Simon

Hi we can replicate this on the bench. Engineering will apply a fix in a coming release.

Quick tune will require you to be in cell centers it can be set to auto but it is hard to know when you are in a cell with out a passenger. The later G4+ Series introduced mixture map tuning which is much better for this type of tuning. The other option is to use closed loop lambda and then when you strop driving do a store to the ECU to lock the changes in before turning off the power to the ECU.

With the arming voltages they are to help eliminate the possibility of background noise causing issues. In theory there should be no background noise so the arming voltages can be very low. However this is often not the case. The existing zone steps blend so that as you approach the next cell it start to impact the arming voltage its not like it does a big jump as you go into the next cell.

I'm assuming the DSG has its own control box that takes the signals for shift requests and does the control of solenoids etc?

You will be able to get TPS and speed signals through the can bus. On the factory auto/DSG models there is also a Torque output from the factory ECU. I don't think this is in our CAN stream. I can check with the engineers when they are back after new years.

All testing was on manual cars so none of the CAN data for the DSG is known.

What happens if you manually ground pin 16? Have you confirmed you have ground to the battery on pin 107

If you set Aux 2 as test PWM and adjust the frequency are you able to make the Tacho operate? On the bench with you map Aux 2 is acting as expected and pulsing with RPM increasing in frequency as RPM increases.

It would be worth checking the base timing is correct but other than that will be no impact to the map. Yes as if the Sync moves to the other side of the tooth after the gap it will think the crank has done a 360 shift and it will spike the RPM massively.

ECU wise fine to have it set as Hall with the pullup turned off and triggering on the rising edge. Its not really the correct solution but might be enough if there is no ability to shift the cam or crank triggers.

You could try adjusting the duty cycle. Also posting your full map might help us track the issue down.

Blaine is correct the scope shows the correct polarity for both triggers. Is it an option to move the position of the crank or cam sensor? You have a zero crossing on the Sync very close to the zero crossing of the tooth after the gap. With a small bit of movement this will cause issues.

The Tacho control is where all the settings are configured. You should have much like in the image.

Check that there is only one output assigned as Tacho and that you have a suitable multiplier typically 1

I would be treating it as a 6T stepper. Will be a case of working out the winding pairs and then trying from there.

Calibrate the TPS Check the base timing Then check the mixture at idle and adjust the master fuel to get it ok. Allow the engine to warm up and then see if it will take throttle.

Under what conditions are you wanting the cut to be turned off? Currently there is a TPS lock out available that will stop it cutting until a set TPS point

Yes correct. White is CAN H and the Green is CAN L

Thanks for the detailed info on the igniter. Trigger 2 should only be connected to G1 or G2 but not both. The stock igniter is not compatible with the Link you will need to change this out for a basic 3 channel igniter a Bosch 0-227-100-203 would be a really good choice.

We can test / repair the unit if required but be sure to head over to http://www.linkecu.com/contact/ecu-service-requests/ It is super rare that it is an ECU issue.

Check that you have 12V to one side of the solenoid when you put the key on. If you then ground the other side the solenoid should energize (click open) To test the drives the test function is what you would use.

Hi Steve The Di channels require a 1.5 volt signal to trigger. If at low RPM it could be that the voltage is too low. Are you looking at the F12 runtimes window on the VVT screen or at the DI status?

Hi Jase The Vi-pec and Link units are identical no differences in firmware there are hardware differences on the plugins but that is just to make it a plugin, No differences in the trigger circuits or decoding. I would expect if you did a back to back the results should be identical.

Its hard to damage a Aux output as they are current protected and will shut off at 2 amps. If it clicks at key on then that would indicate the solenoid is being held open and should then result in max boost being applied.

The Aux switches ground the solenoid needs 12V from a key switched supply. If you have no noise when in Test PWM mode then there is an issue with the wiring on either side of the solenoid. Or the Aux drive has been damaged.