Simon

Pins 48 and 57 have 5V Pins 60 and 50 are signal ground Pin 27 is the AFM signal in which is suitable to be converted to the map signal

If you post your map as it is now we can also simulate on the bench. It could be something like Engine kill or ECU hold power going active.

Thanks coupe-r

If you get to high in the frequency the speed reading will drop back to 0. A tooth count of 12 would be a good point to work to.

What model of G4 do you have is it a plugin or a wire in?

Yes you can do this. Any signal that is shared and requires a pull up should only have the pullup active on one of the units. So for triggers if it is a Opto/Hall signal then the Link ECU should have the pullup turned off.

Next will be to check the cal of the LC1 which can be done by connecting up the LC1 to the PC using innovates software.

Are you firing on the correct engine stroke for the ignition? If running 4 coils you could be firing 360 out and firing on the exhaust stroke. Also another possible cause would be if the coils were wired with no igniter and then you have a very weak spark.

When testing are you using the function as FAN and then lowering the on temp? As if doing this the ECU requires a RPM signal before turning on the fans.

Hmm so I have now run this on the bench and have the same issue with the trigger scope. Will need to do some more testing to see what is going on.

The SMAZIO is a diode but it from another part of the circuit board I grabbed the image off. On this circuit the transistor has an inbuilt diode for protection. So no external one required.

Just in the Run times (F12 or R key) then in the triggers limits tab.

Yes if you are getting large numbers in the table and not getting 100% injector DC then lowering the master will give you the range required.

Hi To date of all the factory trigger patterns we have worked with that are multi tooth all have been divisible into 360. Including a factory injected KTM which was a 36-2 from memory. The issue is if it does not divide in evenly you will get rounding errors on calculating the engine position. Will be interesting to see what engineering think on this if there are factory systems doing it.

Those are what I would expect to see. Do you get an RPM reading and no trigger errors in this mode?

Fully agree it will be a popular application but so would a WRX V11, EVO X, Mini R56 or Golf Mk5........ the list is very long of potential projects I know there are a number of 5 cylinder Volvos running that dealers have worked on but we do not have the specifics on what they have done to achieve this. I suspect Sutkale is on the money with it being a 60-2 with a cam sync.

Have you used the correct output from the LC1? One is a narrow band output 0-1V and the other is a 0-5 wideband And it is a LC1 not the later LC2?

Either option would work well Relay or transistor Attached image is the circuit we use on some of our plugins. The ECU power is then from the main relay.

One option would be to use a traction disable switch. You could get tricky and use a Aux output looped to the Di and then have the AUX settings set up to only disable in first gear.

Unfortunately we have more than enough to keep us busy as far as projects go. On the original post the main issue will be the Auto control as we are not set to control the auto in most applications.

It sounds like the cam offset for the vvt is not correct. Running the CAM test fuction to confirm the correct offset is entered would be the first step. How to do this is covered in the PC link help file. (Just search CAM test)

Can you post a image of you trigger settings or copy of the map in the multi tooth mode so we can check them over.

Tooth count is 6 teeth not 3 on the crank? 3 teeth would give you 6 pulses for a full engine cycle (two turns of the crank) but this is entered as 3 teeth location crank.

The Red sticker indicates it has been serviced at some point in its life. Wiring wise manual below will be what you are after http://forums.linkecu.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=2538

Q1: No stock set up is fine. Q2: No wiring changes will be required. Just the configuration of the ECU through PC link