Adamw

I dont see anything suspicious in the log relevant to the WOT bucking. It looks like it happens around peak torque so possibly a misfire due to a lack of ignition energy. What engine and ignition system? Has the misfire only started since you changed the oxy sensor? Not relevant to your reported issue, but you do have something very wrong with your idle control set up, it is regularly kicking in and out of idle mode while you are driving along at significantly higher RPM than idle. This is pulling all the timing out so I suspect that makes it drive pretty horrible at times.

Im no coder, but I thought I would give a quick example. Usually in arduino you wouldnt even need to do any conversion - just declare your incoming bytes as "unsigned char" and your RPM variable type as "int" at the beginning of the sketch. I have attached an example from a device I made to send data into my dyno controller via bluetooth or wired serial, it might give you some ideas. This sketch reads 2 CAN messages on ID 1200 & 1300 then "prints" them to serial in a format my dyno controller could interpret (so be aware not all of these variables will be scaled with the correct resolution in this example as some of it is done later at the dyno end). There are probably far more efficient ways of doing this so dont take this as a good example or the way it must be done, my coding method is trial & error, then google it when it doesnt work... This did however do the job correctly from memory. Simple 2 ID CAN message read.txt

It looks like it is idling reasonably well in that log. Your lambda is still showing lean. The idle valve is opened to nearly maximum also, so you may need to open the BISS a little more.

The AEM user CAN stream is writing to the parameter "Lambda 1" rather than CAN AN 1, so change your lambda sensor control to "Link CAN" and it should work.

If the firing angles were wrong I would expect just one cylinder to be running bad and only one pipe hot. The fact both pipes are glowing a similar colour suggests the timing may be wrong on both cylinders? If your ignition event is very late, there is less piston stroke left to convert the combustion heat into torque from expansion, at BDC there is still only the normal amount of time for heat rejection, so the excess heat that wasnt converted into torque is instead rejected out the exhaust system/valves/ports/combustion chamber. Can you explain how you set the trigger offset/base timing.

Your best bet will be to contact [email protected] with some of the details to see what they can do.

Going from 63 to 64 is only about a 1.5% increase in fuel, that should barely be detectable. Im not sure if that would influence the starting much. With it idling, if you increase master to say 75, does RPM drop?

Inlet VVT target from our WRX, probably a decent starting point. Correct you dont have cruise control capability with that ecu. The speed sensor is quite nice to have as an extra lockout for idle control. How much it is needed I have found depends on your driving style a lot. I tend to clutch in when coasting up to traffic lights etc, so speed lockout doesnt make much difference in that case. But I have had customers that have complained of regular stalling before, and when I go for a drive around the block with them I find they tend to overrun all the way up to a stop, so with no speed lockout in that case the idle valve (or DBW throttle) will close during over-run (as idle control is trying to pull RPM down to idle speed), then when they finally clutch in there is no air in the manifold so the engine stalls.

Did you try just increasing the master by say 10%?

Are you sure the TDC angles are correct? Is one piston at BDC when the other is at TDC? Did you try 0/540 TDC points?

You can power up the ecu outside of the car by clipping power onto the TVS diode as shown below. 12V to the stripped end, gnd on the other.

So yes it sounds like your wiring is correct. The coil pin 3 is not needed. I cant really think of anyway a software setting could cause that. In the ignition settings is the spark edge set to falling? Can you disconnect the Ign1/2 wires either at the coil end or ECU end to see if that changes things?

Probably, but I dont think you will have an issue in a typical car. My dyno wideband has 12M of cable between probe and controller. I wouldnt worry about that too much, all our components are AEQ100 or 200 grade 1 rated (-40-125°C), the CAN lambda is nearly always hanging next to the exhaust or turbo so I dont think yours would be much different than normal... If you did extend the cable, be aware you must retain the factory connector on the sensor side as it has the calibration resistor inside.

Mostly sounds ok. On the coils, which pin to you have connected to ground and which one to 12v? Can you give us a photo of the crank sensor - those colors dont sound like cherry colors - they usually have brown, black, blue.

No, it is fixed. Doesnt need to be. CAN bus is often run backwards and forwards in the same bundle when you have long stubs etc. So something along these lines:

I would say your trig 1 arming thresholds are too high - and probably the trig 1 filtering too. In that top scope your trig 1 voltage is only about 3V, your arming threshold would usually want to be set to about half of that. Your threshold is set to 3.0V at 2000RPM and 3.5V from 3000RPM up, it looks like it would barely reach that voltage.

Dual channel closed loop is just the software strategy - this means you assign which injectors and which oxy probe belongs to each bank then the ecu will trim the fuel on both sides independently to keep the air fuel ratio as close as possible to target. So if one side is lean and one side is rich then it will add fuel to one side and remove fuel from the other. Single channel closed loop would be where you have only a single oxygen sensor in a common collector - or you have one each side but the ECU averages the reading from both, and applies the same fuel correction is applied to all cylinders. Since you have a Fury you would just need one CAN lambda connected for dual bank control.

You have no accel fuel as the cold correction table has zeros in it. I would also enable async injection as it means you need less accel enrichment. I will attach some pics of some settings that will get you in the ballpark. Also your Mivec is not working since it hasnt been calibrated. With the engine warmed up and held at fast idle - say about 1500RPM, go to VVT control>VVT setup>Cam Angle test and set it to calibrate, it should turn itself back to off in a couple of seconds. Change all settings in orange:

Possibly have some charge robbing going on. In sequential the fuel will be injected with timing relative to the cylinder TDC that it is located in. If you set injector timing to 400BTDC for example, then the Inj 1 will finish squirting at 400BTDC cyl 1. Inj 2 will finish squirting 180 deg later at 400BTDC for Cyl # 2. In multipoint mode with an injection rate of 1 per cycle the injectors will fire 360 degs apart, with no fixed relationship to which cylinder is firing or valve opening events etc.

If it has a common plenium and single throttle then air/fuel distribution will be decent enough that I would be happy with a single sensor. If you are going to ITB's or a throttle each side then probes on each side using dual channel closed loop can improve small throttle/low speed driving where there is the largest side to side error. Yes for the Fury you would add a CAN lambda for the 2nd probe.

Only AN Temp 1 & 2 have selectable pull-up resistors, AN Temp 3 & 4 are fixed 1Kohm. You can swap your gear pos with ECT or whatever to free up AN Temp 1 or 2.

Resume is always increase speed and Set is always decrease, not sure if its a good idea to reverse the convention. But you also wouldnt want to hold resume down to enable because if you had a high cruise speed set previously then it may run away on you as soon as it enables. So you really need to swap both your suggestions. Resume is up, Set is down. Hold the Set button to enable cruise. Use a GP delay for the "Cruise On" switch. Example below, a 1 sec hold on set (DI3) would enable cruise and set the speed to current speed. A short press on set would decrease speed. A press on resume would increase speed if cruise status is active, or resume to previously set speed if status was enabled. Cancel would either be tap the brake pedal or long press on SET.

Yes, those are old 2 channel Link ignitors. They share the same pinout as the 0227100200, except ours had an added tacho output for wasted spark setups, you wont need the tacho output with a link plus. Pinout below.

Does your question relate to a Link ECU or not? Sounds more like you need help from AEM, not Link ECU.

Scope looks ok, can you attach a copy of the tune.