Simon

The best is direct fire ignition but as you have the Atom you do not have the available ignition drives to allow this, So you have to run wasted spark and pair up the wiring of the coils.

Wiring pinout is as looking in to the plug from the wire side. Looking at what you have there the Cranks sensor wiring looks wrong as this should be wired to Trig 1, Ground and maybe 12V depending on the sensor type.

The Peak and hold currents can be adjusted directly but not the time that they are in each mode. The main adjustment you will need to make is to the Master Fuel value a Lower number will be normal for bigger injectors. The Dead times will also need to be set to suit the new injectors.

Trigger settings in the ECU will need to be Multi Tooth missing. Set trigger 2 sync mode to none. Wiring wise you will only be connecting to the trigger 1 input.

From the dark old G1 days I can confirm the sensors are fine on a battery feed non regulated. (might not be the case on say a 16V system) The coils trigger wire is able to be wired direct to the ECUs ignition outputs.

All Aux channels on the Storm are rated to 2A if trying to drive more then they will shut down. Channels 1-8 can do PWM outputs. The ECU is normally switching the ground side.

Hi Bleu In the Accel settings there is a spot for setting the Enrichment mode, if this is on MAP then all accel fuelling will be based of the change in MAP. A TPS input will generally react faster and there is the possibility this will help.

Hi Rampant It can do but it is not intended to be used this way. Its intended purpose is to keep the fueling as close as possible under cruise conditions. And in situations where emissions might be tested.

Yes the resistor just needs to be fitted in series with each injector.

Depending on the age of the Atom it could be one of the early units that did have injector drives more prone to failure. But generally when the drives failed they wend to a short to ground causing the injector to be stuck on. I would certainly confirm all the loom is 100%. Swapping over to the second ECU will be a big step to proving this. Just make sure there is no short to 12V on that drive before connecting the replacement unit.

The video above will help you I think. Note the I series is able to be controlled and upgraded with the Link software.

That book is about all the info there is for that unit. It is a G1 and is not able to be PC tuned so the tuner will need a Hand controller to allow any adjustments. No upgrades for this one.

You will 99% of the time be fine with out the suppressor. No risk of a fatality to the ECU without this fitted. Worst case is if you end up with electrical noise causing a missfire.

The Atom does not offer Launch control.

Yes it requires the tune to be in Modeled mode as for some reason Toyota use instantaneous fuel consumption to operate the fuel gauge. So best bet is to tune this way from the start.

For the MAP input you can use the existing factory MAP wiring. On the IAT there is a factory input on pin 38 of the ECU which would run to the stock IAT if fitted. This wiring can be used if it is there. On the O2 same again this can be used to bring in a wideband signal.

Can you send or attach the PCL file/MAP from the ECU so we can look at all the settings.

On the bench this looks to be operating correctly. However initially I noticed it was locked out as Launch control was active, once I put the speed reading above the launch deactivation point it then operated. If you have been checking this with the car stationary this will be the issue. I would also suggest that a 40% trim is on the large side 5-10% would be much more normal. It should not need to be any bigger. If the fueling is that far out there is a tune or other issue. If you want to use it as a tuning tool, quick tune or mixture map are much better options.

I really like the look of the offerings from AIM which being based in Europe might make the pricing not too bad. The Iq3s are not as flexible in configuration as the Dash 2 pro.

You will need to go through and configure the ECU to suit how it has been wired. You will need to set the triggers to suit the motor (suspect for your application it will be EVO1-3 trigger mode), set base timing and then maybe adjust the fuelling.

Yes the shop / dealer will need to supply the code. They will need the ECU serial number to do this.

The Hot feed needs to be a hot feed direct from the battery it should not be switched. The reason for this is to avoid any possible voltage drops and in turn issues around the injector control.

Also make sure you are tuning on MGP for the main fuel table. If this is set to MAP it will not correct for Baro.

Hi Fant You could still get baro correction by adding a overlay table spanned of BAP and then apply the correction this way. If you were to run traditional mode it would also be fine. I can say it certainly wasn't designed for Alpha/N but was intended to be suitable for this mode of tuning. The Modelled fuel mode is a recent addition which has introduced this issue. The fix shouldn't take too long but we want to do some testing as it is a bug that could have an impact on a number of areas so the time delay will be around testing.

Engineering have taken a look and have found a issue that will cause the errors to vary from a small difference to a very big one. At this point DO NOT use BAP for the load. One option is as Adam mentions above to try.