ISC or ISC slave? The other factor could be some solenoids have a minimum duty cycle that if you go below it starts to open up again. Swapping the polarity should make no difference. Also check the frequency this should be up around 250hz

You might get some cyclic idle if you turn it on. The limiting might not be as much as for an application with the throttle held open. As it depends on how much air you are flowing as to how much cutting is required to keep the idle down when the retard is removed.

Have a look at the RX7 plugin base map this will give a very good idea of a typical map. Trigger offsets will vary depending on if its a series 4/5 trigger or the later series 6,7,8.

Hi Steve You have got most of it sorted and really good option going to a crank trigger. If you are looking to run sequential fuel or Ignition then a cam sync is needed and it will need to be a single tooth / gap. So no need for a missing tooth on the crank as this is only needed if you have no cam sync. But you will need the disk changed out to the likes of those you mentioned. These are a good option for crank triggers http://blog.rossperformanceparts.com/category/crank-cam-trigger-kits/

What is the turbo / engine specs

Yes no problem at all to use the later coils just be sure to bypass any igniter.

Yep I think that would work

Too early for PC tuning on that one it is hand control only.

Most can be made to work but the 800-ss-RB-5 looks to be a conventional reluctor sensor. And will be fine to use.

Start by adjusting the master. The trim can then be used if needed as a fine adjustment. If your doing a full tune the master fuel will be enough and the trim can stay at 0. Tuning will take care of the rest.

That looks as expect. I think we need to get the unit back to test and fix.

Hi Antonis. We have very little information on the various throttle bodies and they are generally all a little different. If you have the option of send us the unit we can pin it out for you and advise suitable PID figures. There is a good chance it migh match the Ford Falcon throttle which the help file has information on. You will also need two TPS inputs and two FPS inputs (4 volt inputs) These are to give foot and throttle position feed back.

Im out of suggestions really. The TPS should read 100% as soon as the throttle is at 100% If this does not reach 100% fast enough it will give the error that target was not reached.

Yep that is not at all what I would expect to be seeing. It would be worth checking the ECU internal voltages through the runtimes screen (F12)

Check what the MAP is reading at key on engine not running. If it matches the baro then it is likely atmospheric changes (however rather large one) If Baro is out compared to MAP then we do have an issue that will need investigation.

Give this a try.

You are running out of available dwell time at that RPM you only have 4.3ms between firing events. You will likely have a 1ms spark duration which drops the available dwell to 3.3ms This is a primary reason multi coil applications came about.