Adamw

It all looks correct in that log to me. Where are you seeing 80%?

That should only be showing around 12% ethanol in that case. Can you check ethanol % again to confirm it is still at 80%. If it is can you do a quick log so I can take a look.

To see the DI frequency use the runtime screen above as you did for temp, go to the digital tab.

I dont see any good explanation for your apparent problem from the logs provided so far. Im not sure if there is actually noise on the trigger signal as the built-in scope doesnt really have adequate resolution or sample rate to capture it. I think we need to first confirm that it is actually mis-syncing, this would require a standalone scope connected to an injector and the cam sensor so you can confirm if the injector is always lined up with the long cam tooth or short cam tooth or if it does in fact randomly change at start up as you suggest. If it does randomly change then the only explanation that I could fit to the observation would be a noise related issue. But since we dont see any trigger errors in your logs at high RPM/Boost when electrical noise would usually be the worst, I have some doubts that there is a big noise issue. It would have to be something that only occurred at startup such as a voltage spike for the starter motor or similar. Actually, one other method I just thought of that you may be able to use to confirm injector timing/mis-sync. Quite often a timing light will trigger off an injector wire, so if you have a timing light, try clipping it around the injector wires to see if you get a flash. You can try both wires together and each wire separately. If you can get a timing light flash from the injector wires, then the way to use this would be to remove the top cam belt cover and paint a mark on one of the cam pulleys. When the car is running good, point the timing light at the cam wheel and take note of where the painted mark is. Next time it starts with the lean AFR then connect the timing light again and check if the paint mark is in roughly the same place or not. You dont need to be accurate as if it did mis-sync then the paint mark would be on the completely opposite side of the wheel, 180 out.

No, the ecu has flywheeling diodes on the auxes inside the ecu. It sounds like the valve is dead from what you have described. Does it click if you use a couple of test wires straight from the battery to the valve?

I would either fit the later EJ throttle which has the single aux idle valve as Dx4picco suggested above or use a common bosch 2 or 3 wire valve that have simple hose barb type connections.

The edge setting doesnt effect the ethanol content, this comes from frequency. What frequency do you have showing on DI4?

Attach your most recent ecu tune and your dash config and I can set it up.

Do a trigger scope too please.

An AFR of 50 assuming that is quoted in gasoline stoich is only about lambda 3.4ish, so the built in CAN lambda mode would work with that.

Yes, the 5V is the supply for all sensors, "Ground Out" is the ground for the sensors. The +14V (A5 & B5) and the 4 black grounds are the main supplies for the ecu. This is fairly well covered in the help file, have a look at the section >Wiring Information>Power & Ground Wiring. I have pasted the normally suggested option below.

Measure voltage on pin E9 to see what you have there. Do it with engine off, ignition on. Need to know both the high and low voltage so you can either just dab the starter a touch at a time until you see the voltage change or you can pull the sensor out and check voltage with both some metal in front of it and no metal. A DI needs to rise above about 2V and fall below about 1V, I suspect you will find it is not falling below 1V since it shows active, this would be an issue with the ground.

Wasted spark ignition means you wire a pair of coils to a single ignition output on the ecu. You pair cylinders that fire 360deg apart so that when one cylinder fires near TDC compression, the other cylinder will get a spark near TDC exhaust stroke at the same time. The coils fire every 360deg rather than every 720. This spark on the exhaust stroke does nothing hence the term "wasted spark". With G4X you can still do individual cylinder knock control and ignition trims etc with wasted spark ignition, so really the only negative is your coils fire twice as often so they will run a bit hotter. For Lambda with an extreme you would use an external wideband controller. It is actually nice to have 2 lambdas for a V engine especially if it has 2 tail pipes and no X pipe, so that may be something to consider.

@atlex just for your interest, the BMW VANOS systems that have the 2 solenoids per cam are what BMW call "high pressure VANOS", they have their own separate oil pump driven from the cam chain that runs at something like 100bar. I've never seen anyone test how much the pressure varies with RPM or temperature, but I suspect it is probably much less variable than a more typical VVT system that uses normal engine oil pressure. @Johan E I have a similar suggestion to Atlex, I think this just needs some PID tuning. The first thing I would suggest is to go down the bottom of the ECU settings tree, go to the PID Setup item and set this to Inlet bank 1, we can then log the PID terms that are being used. In the VVT settings, change the PID Setup to custom, go to Inlet bank 1 settings and increase the filter to about 4-6, this should improve the noise in the position signal. For tuning the PID, this is how I would usually do it: Assuming CL idle is set up, change the idle target to about 1500 so it is running smooth. We want to do "step testing", by this I mean abruptly stepping between 2 VVT targets, I suggest 10 & 25deg as it will usually still idle happy at that. I like to do this by temporarily setting up some sort of switch condition on the VVT table axis, it depends what the car has available but for example if I have a high/low boost switch on the dash I set up like below (you can export your existing table to save it) Now while watching a timeplot of cam position Vs target (similar to what you have setup in your screenshot above), you can step between the 2 different targets, adjusting P, I or D one at a time to see the effect on response. Im not going to explain PID theory here in detail as there are hundreds of videos on youtube etc. But the basic idea is generally to increase P as much as you can, when you have a fast oscilation you have gone too far. Generally if position does just one or two bounces over/under target when you do a step change in target your P is about in the ballpark. You can increase D to dampen that bounce out. Increase I so any small error is removed as quick as poss. If you have too much I you will usually get a slow rolling oscillation. The tricky part is P, I & D all do influence each other, and they can cause similar effects in some cases, for example too much I, too much P or not enough D can all cause a similar looking overshoot, so sometimes it helps to look at those logged PID terms to see what is causing what. Looking at your pic above I would say you need more P and more I, D looks ok but often when you increase P you will also need to increase D.

Injectors are possibly seized, fairly common when they have been unused for sometime. Give them a few good taps with a screwdriver or similar while intermittently touching that wire to ground.

Very unlikely that 8 injector drives and 4 ign drives all failed at the same time. So these coils? What does it have for an ignitor between the ecu and coils? If you pull say injector 1 wire out of the ecu plug and briefly touch it on ground, do you hear the injector click when you do that?

The quickest way to see any less commonly needed channel is to hit F12 to open the runtimes screen, fuel temp is on the General tab and ethanol temp is on the Misc tab (both will be the same).

You've got the cam sensors either plugged into the wrong sensors or there is a wiring issue (not sure if the wires reach or the plugs are the same?). Your scope shows the intake cam pattern on trig 2 and the exhaust pattern on DI1, it should be the opposite. The intake cam has 4 evenly spaced teeth so there is no unique pattern to identify which rotation the crank is on. It will only be syncing by luck. The exhaust cam has 5 teeth so this is needed for sync, and in a stock car with stock wiring this is correctly routed to trig 2.

How is he determining this? Does he have a scope capture of cam sensor Vs injector pulse? My daily driver is an Evo7 with direct spark ignition so I can quite confidently say there is no sync issue with this trigger mode.

The factory sensors are fine provided it has the cams that match the sensors. Did you do the cam angle calibration? And while it was above 1500RPM and 40°C lockouts? Can you provide a log of it running above 1500 after it has had the calibration performed and a copy of the tune also.

What ECU do you have? Do you have factory ignitor, coils & cluster? Temp gauge and RPM working on the dash?

Change the DI edge to rising and check the temp reading then looks realistic. Note this will change your fueling quite a lot if it was tuned with this set wrong. There are no trigger errors in any of your logs attached yet, but none of them show any high RPM use either. It is normal for trigger 1 status to show counting, timeout, tooth before gap and tooth after gap when it is working normally.

The S50US doesnt need a special trigger mode as it is just a generic 60-2 crank and single-tooth cam. Set up like below with sync tooth set to 5. The trigger offset will likely be around either 275 or -85. The cam sensor in the middle at the front of the cam sprocket needs to be connected to trig 2, the sensor on the intake side behind the intake cam sproket needs to be wired to a digital input (DI1-4). The Advance/retard solenoids need to be wired to Aux 1-4 and you need to cut off the factory connectors as they have diodes inside them. The top solenoid is the advance (pressure), bottom is retard (bleed).

Use google drive or similar to share the log. Also a copy of the tune and a trigger scope captured at 5000RPM would be useful.

The 4 individual wheel speeds are sent in the MSX stream. I suspect the problem with the wheel speeds not working will be because you have the MXS stream and the DASH2PRO stream both being sent on ID 1000, so they are likely over-writing each other and causing bus errors. Either turn off dash2pro or use a different ID. The ECU and dash will need a custom stream set up to use the fuel level resistance from the BCM.