Adamw

For the dash, update your ECU firmware. You are on an old version from before the MXS CAN stream was added.

What doesnt work? Are you saying the mini stream works and my map doesnt? They are the same as far as I can see. I had traction control working fine in the car I tested.

Can you attach your tune.

I dont see much that would cause your issue in the tune. How sure are you the wideband is reading correctly? Could it be 1 cylinder is leaner than all the others? Is it always the same cylinder than drops out when you lean it out? You could try shifting the injector timing around in steps of about 50 deg and see if it is happier to go leaner with different timing - but it usually doesn't make much difference.

It doesnt look like you have a Link CAN lambda set up in the last map you attached. It does have some sort of CAN device set up but it is not a Link set-up. What lambda is it? It looks like a Motec CAN setup?

Probably the most artistic picture on this forum... Are you sure? It should be a LSU4.9, no Link product supports the 4.2. The sensor only has 5 wires but you need to have all 6 wires on the other side of the plug. The 6th pin that has no wire on the sensor side is for the calibration resistor that is inside the plug.

Yes, the "find devices" tool is the CAN bridge that is used for re-programing, you dont need it. So what is the actual issue - is the Lambda not working? Have you set Lambda 1 in the analog menu to "Link CAN"? What does the Lambda 1 status runtime show?

Correct. Another option to look at is VW 0986221015. These are a 6 cyl wasted spark coil with ignitor built in, so no need for an external ignitor. You can often get the whole coil for less than the cost of an ignitor.

Ok so that means the ECU is switching the main relay on correctly. So since it has +12V on the correct pin, it must be a bad ground that is preventing it from powering up. I am not sure which pin/s are the main grounds, but you could try connecting pin 18 directly to ground with a small jumper wire or similar and see if the ECU then connects.

Most igniters will current limit at about 7A. So if they don’t happen to fry themselves straight away then you will only have about 3.5A available to charge each coil, it’s going to be a very weak spark.

No, a single channel is only capable of driving a single coil. You could use a 3 channel ignitor if you had 3 "dual post" coils, but not 6 individual coils.

Why its saying what? You shouldnt even use the "Find devices tool", as I say it is only used to re-program the CAN lambdas.

Proper CAN bus structure is easiest to describe as a "daisy chain". So you start at one device, go to the next, then from the 2nd device to the next, etc. The first and the last device have to have terminating resistors. The ECU has a permanent terminating resistor built-in and the dash has a terminating resistor built-in that can be turned on/off in the software, so it is easiest to have one of these at each end of the bus and the Lambda in the middle. So two wires from ECU down to the lambda, then another two wires from the lambda back to the dash. If you use small wires you can just crimp two wires into a single pin at the lambda connector to save having to do a splice or whatever. Sorry for the rough drawing but hopefully gives you the idea:

There is still no MAP sensor set up in that tune and it is not working in your log. Please check it on the screen next time before wasting time with a log etc. It should be clear when it is working, it wont be just a static number that doesnt change, it will vary with RPM and throttle.

please attach a log of the idle problem and the rev limit for help.

It was already set up and working in the E46 map I gave you months ago. The Mini wheels speeds are exactly the same.

Ignition is stable and throttle is stable so that suggests a fuel issue. You have no MAP sensor assigned for a start. It should be on AN Volt 9. So that is the first thing to fix. Next your VE table is all messed up - what happened to the one I put in? Then get your lambda working and adjust the VE until the lambda is somewhere close to target.

You can get the TFI distributor with 4, 6 & 8 teeth - so provided you have the 6 tooth one it will work as a trigger. The BA coils are dont have ignitors built in so you will need a separate external ignitor to run those - most likely two x 3 channel modules.

We havent added the CAN bridge yet, it will be in the next release. You only need it if you are using more than one CAN lambda and need to reprogram them for different cylinders.

Having two edges occur where the ecu doesn’t expect them is likely the cause of your trigger error and limit.

I have seen before a similar case when changing from Evo trigger mode, some part of the trigger 1 settings didnt initialise properly. Try this: Set trigger mode to say "Subaru V1-6" - this will overwrite all trigger settings as it is reluctor. Do a store and power cycle. Once powered back up, then change the triggermode back to the correct setup as you have it in your screenshot above. Let us know if that solves it.

Why do you need to know how the pins are numbered? The pic shows the keys and lock on the housing so you know which way it is facing and the left pin is ground and the right pin is signal.

You may be able to get the tacho working by wiring an aux output to the old tacho wire that went to the ignitor.

Im not sure what you are referring to here. If you look in the ecu settings menu you will see there is not even a knock control menu. The "digital knock feedback" function in digital inputs is for the old "G4 Knockblock" which was a standalone knock processing box, it still wouldnt do anything with an Atom though as you have no access to any knock control functionality. DI means "Digital input", this is an on/off type signal or sometimes a frequency. Typically DI's are used for something like a high/low boost switch or clutch switch for two-step etc. Not much you can do with it for engine protection. Sensors that are used for engine protection are typically pressure or temp sensors connected to analog inputs.