Simon

It would run the engine if configured to suit. As mentioned above that unit only has 4 ignition and fuel drives so would have to be run as a wasted spark, group fuel setup.

We can give the ECU an overhaul as it will be getting on in years and solder joints can fail over time. There is also a sub-board on those ECUs that if the contacts get dirty you could get intermittent issues. If you want for $150+gst we can do a full service on the unit to at least rule it out.

We can offer a board swap where we replace the bottom board of the ECU and replace with the 2.5 model. Flick us an email for costings on this. I'm assuming it is only the intake cams variable on your engine.

Hi There are some later model solenoids that are 3 wire but they run like a 2 wire unit. The connections are then Power, Ground and a signal To confirm this you would need a wiring diagram for the car it came off or measuring on a working car/engine.

Should be very similar to that. Looks like about a 30% duty cycle in that capture. Should be very similar to that. Looks like about a 30% duty cycle in that capture.

As the Subaru VVT is fully variable the V5 is not able to control this. It is only able to do simple on off VVT control.

Hi You would need to double the peak and hold currents to allow for the 2 injectors per drive.

Make sure you do not have a back feed issue. Try disconnecting the battery or unplug the ECU and then connect.

Woops fell in to the G4 not G4+ trap you can not worry about the 5.6.2 firmware bit. The really important bit to remember is most engines will idle without any idle control once set and tuned correctly. Idle control is there to allow for changes in engine load and for faster idle during warmup. So provided the engine is warm and there is no changes to engine load (AC, Power steering, engine fans, lights etc) engine should idle fine just on the throttle opening. A copy of the MAP, and a PC log of all parameters will let us know more of what is going on

Yes it can be saved and loaded back in but you can not read the figures or settings.

Yep that would be the case.

To get it running just start with the base numbers. Change fuel table and maybe ignition to tps. Set timing and then adjust master fuel to suit.

Make sure you are on latest firmware or at least 5.6.2 as this has a fix for stepper idle control. There are also some extra settings to help with what you are seeing. Also make sure the motor will idle (lower than normal) with the stepper blocked off. Also check that stepper is operating in correct direction bigger base numbers should give lower idle.

Check the tach settings. There is a multiplier make sure this is set to 1 not 0 You can also do a test pwm on the drive. Changing the frequency will change the tach reading.

This can be done. The locked map only hides the set up and tune information.

Stock igniter is fine. ECU wise we can take a 0-5volt input and temp sensor wise just about any style can be used as long as they are a varying resistance. For the camp 2 units you might be able to share the signal direct from the sensor. I would suggest an XS loom to allow easy wiring of addition (non stock) sensors.

Yep the Xtreme will go up to 10 peak and 3 hold. Anything under that is mint.

Its going to depend on the CAN signals and if they happen to match those used in the TT. If the layout of the data is the same then you will likely be able to replace the stock ecu totally. If not then retaining stock ecu and doing a piggy back might be easier. Historically Audi seem to have kept things similar.

I'm not suggesting an issue with the sensor. It could be that there is a relay causing noise on the trigger wires and this is keeping the pump running. The other option could be the pump has been rewired to run all the time. Did it use to do this before? One common issue on the old Subarus is that the earths can fail sometimes it is often worth running fresh wires through to the ECU. Also on the hand control scroll to another screen other than RPM and then crank the engine. If the hand control resets to RPM then this indicates the ECU is seeing low voltage at crank.

Manual attached. TPS wise any that you make fit will be fine. MX5+.pdf

On the G1 the pump should prime for 3 seconds and then stop if there is no trigger input from a cranking engine. If it continues to run without the engine cranking then this would indicate there are false triggers on the crank sensor wires. Do you have a hand control to check ECU with?

Hi Yeah the joys of a mix and match application. Suspect the sensor polarity's might have been played with to try and make the stock ECU work with the mixed up cam triggers. I can assure you on a stock car (no mix and match going on) the units are a very easy to install and have up and running once the basics have ben checked.

You will have to work your way through the help file on all the E throttle settings I would expect the set up to be very similar Toyota Altezza for which we have a good base map in the base maps folder.

Suspect the following fix will be the solution for 1320 Mini Lambda Average now includes inputs from CAN-Lambda.

Only very fractionally as it such a low resistance value the effect would be negligible.