Adamw

Yes, if adding fuel via injector cleaner didnt help (assuming it is a hydrocarbon product) then that would suggest there is either no spark, or the spark is at the wrong time. So get a timing light on it is the next step.

To confirm Vaughan's comment, the lockouts just control the point at which closed loop control takes over. Outside of the lockouts the idle valve will be in open loop mode and will just follow whatever is in the base position table. The help file explains how most of these functions work.

No, VE is volumetric efficiency. This is how much volume of air you can fit in the cylinder. Boost doesnt change the volume, it only changes the density. Boost is already part of the air mass calculation in the background provided you have the equation load source set to "Load=MAP".

Can you attach the tune also. I dont see much wrong in your most recent log, It looks like you may need to increase master fuel a bit but most of the basics that are needed to run are working. Have you verified timing with a timing light? Have you tried using ether starter spray to confirm if it is a lack of fuel or not?

Which one is fitted to the engine? How many teeth does it have? Is it a VR sensor or Hall effect? Are you going to run a cam sensor as well? If so what type? The Atom doesnt have a MAP sensor built-in, only the Monsoon does. So you have a factory AE86 MAP sensor?

Something is wrong with your trigger, it looks like maybe someone has cut a tooth off trigger 2. You should see 2 trigger 2 teeth for every 4 trigger 1 teeth. But your triggerscope only has 1 trig 2 tooth for every 4 trigger 1 teeth. Your scope: Correct Evo1-6 pattern:

Set up should look like this:

The E36 plug-in is designed for the stock BMW dumb coils though, it has ignitors built-in inside the ECU.

What sensor is this cal for? It looks like possibly a badly calibrated GM curve?

Its not happy with the trigger for some reason, you can see RPM bouncing from 220 to zero regularly. Can you do a triggerscope and attach it. Oh, and attach the tune also.

Try this. 26JUN2020_AD W GBtemp.pclr BRIO RALLY MXS Strada LINK FURY 3MO GB Temp.zconfig

Yes it should be pretty clear once you have the ecu in front of you and read the manual. If not post here and one of us will answer any questions that pop up.

So does one sensor actually work? Because your test doesnt actually prove it is the sensor that is faulty - you could just have the pinout wrong in both plugs or 5V missing etc.

That will depend on how far off 20 deg the real temperature was, but probably wont have a large imp[act.

What is the trigger wheel? What idle valve? Does it have a MAP sensor connected? What type?

Can you attach a triggerscope as well.

It is mostly your idle base position hasnt been tuned. The idle base position currently has numbers in it about 1% less than what it requires to idle. So try the attached file, I have increased the idle base position a bit and I have turned on idle ignition control which should help and will get rid of that hunting you have in some places. It may still need more work but it is closer. E-Thrttlworkingbasemap62620 Idle tweaks.pclr

You dont need an email, you want it so anyone on the fourm can view/help. In google drive, right click on file, "get shareable link", make sure the restricted option is set to "anyone with link". Past the link here. In onedrive, right click on file, choose share, set "anyone with link can edit", then copy link down the bottom.

Can you share the log file via google drive/onedrive etc.

No, you wont be able to use the 944 flywheel trigger for sequential with a cam sensor. The stock system has two sensors on the flywheel, one that senses every starter tooth and another that sees a single tooth once per rev. Because they are both on the flywheel the mechanical relationship between them is fixed. The reason you cant swap to a cam sensor for the single sync tooth is there will be too much mechanical play between the crank and cam teeth. With 132 teeth that is only 2.7deg between teeth. So you only can have about +/-1.5deg "back lash" in all the cam drive system before the cam tooth would occur at a different crank tooth count. For sequential you will need to change to something more conventional. I believe there are a few companies that offer 36-1 crank wheel kits for the 944. Also, from experience, you need to make sure the flywheel teeth are in perfect condition all the way around before getting too committed. I have seen a few guys struggle with these over the years and it has always been due to a patch(s) of worn teeth on the flywheel.

Below is the set-up from a 12V VR6. Offset will probably be around -80 or +280.

Your datasheet for the sensors above shows that the pressure sensor will never output less than 0.5V. So if the ECU is telling you "Analog X is at ground" (which is actually 0V), then you have a wiring problem.

No, it just means I have never seen them. As I stated before, leave it there, the EVO's have nasty ignition noise and you need every precaution to keep it at an acceptable level.

I have never seen one of those on an evo, but yes, if it is a factory part I would leave it there. That is most likely a suppressor on the power supply to the coils, it reduces EMI so is good to have - not only for your radio listening pleasure, but for the ecu and related electronics too.

Dos it have a stock CAS? The RPM looks very low and intermitant in the log. Battery looks quite flat too though so difficult to tell if it is a trigger problem or just a flat battery. Have you tried spraying ether into the intake? - This is often a quick way to tell if you have a fuel or spark problem.