Simon

Cam Angle Test The Cam Angle Test is a function designed to assist with diagnostics of VVT control position signals. It can be used to determine the correct Offset value for a VVT Control Digital Input and assists with technical support inquiries. The purpose of the Cam Angle Test function is to display the position in crankshaft degrees ATDC where each position pulse occurs. Cam angle test information can be found in the F12 runtime data menu. Using Cam Angle Test To activate the Cam Angle Test Function, perform the following steps: 1.Ensure a Cam Position Digital Input has been wired and configured.2.Select the appropriate VVT Control Channel in the Cam Angle Test list.3.Select the Test Pulse Count. This is the number of teeth on the cam trigger wheel (you can adjust this later if the number of teeth is unknown).4.Observe the cam teeth positions by looking at the parameter Cam Angle #X on the VVT tab of the Runtime Values window (F12 Key).5.Run the engine above the VVT RPM Lockout and ECT Lockout values.6.The position at which each cam pulse occurs will be displayed. If the positions appear to be changing erratically, then the wrong Test Pulse Count may be selected. Either adjust Test Pulse Count until the values become stable or disassemble the motor and count the teeth on the cam. After the values have stabilised, the lowest Cam Angle #X angle avlue above 0.0 is the value that should be used for that VVT Control channels Offset value. The cam will be in its relaxed position (ie not controlled) while the Cam Angle Test function is turned on.

With those fitted make sure the internal pullup is turned off in the Di settings

Hi Ray I'll do what I can to push for this but there is no shortage of work for engineering team so a lot of items do have to wait. Can you send through the Email with the logs and PCL again as I can not find it in searching mine.

Hi Ray There have been a number of changes to the firmware since 4.7 (V series /G4 firmware) Ashley is no longer with the company so unfortunately I can't chase him. What are your complaints with it and what would you suggest is required to improve on it?

Hi The 2GR cam sensors require a external pullup as the internal one is too stiff. See in the PC link tuning software help file Navigation: Wiring Information > Input Signal Wiring > Trigger Inputs > Specific Trigger Applications > Toyota 2GR-FE Cam

Yes that Sub-board will suit the H22a. You will need to wire trigger 1 to the 4 tooth pickup in the distributor trigger 2 to the single tooth.

Better to get an Atom or Monsoon if its a fresh install putting money and time in to a unit that old would be far better spent on a modern unit. The end result is so much better. Assuming the ECU is unchanged from when it left Link it would do the H22a application.

Yes it is possible to use this but only 1/2 of it combined with a crank trigger (60-2) The MK5 golf sample file in the PC link base maps folder is set up this way.

For a possum link to be able to be PC tuned it needs to be q or later suffix. So WRX97p is not able to be but WRX97q/r/s are able to be.

Unfortunately CAN 2 is not an option as it was only added on later hardware (version 1.4)

If you have had it up and running on the stock ECU then no wiring changes will be needed. And our unit will happily run it this way in wasted spark. You can still adjust the dwell times to suit the coils as required.

I think it might be a slightly unique case where you have a negative idle trim. (it should not be doing it but think you might be able to work around the issue) Looking at your throttle target map you have a number of 0 targets but then jump to an 18% target at 3% throttle. See if you can make the car idle ok jus ton the main throttle table. Set your idle control to open loop sol/stepper. This will then disable the idle control totally. Then work on you target table to get a good low idle at operating temp. This should then allow you bring in idle control and only run positive corrections.

The TT plug just shares the required signals to the Haldex there are no adjustment functions for it.

Is the engine running when you are getting no response? Currently you have the When Stalled setting on Quiet Throttle. This will shut the E throttle off until there is an RPM signal.

I'm no RX7 guru but there is a good chance the Tacho was driven off a coil negative signal in which case it will need to be internally modified. Or you can use a relay coil switched by the ECU to recreate a coil negative signal.

That is looking quite different to any of the existing patterns the crank looks the most unique. I'm assuming its an iVtec so will have variable cam timing?

The key will be to set the ignition channel to Test on and then see if you have the correct signal / spark. With an igniter connected I would expect the signal to only go to roughly 7V

On a quick scan you will need trigger 2 input. If you only have the 2 cam sensors it will be one of these. Check the pic link help file to confirm lh or rh bank. Ign 3 would have been a tachometer output on the v5 this would be better wired to a aux on the fury. solenoid power will need to be a switched supply could be from coil or injector supply.

If you select open loop Solenoid/stepper it will disable the control on the E throttle as there will be no Aux output then assigned for Idle control. Getting the idle stable with no external corrections is the first step and this will all be done on the main tune. Think old school carburetor cars that didn't have a idle control other than a choke cable/knob.

Aux 1 is run to both those pins on the header. On the R32 GTR pin 106 is for fuel pump control on other models it is not used. On the R33 RB25DET pin 113 is used for the cam control. Regards SImon

Had a bit of a discussion and either option would work. The negative to option 2 would be that if you change the boost target table you would then also have to change the base duty table. The tuners out there would likely have more knowledge on what works well in the real world applications.

You can also use the ignition test function to check each cylinder 1 by one. This will also confirm if the jumper settings are correct.

Later firmware did allow higher Dis to be use. Just a note on the I series you are now able to use the Link G4+ tuning software and firmware so there are a number of updates available.

Thanks PitBull Looking at file using the compare I can not see any area that should cause the starting issues. As a long shot you could restore the ECU to factory settings and then load a base map store and then finally put your file in from pre upgrade. You can also roll back the firmware if you wish to the pre upgrade version and see if the issue still occurs.

Thanks for the Update Dan good to know all is sorted.