Simon

Only negative is the potential to damage the tracks / pads when drilling out the holes and it looks a bit ugly.

Yes a generic relay will do the trick though you would want to remove the mechanicals out of it as the buzzing would be rather annoying.

Make sure the control solenoid is plumbed correctly to the wastegate and from the intake. If you were to put the duty cycle to 100% does the car make max boost? Can you confirm the solenoid operates when testing?

In the log it looks like it is doing everything correctly in as much as it is putting a duty cycle out to the solenoid. If the solenoid is operating in test mode then it would be likely a plumbing issue.

VDO stuff will often work on both a low level (ecu signal) or a high level signal (coil negative) If you were to connect to the ECU and not a coil negative there is no risk of damage to the tacho only risk is it might not trigger and give no reading. In which case the tacho would need to be modified for a low level signal, or another option is to drive a coil out of a relay and use the negative side to drive the tach.

They are a special package most 1Watts are much bigger. It's a PRO1F package.

No programing just a straight swap.

Yep it is going to be the speeding up and slowing down of the engine on compression that is causing the issue. As you have a cam sync, one option would be to modify the crank trigger to a 36 none missing then the ECU only counts teeth with out having to find a gap.

woops TPIC2701 Sorry no schematic that would still be classed as IP

On test PWM it should buzz continually until the function is changed back to WG Solenoid.

R48 is a 1ohm 1 watt resistor I should also point out that IC4 is also damaged this is a TPIC2071

It is a 4bar sensor (3 bar of boost)

Looking at the log and the MAP I can see the WG duty is showing at 38%. The map shows 28.5% in the DC table. I am assuming that the map is different to the one the log was taken from? However running your map on a Storm on the bench gives a matching DC and pulsed output that matches. If you set the output to Test PWM do you hear the solenoid working? (Engine not running)

A quick fix is to put a couple of diodes inline which drops the voltage enough.

You will need to wire up the ECU to a OBD plug and then use a Bluetooth or similar dongle to transmit to the tablet. The wiring for the OBD can be found in the PCLink tuning software help file.

The main top board has the hardware required to control E throttle. On some other models we have been adding E throttle support (EVO4-8, WRX 7-9) as we have revised the bottom boards. We are able to do this on your V4 plugin as a one off by adding wire links to bring out the required outputs. Its not as tidy but can be done. We would charge a hourly rate to do this. And need the ECU.

When test is on you should see 0 volts as the drive will be turned on and providing a ground Off the drive is floating and you will see a voltage. As you change the state of test on/off you should hear the BCS click It should have no impact on the ISC. Are you sure AUX 7 is wired to the BCS?

On a bit of a Wiki read up it would appear that if you have the FSI engine it is a direct injected engine and the Atom is not going to be suitable at all for that application. You would need to look at the G4+ Force ECU to run this engine.

Can report that the fault has been able to be replicated and engineering will have resolved in the next release.

Either the stock WRX sensor or a GM 3bar if you need more range I think from memory those are the only 2 options on the old G1

Hi Yes an injection drive will be fine. Will get the engineering team to check the Trap log as this should not be happening. Can you supply a copy of you map as we have not been able to recreate.

Yep that's how it should be. Only the parameters that are available for that drive should be able to be selected. Once we confirm the firmware and PC link version we will know more.

It will depend on the functions that the factory ECU was still controlling. A piggy back is used when there are functions that the ECU is not able to control so the factory is needed to be retained to run these functions. If say for example the factory ECU is controlling a E throttle then you would need to control this some how or modify to cable.

What firmware and PC link version are you running?

The only G4+ wire in with internal map is the new Monsoon. All the others require and external one. The Lighting, and RX units were G4 only units so thing the wiring manual you are looking at is for the earlier G4 units.