Adamw

Can you attach a copy of your tune. With the engine off but pump running, if you feed say 20psi into your FPR with the mityvac, does the f press reported in the ecu increase by 20psi? Not related to your fuel press issue, but your RPM and dwell looks horrible, I cant imagine the spark timing is very stable like that. What do you have for a trigger?

In your existing drawing the coil for the isolation relay wont have 12V until the relay contacts are closed so it would never turn on. I havent thought through all scenarios in detail but you could possibly have the relay coil connected directly to batt+ if you have a spare ignition or injector output to use instead of the aux. The rest of the plan should work ok I think. For the kill input use a DI, assign it to the stop switch function and enable the latch. I suspect you would need to set the active state to low which may seem counter-intuitive but this would make it latch off during power up rather than latch on.

The idea of a seperate dog unload and main shift stage is with dog engagement gears you want an short/sharp torque reversal just to get the dogs separated, once they have released the goal is just to slow the engine down enough so the shaft speeds arent vastly different for engagement. In a synchro gearbox there is no undercut on the dogs and the clutch does the unloading so in theory you dont need a different cut for the disengagement Vs engagement. I would set the dog unload duration to 0, so you dont need to worry about any of the dog unload settings, your whole shift will be handled by the "main shift" settings. For a synchro flat shift, the start shift mode would usually be "digital input" using a clutch switch, the end mode can be digital input or time. Digital input means the cut will be active for the whole time the clutch is pressed, time means you would have a table controlling how long the cut is applied for for each gear. Both have pros and cons - to get the shortest possible shift in digital end mode the clutch switch needs to trigger in the right points (adjustable) and that will change with clutch wear etc. For the time based end mode the driver needs to be fairly consistent with how fast he pulls the lever and the timing between pedal and lever movement. Start with about 80% severity and 200ms duration if using time mode.

Yes, it should be set as per Vaughans picture, the civic plug-in has a separate high-side drive circuit for aux 5 & 6 on the adapter board.

All GM sensors are the same calibration so from that perspective it should work. Just the accuracy and reliability of an unknown manufacturer and origin will be your gamble.

Cruise switch is irrelevant. You should have 12V coming from fuse 18 to the clutch switch, from there it goes through the normally closed switch, straight to ecu pin A1. So A1 should see 12V when the clutch isn't pressed and 0V when it is pressed.

Not easily. There was a manufacturing oversight with the JZX100 adapter board which left CAN1 unconnected. It could be done by soldering a couple of wire links in but that would want to be done by Link or someone experienced. Does the device not have a selectable bitrate?

Is the bitrate set to 1mbit? The JZX CAN2 has the multiplex converter on it which runs at 1Mbit so anything connected will also need to use 1mbit. Some OBD2 devices maynot support 1mbit.

It sounds like a bad connection then if wiggling the cable causes it to disconnect and reconnect.

It should work as is with no changes. Make sure pull-up is off and active state is set to high.

I havent tested this but the example below should give you something similar to what you describe. The kill switch is wired to DI4 and the tracker to DI3. Virtual aux 1 is used for the "kill conditions" - If the engine isn't running and either the kill switch or tracker inputs are active then VA1 will be true. When VA1 is true the GP RPM limit will be using the bottom row of the table - i.e RPM limit is 0, so the engine wont start. If the tracker/DI3 is activated when the engine is running then that will start timer 1 running, the GP limit table will be working in the top row which has the RPM limit reducing to 0 over 40 seconds.

Just the CAN, leave the analog disconnected.

Does windows do the normal "dingdong" when you plug the cable in?

Assuming you do have free play in the cable and the blade is not sticking then it would most likely be a worn sensor or bad ground/ground offset.

Yeah, no point in connecting the boost gauge. For the other two, just connect AEMNet + to CAN H and AEMNet- to CAN L.

Zero out that fuel trim on cyl 2 to see if that has anything to do with it.

Your engine is making no vacuum so something doesnt seem happy there. Cam timing out maybe? Have you confirm ignition timing is correct? You can try setting the idle ignition control MAP lockout to something like 110Kpa so it still kicks in without vacuum, but it seems more like something is mechanically wrong if it cant produce manifold vacuum at idle.

It should be a 4 pin plug for the USB. They originally came with a short adapter lead with a mini USB bulkhead connector on the other end that you can mount in a dash panel or similar. This one here: https://www.aimshop.com/products/aim-usb-adaptor-719-binder You can make your own fairly easily if you can solder, I just cut the end off a random USB cable I had sitting around and soldered the binder plug on. The binder plug is part number 09-9767-70-04, you can get from RS components or similar. Pinout is here: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0214/9392/files/Adattatore_USB_eng.pdf

I have made some small adjustments that will hopefully be a step in the right direction. I have turned off over-run fuel cut for now as that was some of the cause of the stall during initial starting. I would usually only enable this near the end of the tuning process. You can use the file compare function to highlight other changes. G4+_928_6L_1 start and idle adjustments.pclr

I would not drive it hard until the tune is confirmed as safe. If it never made boost at 4000RPM before then that region of your ignition table would never have been tuned so it couldn't be assumed to be ok. Your ignition table looks a little aggressive for a 4G63 in my experience and there is no knock control setup so I wouldnt risk it.

Yes you can repurpose/extend the factory IAT wiring. The X series pressure gauge has both a CAN bus output and an analog output , so you can wire it to the CAN bus or and analog input on the expansion loom.

Does that gauge have a vent on it? I cant see it in the picture, but I wouldnt trust it if it doesnt have a vent. Usually there is a little rubber plug that you poke a pin hole through.

No, the ECU would need a real time clock and battery backup for that. PC logs are saved with the date and time as the file name by default, but this is only the save date, not the creation date.

Every map I can find from 2JZ NA and TT non-vvt has the trigger offset close to 0, say +/-10 at the most. So it suggests something is way out if your offset of 120 shows the correct spark timing.

No I dont see anything obvious in there. But 1 thing that is a bit odd in that log is just a few seconds after that point the differential fuel pressure jumped up to 330kpa from 300, and that's when the CLL correction started going back to normal. The fuel pump was still in low speed mode the whole time. So possibly whatever caused that jump in fuel pressure could be affecting other things (loose battery terminal or something like that?) You can usually roughly consider MAP x RPM as a strong relationship to airflow and injector effective PW is proportional to fuel flow, these were both stable before and after the jump in lambda and the jump in fuel pressure, so with stable air and fuel flow you should have a stable AFR (FYI, inj PW doesnt include the CLL trim), this suggests to me the change in fuel delivery is some external influence.