Simon

You want the master to sit where the table numbers are in the mid range of the adjustment so around the 100 mark at mid power. Get the main tune done fully and then go in and adjust crank enrichment.

They are one and the same thing. Just different description.

Yep the boost cut is the MAP limit. The type of limiting is fixed you can't choose fuel or ignition.

You could eat off that engine but guess you wouldn't want to get it dirty!

You will need the G1 PClink version 2.5. This can be found http://www.linkecu.com/app/site/media/sitemedia.nl/id.16253/.f

On the G4+ units knock is onboard ready to go. Of course it will do all the rest too

If its on to a plugin it will need a ballast (resistor pack) This will effect dead times

Good news is the retard is working its just the Ignition angle is not reflecting the true ignition angle. If you were to but a fixed retard in the table and check with a timing light you will see the timing shift.

Hi Could you post the full PCL file. Then we can run on the bench.

I suspect not as with it being a V44 based unit the DIs will not exist on the main board. The ultimate telltale will be to power the unit up and check what is available in the tuning software. The Di's would be the only ones useful if they were available.

Hi Michael Yep they will work well for the task. You will just have to set up knock in the ECU to suit the engine noise profile.

Yep. If it was me I think I would be fitting a couple of extra senders to run the ECU.

Check the input to the ECU pin is changing with the button press. We need to know if it is at say 12Volts while AC button is off and the goes to 0Volts when on. It could also be the opposite way around. Once we get the request working the next step is making sure the output functions.

There is no map cal option on the G1 GTS but the TPS will need manually calibrating by adjusting the TP high and low numbers till it spans 10 -100. (this is much easier to do on the remote) Manual can be found http://forums.linkecu.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=2534

Serial is not an option unless the device can work with our PClink protocol. This can not be changed as it is what PC link uses for all its communication.

Thanks that is much clearer and I can see the issue. Will get engineering to check.

After taking a bit more time and reading the full post it makes sense now. Red wire will need to go to the feed into the resistor pack (battery + side of the resistor pack) Green wire will go to the ECU side of an injector.

From our info it looks like the tacho should be driven direct from the coil/igniter. However if it is ECU driven this will be no problem at worst a pullup might be required to get the required signal.

I would say if its doing that you are out of luck in sharing the signals. You will have to pick ECU or gauges.

Hi RH 9 Attached is a screen shot of your map with your log open. You will see the limit is being activated and you have a fuel cut happening up to a max of 80% Note this is likely to sound very different to the factory limiter but it will still stop the engine revving any higher. You can see in the log it is holding the RPM

Hi Mapper Could you expand on what the issue is. A screen shot and better explanation will help.

You should be able to share the signal no problem. You can feed the signal to an AN volt channel for the pressure and a temp channel with pullup turned off for the temp input. You can then do a calibration based off voltage. Simply measuring the voltage in Vs the gauge reading. Using Cal 1-3 and having the input set as volts and out put as temp/pressure.

On the base file the gear detection is unlikely to be set up. Main thing is to make sure you have a driven and non-driven speed source assigned in the chassis and body section (they can be the same source) Then work through the calibration process for the gears.

The 1JZ non vvt would be close to the Supra base file in the PC lin base maps folder. A dealer might help with a vvt file.

Whether or not the EFI resistor is needed is going to depend on the resistance of your injectors. If they are around 2-3ohms then the resistor needs to be used. If they measure around 12-13ohms then the resistor should be removed.