Simon

There is a good chance you are not getting a cam signal to the ECU or the timing of it is not correct. Trigger two should be connected to the cam position sensor. If this is missing you will get a trig 1 but no RPM reading.

Best bet is going to be to check the pattern for triggers on the engine. Can you get a two channel scope image of a full engine cycle showing Crank trigger and Can on the same screen. Or manually degree out the engine so you can send a diagram like what I have attached for the 2NZFE

On the PC you will need to adjust the high and low figures till the TPS reading moves between 10-100.

I would try the 2NZFE trigger mode.

Are you using a plugin unit or a wire in? The base map in the ECU should start the engine once you have been through and checked TPS span base ignition timing and basic configuration. At worst the master might need moving a little.

Coil ground should go to the block as this will be a high current draw ground. The PCM ground can be grounded to the ECU signal ground. Interference will normall cause connection issues with the PC and in very bad cases trigger issues and misfires when running.

Hi Do you have the engine code for this application? Its not one that I know has been tested but the engine code will at least let us know if its going to be close. The best way is to check our pinout information in PC Link vs the car. If it is a match then it will most likely work well.

Chances are that will be fine. Only risk is if you do get interference issues you might have to move them.

This can be done using a GP limit table based on oil pressure.

I would be checking out the charging circuit including battery itself. A loose terminal on the battery could cause what you are seeing or a problem whit the alternator.

All signals like MAP TPS etc are on the money at key on? Engine RPM is correct, no anti theft turned on on the ECU or ecu hold power active.

The reason is that the V3 is only geared for distributor applications and as such the Ign2 drive is for honda igniters and is an inverted signal. This will cause your igniter and coil to cook themselves. To make this work for wasted spark you need a upgrade to V5.

If you have access to another sensor it would be worth a try. It could be that you have a very quiet engine too.

Sweet they have added their own plug to our loom. So in this case yes the colours will match assuming its a R34 Gtt ecu.

Are you able to get a PC log as it leans out and what would be really good is a scope image of the injector drives.

There will continue to be small fixes but if you wish to use the analogue version of knock you will be stuck on your current firmware.

Soft cut is a 50% cut of ignition. Hard cut is 100% of fuel and ignition cut. Soft + hard is 50% ignition until hard limit is hit and then it cuts both. You do not have a fuel only cut option.

You could roll back the firmware. This would put the unit back to being G3 spec.

Yeah they are a cool device but not likely to be integrated into an ECU as it would blow the cost and size out too much.

You will need to download the help file as a separate file from here http://www.linkecu.com/support/downloads/pclink-download/PCLink%20G1%20to%20G3%20Help.chm As it is not able to be used with windows vista or later.

You might be able to do it as a piggyback but there is always a risk the factory might not like having things played with.

None of our G4 boards have a 2x4 connector can you post a photo?

oops just double checked the cal option is only on G4 firmware. You will need a map sensor that matches one of the options in the drop down list

Hand control only on that ECU. You are correct it is a LEM G1 V3

If you use the serial side of the box this will be a more likely to work option as no drivers are required if you have a serial port. It is more likely the ECU does not support PC tuning