Adamw

Set the wastegate DC table to whatever it needs to achieve the target boost in open loop. From your log it looks like 1% DC changes boost by about 5-7Kpa, so you are going to need quite small P. Try 0.1 initially. If you get overshoot then increase D, you may need top reduce stage 1 duty also. Do us another log with some of those changes so I have a feel for what direction to head.

Have a watch of this: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPs2lkrwpgggRX9CiX?e=mfpBlD

Did it have a hi/low boost switch connected to DI6? In your tune it looks like it has been set up for two boost levels switched by DI6, but there is nothing assigned to DI6. In your log it shows DI6 was "on" which means it was using the high boost map and that high boost DC table doesnt look well set up.

I said reduce, not increase. Try something like 20 or 30%.

Attach the tune please. Has the DC table been tuned in openloop first? It looks like in your pics above you need about 20%DC for 220Kpa but you have 14% in one table and 16 in the other.

It looks like the 50% minimum cut that you have set is too much, the ecu is reducing the cut all the way down to 50% but the RPM continues to fall below the laucnh RPM. So reduce this start cut setting.

Set the aux that is connected to the low speed relay to "engine fan" and set your temp (70). Set the 2nd aux that is connected to the high speed relay to "AirCon Fan", and set its temperature (90). This output will turn on whenever the AC is on or if the temp goes above 90. Aux 3 (low speed) & Aux 4 (Hi speed) used for this example:

Put your cam aux status on one axis of the knock target table. In my experience the 2ZZ is very prone to knock on the low cam but not really needed on the high cam.

Ecu interface config file attached. This covers the 15 most common channels from the ECU "Generic Dash 2" stream. You may need to be on the latest PC Link & Firmware to find the generic dash 2 stream. The channel translations are as per the dash2pro article in the help file - some of them are a bit odd as Race tech has very limited channel names - for instance gear position is called "Fuel cut #8" or similar. Link Generic Dash 2.CCF

You can usually just install the new PC with all the default locations set and it will overwrite the older version. If you have made a custom layout but not renamed it (ie. its still called "DefaultLayout.llfx) then make a back up copy of that before installing as the new default will overwrite it. The new version has much nicer default layouts anyhow. When you have the new PC link installed then connect to your ecu and update firmware if you wish.

@Simon may be able to offer a suggestion.

But the DASH 2 doesnt even have CAN? Your screenshot above shows you are using the Dash2Pro software (Dash 2 doesnt have the CAN or Logging buttons etc). So what device do you have? For a Dash 2 you will need either a new DL1 with CAN built-in connected to it or one of their ECU interfaces.

You will most likely have to change to fuel cut if you dont want back fires at all. Often with ignition cut you can reduce the backfire effect by adding fuel (I know this defies logic), so if you really want to stick with ign cut, then turn on fuel trim, add about 15-20%. Also, take your limit range up to about 300 and lower your start cut will make it a more gentle limit.

No, just start the thing up and adjust the master while it is idling until it runs best. I have no idea what size injectors where in our test car that the base map came from. As a very rough guide, a 2L car with 500cc injectors will usually want a master around 14-17.

Do you mean the "nismo console meter"? I thought they had their own set of sensors? I dont think the factory ecu had a map sensor so the boost gauge must have its own sensor.

Yes, Delphi AC IAT is what you want.

You are right, I would have expected like you that AP should be used as the lockout when there is E-throttle in the system - even if the idle control is not via DBW. I just tested on the bench and found the same as you. So I suspect this is an oversight that no one has noticed before. I will get it logged as an issue to get it on the list of things to look at. Not likely to be such a major change added in G4+. If it was requested enough in G4X it might be considered but I havent personally come across a need for it yet, I have always been able to get adequate control with just the 1 set of PID and fixed feed forward.

Correct, thats how I would expect it to work. The switch point would be 60kpa and 1500RPM. 59.9kpa and 1499RPM would be off. 60.0Kpa and/or 1500RPM would be on.

If you have no injection or spark then it sounds more like you have a trigger issue. Do you have valid RPM in the software or on the hand controller when you are cranking?

Yes, the outer ring is the "crank" trigger - effectively 2 teeth per crank rev. The inner ring is used to detect "phase". Originally the inner ring has one short "tooth" and one long tooth, this just allows the ecu to detect phase within 1 engine rev rather than two revs if it only had a single slot. I suspect the haltech probably didnt support the factory Evo type trigger so by covering up one of the phase slots they have made it into a more basic "1 tooth per TDC" type trigger pattern. Does it still not go? Will need a fresh log if so.

Freezing is generally a comms drop out, often caused by extreme electrical noise. Do you have resistor spark plugs fitted? There are some changes to comms in the next software release which is coming soon that may help it recover quicker when comms is lost. I think the engineers have got to the bottom of that now, they found some laptops would put the graphics cards into low power mode whenever not connected to AC power which made everything feel very slow. In the next release they have taken a lot of load away from the graphics card so you should see a big improvement.

What are you trying to do? All of the discrepancies that this CAN stream was used to correct have been fixed in the Aim firmware or the new MXS stream in the ecu.

No, the digital inputs are fairly flexable. Connect one side of the switch to ground or 12V (either will do), connect the other side to the DI. If the switch is connected to ground then turn the pull-up on in the DI settings, if it is connected to 12V turn the pull-up off.

Looking at these 2 base maps I would say the ST185 base map was probably from a car that had injectors around that size anyway. The ST205 map looks like it is probably from a car that had more like 1000cc. So, use the ST185 map, adjust the master fuel number up or down until it runs best, that should be about all you need to do.

Yes in modelled mode fuel temp (or ethanol temp if a flex sensor is configured) is used as along with fuel density temp coeff to calculate the change in fuel density due to temp.