Adamw

Its definitely important to check rotor phasing but that may not mean you need to adjust anything - just do a static check first. Do just as Brad's post above suggests, manually turn the crank to 20BTDC, pull the dizzy cap off and check the rotor is nicely centered under a post. If it already is then no need to adjust anything. If it isnt, then rotate the distributor body until it is, lock it up, then start it again and adjust the trigger offset so that the timing light matches ecu commanded timing.

Did the ST185 actually have a factory fitted manifold air temp sensor? I thought they only had an airbox temp sensor? Most of the Denso temp sensors use the std bosch curve. Can you pull the sensor out and measure its resistance when in a room at about 20 or 25deg C, that may give us a clue what curve it matches.

Ok you dont show all the info that is needed but a couple of things I can see: In the ECU config you have both RPM and gear set up in the same stream. But in the ecumaster config you have the RPM and gear set up on different ID's, 3E8 & 3EB. You dont show what ID you have set in the Link ecu but assuming you are using 1000, then both the RPM and Gear ID's in the ecumaster should be set to the same 3E8. In the ecumaster settings, the Gear byte position should be 2. And make sure you check the bit rates to match. You have the ecu set to 1Mbit, but I cant see what the gear display is set to.

You've got normalise ratio turned off when doing the calibration right?

I dont really see any suggestion there is a problem in your log. The only trigger error logged was when the engine stalled at the 20sec mark. The noise on the RPM trace looks typical for a cam attached trigger. The tacho bouncing around when on the rev limit is because you are using and ignition cut limiter, the factory tacho is driven off the coil so if you cut sparks to the coil then you are cutting the signal to your tacho too. The factory ECU uses fuel cut so you wont see this effect.

The part number for our CANF plug is AU-06BFFA-LL7001. Over here you can just buy them at the local Jaycar electronics store but I dont know what you have in Hungary. Places like Mouser, Digikey, RS Components etc usually have it. I would think most Link dealers would have one floating around too.

Sorry I missed your last reply. It appears to me that the BAP reading 100Kpa looks quite realistic assuming you live near or slightly above sea level. The displayed MAP value of 107Kpa for 1.64V is dead on GM's quoted curve so the ECU is interpreting that voltage correctly. However, the MAP sensor reading 107Kpa with the engine off would only be correct if you live ~500M below sea level, which there are not many places like that on earth. So I tend to believe the BAP is probably reading correct which would suggest both MAP sensors are reading wrong. I can give you a custom cal to fudge the MAP to make it match the BAP if you like but if they are already reading 7KPa/1psi out at atmospheric pressure do you really want to trust them at say 30psi?

Dave beat me to it but I was just about done with a similar reply. As far as I have seen only nissans with a distributor use the single wide slot triggerdisc like you show in your pic (early SR20, RB30, and a couple of others). So the engines that have a distributor can start up fast since the ecu doesnt need to know the correct cylinder - the coil just sparks at every inner slot and the distributor will always send the spark to the correct cylinder. The injectors just fire in batch mode until it syncs so they can fire a spark as soon as the first inner slot is seen. As far as I can see on google the TB48 is coil on plug and the factory CAS should already have the trigger wheel with different sized windows? So that should be able to sync within 120deg without "remembering" the shut down engine position. With the G4X if you use the trigger disc with different sized windows and set trigger mode to "Nissan 360 Opto" then the ecu will sync as soon as it sees the first inner window (i.e. a 6cyl will sync within 120deg crank revolution).

Here is a quick video V series Inj Test.mp4

Most of the basics are working in that log so it would be a good idea to try the injector test and ignition test to confirm your injectors are clicking and you have spark. Even though RPM is reading mostly right, there is one big spike at the start of cranking and trigger errors are clocking up. So that may still indicate there is potentially a trigger issue too. You would really need an oscilloscope to confirm that so start with the injector/ign test first. Also pull a plug out and make sure it is sparking when cranking.

This video is for a G4+ but you will find the procedure is much the same in the Vipec. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

It is not even reaching the launch limit. I suspect with 50deg retard and 50% of the fuel removed the engine isnt making enough torque to even reach the launch limit. Zero out the fuel trim table for a start. Maybe back the retard off to half the values you have as well. Why are you using fuel cut? Even with launch control working well you are never going to produce high exhaust energy when using fuel cut so boost build will be slow.

There are maps for both the single vvt and dual/quad vvt 350Z already in PC Link. If you mean for the HR engine then im not sure we do but I can give you some guidance.

Yes, RPM will confirm if the problem is related to triggers or not. If you have RPM then I would suggest doing a short log of it cranking and attach it here so we can see if there are any other clues. Yes there are injector and ignition test functions in the software.

No, I think it needs to be improved a little further, I dont like that oscilation you have on opening (one oscilation is normal but you have 2 or 3). Generally I dont like to see the error accumulator go above 10% with heavy throttle use. Im not sure which factor is causing it so you will have to experiment adjusting one at a time.

The idle gains look ok but normally I have it higher than that - I find D is usually not wanted and any D usually just makes the idle less smooth for me. In every car I have done so far I have found best idle control and anti-stall properties with P around 1.0-2.0 and D= 0. Also, I would usually have the ignition idle target down around 10deg with the max clamp at 25 or 30 so you've got more opportunity for a larger torque increase when needed. Your knock gains do not look correct to me, I suspect you may have a single wire resonant type sensor which outputs a much higher voltage than the more common types and usually dont work well - many toyotas for instance. With the gains so low you will probably find at high load the knock input max voltage will be reached so the signal will start clipping. If not then it should be fine but that's what I normally see when the gains are so low.

Yes, mixture map can be used from road logs. Set up a Transient filter Eng speed < 250rpm/sec and another with TP<5/sec will get rid of a lot of the inconsistent data. Here's a video I done for someone else earlier with some further info: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPszz5hTxJ8ec0MitL?e=2JbDVh

No, those engines have a reluctor (VR) sensor on the crank so they are not powered - they generate their own voltage when the teeth move past the sensor. The cam sensor is probably hall effect so it will likely be powered (12V) on one pin and often a 5V pull up on another. Does the ECU power up (laptop connect)? Do you get RPM displayed in the software when cranking?

The ground wires on the Link looms are 18awg, 120°C rated, so will handle about 15A each. Obviously my 60A example was stating the worst case example so that you or anyone else that reads this post in future has good information to base their decisions on. It would be very rare in real life to ever have a scenario where every output is running at 100% DC all at the same time but with power wiring it is important to consider what you have connected, the maximum DC/loads, the wire lengths, the insulation temperature rating and the amount of voltage drop that you consider is acceptable. I have seen many fails in my time where the installer has assumed because the ECU works fine with a 5A fuse that they only need a ground capable of 5A. All ground pins are connected internally to the same ground plane so I cant think of any electrical theory reason to do so, I suspect this is more just a statement that was made to encourage installers not to take shortcuts on arguably the most important wires.

Just adjust it until it runs the best, you can do it live while it is running. 7ms would be typical for about 1000cc injectors. You will probably end up more like 17ms for 440cc.

I havent used exactly that throttle, but for the similar 74mm I have P=7.0, I=0.137, D=30. Frequency 500Hz.

I think it would be best to stay wasted spark as this particular ECU is a bit short on spare IO. Ign 3 & 4 are used for the fan relays originally. Are your heads AVCS on both intake and exhaust?

It should be ok through a single pin provided it can handle the current with a good safety margin above steady state to allow for in-rush and minimal voltage drop etc. An Xtreme for instance, 10 aux outputs capable of 2A each, 8 inj drives capable of 5A each = 60A total ground current fully loaded = unlikely to work through a single ground pin... However if you only have 4 x injectors that pull 1A each and a few auxes pulling 0.5A then a single ground pin would be fine.

Aux 4 "Tacho" is the output to the factory RPM gauge on your dash, it is nothing to do with vehicle speed. Im not sure if the OBD2 vehicle speed uses driven or non-driven wheel speed, so make sure you have both defined in the speed sources menu as per my example below. Also check that your LR wheel speed is reporting real speed in PC Link when the car is moving.

There is no native auto trans control functionality built-in to the G4+ firmware. I know of some users that have done some basic trans control using the generic tools such as GP PWM, GP Output, virtual auxes and timers etc, but whether this is relevant to you will depend on many other factors - how complicated the trans is, whether it needs PWM and/or line pressure control, how complex the solenoid logic is etc.